I have to replace oil in my turbocharged NA.
I thought to go for fully synthetic.

Is it a good idea?
No harm can be made, right?
What mark do I need? (mind you that i'm living in hot climate, although in the next 3 month it's gona be a pleasant weather).

The brand that I like very much is a German Liqui Moly (I think it’s calles Lubro Moly in USA).
So this what I planed to get.
http://www.liqui-moly.de/web/lmhomee...index_produkte

 

Never heard of it. Why not just get some Mobil 1?

 

The lousiest synthetic oils are about on par with the best dino oils. In a turbocharged car, it only makes sense, as the oil is living in a harsher environment.

 

i prefer royal purple. the liqui molly should be ok if you have problems then just try something else.

 

http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/s.../oil-life.html

read this. He added some oil when it was consumed, but consumption was the same for both mobile 1 and amsoil. I run M1 and change filters every 4k, oil every 8k, unless I get valve noise sooner, which I don't. My car is naturally aspirated though. Valve noise is a good indication that oil is either working outside its performance range/needs to be changed.

 

I noticed that when I switched to Synthetic (M1) my engine developed a few drips at some of the seals. Has anyone noticed this after switching? It did not deter me from using the synthetic, however.

 

If your motor has run dino oils it's whole life and you just quickly switch to synthetic I've seen many motors start to leak the syn oil out of the front and rear main seals. The syn oil molecules are smaller and can get out much easier than the dino oils. This may or may not get better with time, usually not though. I've not had this problem on the miata but many people have to swap their seals to fix the leaking problem.

 

My car ran dino oil for the first ~80k miles before switching to synthetic. No leaks beyond what were already there.

 

I guess it just depends on the individual motor.

 

I really doubt synthetic would ever cause leaks. That seems like a bunch of bologna to me.

 

Miata's might not have this problem. Their seals might be made out of a different material and/or have a better seal design than others. This is a frequent problem with Nissan KA24 motors as well as some ford 3.0 V6s Those are the only motors i've seen that have had a problem swapping from dino to synthetic. I say go for it and run synthetic because that's what I've done with all my vehicles that I've purchased used.

 

Do one oil change with Valvoline Maxlife first. Its a synthetic blend(even though it does not say it on the bottle) with a bit higher detergent and some nice seal conditioners. That should help clean any junk out and give any rubber seals some extra life.

 

I 2nd on Royal Purple. I use their everything Motor,Tranny, and Clutch Fluid. I'm stocked up on their stuff

 

I've had good luck with Mobile Clean High Mileage. Same type of deal: 7500 mile synthetic blend with seal conditioners. After using it in my Ford truck, oil consumption between 4.5k mile changes has been reduced signifcantly (>1 qt vs <.5 qt). It's what I use to top off if in all my vehicles--except the e class) if needed.

 

The reason the M1 leaks is because the engine seals were crutched up with the varnish and coating the dino oil left behind. After the M1 works into the engine, it cleans all that out, and the deterioration of the seals present themselves. Read bobistheoilguy.com for more info. Or run the max life oil which has seal conditioners and added wear protectants.

 

There you go, I love when someone can fill in the gaps and give reason to my madness. Nice site bobistheoilguy.com by the way.