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I lost the tach, speedo, and odometer a few weeks ago after a pull where I had a bunch of wheel hop. I’ve been trying to fix it for the past few hours and I’m at a loss.
Pins and screws on the back of the cluster are good. Ground screws have continuity to the body of the car. Nothing corroded or burnt up. I do have a line that is not continuous if you look at the picture. I don’t think this is it though. It seems to be 12v from warning system that’s fed from room fuse. When my odometer is working, the trip odo resets after ignitions turned off so I think it’s been like this since I bought it.
Fuel, oil pressure, and temp gauges still work. Lights on the cluster still work. Tuner studios reads engine rpm still, just not displaying on my gauge cluster.
Speed sensor seems to be okay. Wires seem solidly connected and harness looks good. I’m guessing this would be the problem anyways because I would think the tach would still work even if speed sensor was bad.
I don’t have access to an nb cluster so I’m not able to swap to see if that’s the issue unfortunately. Any help would be greatly appreciated
I’d wager that fried trace on the cluster board is what gives power to the “microcomputer” that drives the tach and speedometer. Is there anything behind the cluster there that could have short circuited that 12v line to ground and cause it to melt/fry? Strange it wouldn’t have just blown the fuse, unless someone swapped in a higher rated fuse.
I bet if you bridge that broken circuit trace they’ll probably work again. Unless the driver is fried too
I think the driver must be fried. Bridging didn’t work.
There’s nothing obvious that would have shorted it. Meter and room fuse are sized correctly. Neither were blown.
When I originally bought the car, on the test drive I dropped the clutch and gave it gas. There was a lot of wheel hop and after that it threw a code. It ended up disappearing after disconnecting the battery. I can’t remember what the code was but it was in relation to the speed sensor. Maybe it’s that issue again. I can’t remember if anything stopped working but I don’t believe it did.
I have a ms3pro now so it doesn’t throw codes. I wonder if I would have maybe got the same CEL now like I did that one time.
MS probably does. I paid someone to tune it, so I am not very familiar with it. I bought a used cluster, and it turns out that something was wrong with my cluster. Now I have 100k more miles than I used to lol. Kinda sucks but I'm glad it wasn't something worse.