Hey guys, can I just cut a tooth off of the SuperMiata 36-1 wheel to make it a 36-2 wheel? Unfortunately only a 36-2 timing wheel will work with Hydra 2.7 at this point and I don't want to undo all of my wiring work I did today to revert to CAS only operation.

 

Maybe. Whats the pattern on the FM 36-2 wheel?

 

As far as I can tell, it has one less tooth (IE, two teeth missing next to one another) instead of just one.

 

I spoke with both Emilio and Jeremy today and got clarification; sounds like I should be able to remove a tooth on either side of the missing tooth and adjust timing reference angle accordingly.

 

Managed to remove the tooth clockwise of the original missing tooth. I ended up using a 1" or so wheel and an air grinder to score the tooth and break it off with a pliers. Worked a lot better than I thought it would. The idle is AMAZING now, MUCH smoother than before. I might actually be able to cut fuel to a reasonable level now.

 

When setting timing I should use the mark to the left when looking at the front of the balancer, right? The two notches should be at 10* and TDC if I recall correctly. I might be imagining it, but it feels like I lost power after this changeover.

Could I have damaged something by idling for about 5-10 minutes total over 2 days with the idle being adjusted from 25* retarded to TDC and finally 10* btdc? AFR was at least 14:1 during this entire process and it was all idle, no driving. I'm going to check my plugs as they may have fouled or something and check compression as well when I get home.

Edit; Vacuum is reading low (12-14in compared to previously 17-19), though that may be because I adjusted idle speed. I'll adjust it back up and find out later.

 

Figured it out; reverting a setting on the ECU for a fueling map also reverted the timing setting retarding it to 2* btdc. Not exactly something very intelligent of a design, though this ECU is rather backwards in a lot of ways.