sharkythesharkdogg

That's a pretty good idea, I suppose something like delron/delrin would work? If someone has a spare plastic puck, I'd be happy to give it to the machinist I have nearby.

Dustin1824

iTrader: (2)

I have been doing some searching, but my skills in this area must be lacking, I can't find anything. Can someone point me to a thread with pictures of the VVT actuator taken apart?

Also, I am going to do a timing belt soon, so how do I avoid making this mistake? I definately don't want to deal with this. Just make sure I take off the cover, and not the whole actuator?

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

Not sure if there are any good pictures floating around that have the VVT actuator apart.

At the front of the actuator there are 3 star shaped screws. You unscrew those and it allows you to remove the big bolt that holds the VVT actuator to the cam. There are 4 10mm bolts on the VVT actuator and those are the bolts you do not want to remove. I would also recommend ordering new screws from Mazda for the front plate, as the screws metal is sort of weak and they can strip easily.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

^That.

Just remove the three T25 torx screws holding the zinc plated plate. Remove plate, enjoy access to cam bolt.

The other option is: If RSpeed sends you the wrong cam seals like they did on this car, just don't remove the ******* VVT actuator, because you don't need to unless you're doing cam seals.

Dustin1824

iTrader: (2)

I just looked up a chemical compatibility chart for delrin, it seems to be a bad match for this application. Also, most delrin is only good to 200*F...

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Just order some, in the size you need its like $5/ft.

There's no reason to remove the pulley on a normal timing belt job. If the cam seals arent leaking, dont touch them.

sharkythesharkdogg

My concern wasn't access to materials, it was wondering if it could hold up to the task. It seems it probably wouldn't.

Also, I'd still need a spare OEM puck for dimensions.

Dustin1824

iTrader: (2)

I don't want to do a timing belt without doing the cam and crank seals.

I have a good set of Torx bits that hasn't ever stripped anything yet (I like Torx much more than allen), but I already had the part numbers for those 3 cover bolts as well as the gasket, I don't like to take chances.

Since there are no good pictures, maybe someone should post some? It would be helpful when trying to figure out this actuator that has some people believing in Mazda's witchcraft assembly of this thing. I would like to know how the actuator works, without taking the bastard apart, apparently it's just a coin toss as to whether it will work properly after reassembly

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

Ever seen the inside of an MR2 electric power steering pump? It's a lot like that.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

True, there are other plastics that would work fine though that cost about the same.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Conversely, I dont want to touch cam and crank seals unless they're leaking. They're way more likely to make it to 250k miles without being touched than the ones you install. It would be kind of shitty to have to have to redo the timing job 40k miles from now if one starts leaking randomly, it would be mega ultra shitty to have to re-do the timing job 3 times in the span of a week because you prayed to the wrong mayan god and you cant get new crank seals in properly.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Stupid question from an ignorant bystander, but does it absolutely need to be plastic?

Dustin1824

iTrader: (2)

True, but I don't think I'll have trouble getting the seals in properly, I have the FM intake and exhaust cam seal tools, as well as the front crank seal installer. Also, I'm using Mazda seals, not some ebay junk. I don't want to thread jack, but can someone confirm these work well?

In for aluminum/brass/bronze/stainless/titanium actuator cup thingy.

If its to provide some sealing, maybe a softer metal, in all seriousness...

sharkythesharkdogg

They work well, but it's not simply poor installation that can cause the leak. The seals can wear a small groove into the metal of the crank/cam. So even if you install the seals correctly, if they don't happen to fall back perfectly into that groove it can still seep.

Basically, unless you know the seals are very old or they're already leaking, it's not a crazy idea to leave it until next time. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.


Maybe a sintered bearing material? Porosities for some oil/lubrication.

If concealer sends me the VVT actuator, I'll take it apart and see what I find. I'm pretty sure I remember how it looked when I took that one apart. If anyone has a spare little plastic puck, I'll see about trying to make replacement pucks.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

I've got an actuator in the garage, just not sure I want to take it apart now

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

You should probably NOT take it apart, and should send it to me.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Except its part of a complete BP6D head. I'll sell you the whole head though, I'm not using it and its just taking up space. PM me if you like

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

Ah, i don't really have use for a full head. Head on his car is fine, and i don't feel like losing power by putting it on my car.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

But think of the spoooooooool!

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

It'll probably spool worse because it doesn't flow near as well.