to swap or not to swap
I keep on switching back and forth between keeping my good compression 1.6 with not a lot of miles, and wanting a 1.8 for better lower end torque and better reliability; or, if I ever wanted to build it or put a 99 head on it.
-what does decent condition 1.8 go for on average, how about one with a 99 head? -how much does the total swap cost on average? -is it really worth it if I plan on not hitting anywhere above 250whp? My next investment over the next couple of days will be an ms, which I undersand if it is built for my 90 harness will work with a 1.8 no problems Assuming I will use the same harness for the swap. |
there is no replacement for displacement!
a whole whopping .2L's of it... |
I just gained .4 Liters of displacement, keeping the same compression ratio. The difference is night and day!
DO IT! Cost of a 1.8? Don't know. The 99 head is highly recommended. It flows much better in stock form than even a ported 94-97 head. My cost to swap was $180, plus the cost of the motor. It can be done for much less. I bought a used FM swap kit, and am using a 1.6L clutch and flywheel. You could even use the 1.8 throttle body if you'll be controlling idle with MS. Just get a pigtail for the IAC and TPS sensor. The amount of low end torque you gain with the increased displacement = Instaspool for the smaller turbos. |
Id personally just boost the 1.6 you have, since its good compression/low miles. If it were a blown 1.6 id say go 1.8.
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I went from 1.6 to 1.8 when I blew up my 1.6. I was concerned about losing a bunch of $$ by not being able to reuse a bunch of my stuff, but the difference in power between the 1.6 and 1.8 was really noticeable. Definitely do the 1.8
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i'm really starting to lean towards the 1.8... if i find one for a good price and relatively locally i think i will jump on it and sell my good condition 1.6. of course i say this now, tomorrow i will "decide" to 1.6 it lol.
i'm still very open to all input |
Do the 1.8L swap I did it after my second motor popped and it was the best thing I ever did. I got the FM swap kit and I picked up a used motor and trans with 65K at the junk yard for $300 so a grand total of $500 and I was off. I got the motor and trans from Crazy Rays you have to pull it your self and the car had an brand new exeedt clutch in it so all was good there.
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Originally Posted by Sean
(Post 554111)
Do the 1.8L swap I did it after my second motor popped and it was the best thing I ever did. I got the FM swap kit and I picked up a used motor and trans with 65K at the junk yard for $300 so a grand total of $500 and I was off. I got the motor and trans from Crazy Rays you have to pull it your self and the car had an brand new exeedt clutch in it so all was good there.
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he 99 head is highly recommended. It flows much better in stock form than even a ported 94-97 head.
Agreed with the above...Also the bigger disp. it can't be beaten easily (read cheap).... Go for it! |
Put in a 2.0L...FE3.
I still kick myself for not taking the plunge when I had the means to do so. |
Just as a basis... I sold a '94 longblock this weekend for $300 (125K, 180 compression across the board) and a '99 head a few months back for $450.
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Originally Posted by gospeed81
(Post 554969)
Put in a 2.0L...FE3.
I still kick myself for not taking the plunge when I had the means to do so.
Originally Posted by thagr81 us
(Post 554975)
Just as a basis... I sold a '94 longblock this weekend for $300 (125K, 180 compression across the board) and a '99 head a few months back for $450.
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Originally Posted by frostyllama
(Post 554979)
emissions, otherwise the decision would have been made by now. no way to get an exhaust manifold that doesn't look modified. and for those of us who don't live in california the fe3 has "high port runners" just like the 99+ heads... search "fe3 and handling" for proof.
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Heat sheild or wrap FTW. Most inspectors are clueless anyway. As long as they can look at the little diagram and see the little tubes and hoses hooked up they are fine.
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I'm only saying this because I now know this about myself having been there. And yes I live in an emissions county, although I understand CA inspections are different. Regardless, if you wanted it bad enough you could do the work to make it look OEM. So here goes:
You're a pussy if you don't swap an FE3 in there. That was purely for your benefit, nothing personal. |
Originally Posted by Sparetire
(Post 555575)
Heat sheild or wrap FTW. Most inspectors are clueless anyway. As long as they can look at the little diagram and see the little tubes and hoses hooked up they are fine.
Originally Posted by gospeed81
(Post 555625)
I'm only saying this because I now know this about myself having been there. And yes I live in an emissions county, although I understand CA inspections are different. Regardless, if you wanted it bad enough you could do the work to make it look OEM. So here goes:
You're a pussy if you don't swap an FE3 in there. That was purely for your benefit, nothing personal. |
Originally Posted by frostyllama
(Post 555667)
, despite my better judgment, i'm still thinking about it.
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At the moment, given how much I've spent building up a 1.8 vs what it would have cost to freshen my still running 1.6 on the cheap, I'd vote keep the 1.6. My outcome is going to be great with the 1.8/9 2000 head, but the expense has been very large.
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Originally Posted by webby459
(Post 555674)
At the moment, given how much I've spent building up a 1.8 vs what it would have cost to freshen my still running 1.6 on the cheap, I'd vote keep the 1.6. My outcome is going to be great with the 1.8/9 2000 head, but the expense has been very large.
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Haven't driven it yet, that is correct.
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