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Sealing the heat exchangers to the mouth.
I've got the Godspeed radiator, BEGI's scooper and top plate. There is still a lot of room around the heat exchangers on the sides. What materials are people using to seal this up? ABS? Aluminum sheet? Foam? Something flexible?
I've got every possible option intact on my 94, AC + PS, so there's a whole lot of crap in the way, pipes, tubes, wires, etc. They make this look like a reasonbly tough job. With all the track days I run I've gotta do it though. Looking for any advice from those that have done it before. Hustler? Johndoe? Savington? Others? |
I used some of that black plastic stuff you heat gun to get it to take a shape. It works well but not incredible. I've seen foam rubber, perhaps that's the way to go. I always end up finishing my gaps with aluminum tape.
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my plastic pieces are ghetto as fuck. I need to redo it and seal it properly but the roll from BSR is not a bad deal and although it won't be the most gorgeous shit you've seen in your life, it will work. Get extra long rivets and washers for assembly.
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I would recommend ABS, what little work I have done with it suggests that it is durable and easy to form with a heat gun.
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Aluminum sheet with foam rubber gaskets.
- L |
Any pics of the shrouding anyone has done?
I don't care too much about appearance as long as it doesn't look bad when the cars driving down the road. With all the BS around my exhangers aluminum likely isn't an option. Too damn many lines and hoses to get around. Something ABS is more likely for me. How flexible can the material be and still keep the air going where it needs to? That BSR stuff in the roll is pretty flexible I would think. 1/8 " abs is pretty rigid but has some give and of coarse you have the heat gun option. Overkill that thick or not enough? Any way I look at it lots of foam or metal tape is likely to come into play. |
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God it would be nice to have that much room in there! Thanks for the pics though. Looks like pretty flexible stuff is Ok as long as it fastened well. That's some quality zip tie work there! That'd sure make my life easier.
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Luckily, the GV bumper is actually quite well off with this. Although there are a couple small spots where the IC piping is that are less covered, but I took care of most of that using the inner fender liners that I took out of the car. I plan on getting some weather stripping to finish the seal between the bumper and the intercooler...
http://img2.pict.com/9e/a1/d7/a95ac4...00/img4759.jpg |
It really forms well with a heat gun. Without one you're screwed.
I made my first set up out of 'temporary' cardboard and duct tape. It was in great shape two weeks later when I went to plastic. Without water you could probably run it for a month, at least it'll let you know wha tyou're doing before you switch over. 38 pics: AbeFM : photos : Radiator Shroud Fitting |
Im gonna make one of these out of thin aluminum (.040-.0625) and seal it with some sort of foam tape. Ill prob have it connect to the front bumper because mines loose and flimsy a headless chicken. Sounds like another DIY write up :giggle:
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+10,000,000
GOD DAMNIT, I should've done this first thing. Sealing the mouth and especially the sides is WIN. Water never went above 110C and oil never above 120C. I was easily seeing 130C water/oil before. Only the ductaping to the bottom of the rad is letting go, so I'll find something else for that. See my thread for details (below sig). |
Sealing has shocked me twice: Once, when I did it, and my temps were magically low, all the time. The second time, when I took it off, and my temps are now high, all the time. :-)
The aluminum tape works, but not great. Straps, maybe? |
Originally Posted by AbeFM
(Post 449810)
Sealing has shocked me twice: Once, when I did it, and my temps were magically low, all the time. The second time, when I took it off, and my temps are now high, all the time.
Running hot without sealing, running cool with seals then running hot again without is simply anecdotal evidence. I'm sorry but we need more scientific proof than this! Where's the magnahelic gauge readings? The IR temps of various surfaces? Where's that sarcasm font we need? Sealing off the heat exchangers should be the first step for cooling issues instead of the last. I imagine there are a lot of people here, not tracking the cars, that really wouldn't need a big aluminum radiator or coolant reroute if they'd done this first. |
Originally Posted by AbeFM
(Post 449810)
The aluminum tape works, but not great. Straps, maybe?
Originally Posted by cueball1
(Post 449819)
I imagine there are a lot of people here, not tracking the cars, that really wouldn't need a big aluminum radiator or coolant reroute if they'd done this first.
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Originally Posted by Spookyfish
(Post 449932)
True, but that wasn't the tendency around here. It was the american way: more, bigger,larger.
Don't post drunk, folks. The alum seems to stay in place, hard to tell what it does while moving. I have a webcam but haven't filmed underhooh with it yet. |
Overheating Solution? - Page 3 - MX-5 Miata Forum
Originally Posted by Triple88A
(Post 4056816)
Lets be real here, how much higher pressure does it build in comparison to the temperature at the firewall? 1/10th of a pound? How much extra hp can you gain from putting your intake there so it sucks a tiny bit higher pressure compared to the temperature? Why do the miata intakes that actually make noticeable difference require you to cut a hole in the firewall and suck in the cold air from the windshield wiper arms area if the higher pressure before the firewall is so much better? If you want to keep that useless pressure so much then cut holes in the middle of the hood so all the stuff from the radiator can exit before hitting the engine. It will work however it will only help the radiator, not the engine. Cutting holes in the hood will increase air flow throughout the the entire engine bay allowing the front to take in more air by reducing pressure in the rear. The windshield creating a "wall" is much lower than a rubber tight seal the hood creates against the firewall.
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Originally Posted by Spookyfish
(Post 449932)
I used the black all weather version, but the bottom of the rad gets hot so it lets go. I will make use of the mounting tabs on the bottom rear of the rad.
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t25084-8/#post460115 Can't believe how extremely well this works. On track, before with no ducting I would overheat to 130C within 4 hotlaps, now I can drive forever and not see above 100C. Oil not above 120C. Last event, the ducting would come loose at the bottom of the radiator and temp would climb to 110C. Amazing stuff. |
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