OK, I am in need of your guys infinite miata wisdom again. I just went and bought a timing light from checkers, came home, hooked it up, started the car, went to go check the timing and nothin. I hooked it up to the alternator output and found a good ground. I have heard that some timing lights do not work with the miata ignition system, and I got one that says that it is good with a dis system. The company is innova equusm model #3551. When I got it, it was already opened and if they sold me a junk f-ing timing light, I will be pissed. Also got a vacuum guage hooked up to it today, and the reading was 16" . So, have you guys ever seen a cat cause a loss of vacuum. Usually when I first get a car, I change the cat out immediately, but was going to do it all with the greddy. I think that it is the original cat from 162000 miles ago. Thanks guys.

 

Re: timing light
I assume it's an inductive style, with the clip that goes on spark plug wire #1. I've made two mistakes before with these.
1. there's usually an arrow on the clip, or directions on how the clip should be positioned on the wire. make sure the clip is pointing the right direction.
2. make sure the clip is fully closed, sometimes they'll actually click/lock if you push hard enough

hope this helps,
SamS

 

yes a restrictive cat will give a lower vaccuum reading as the motor will be strugling to breath do yourself a favor and beat out the guts and replace the shell. also check the light on another car if it doesnt work get a refund.

 

Inductive pickups usually use the #1 wire for the signal, then you should just have battery hookup leads. I usually use a spare battery for the power, but have used jumper cables from the back before.

 

Thanks guys, I will give it a try on my girlfriends neon when she gets home from work. I will inspect the timing light also to make sure that it does/doesn't have the clicky thingy on the thingy.

 

I tried it on my gf's car and it did not work on there either, so I returned it came back with a new one, worked perfect. Timing was set at about 24 btdc, so I set it back to 14. Runs so much better now, but the exhaust definately needs to be redone. The cat is clogged as hell I do believe. I can't wait to get the turbo on there and getting the exhaust done up. I am going to go with a 2.5" catback and dp. I have heard a couple of exhausts done up with just a resonator, and they sound real good, so I cannot wait. It still takes it a second to respond to throttle changes in the lower rpm range, and I think that once I get the exhaust changed out with the turbo, it should fix it all. Now just waiting for the turbo kit to get here from prostreetonline, and they are being slow to ship out my order. Damn you prostreetonline. Thanks you guys.

 

like i said a hammer and long peice of steel make for a real high flow cat the efficiency suffers somewhat though

 

+1

 

there is a +12 volt wire in the engine bay, drivers side near the cruise control
it is a blue clip thinger

 

I have decided that until I get the money to just do the whole exhaust to 2.5", I am going to hollow the cat until then. Should help open up some power and solve my little problem. I just got done spending a whole *** ton of money on the greddy and emanage, clutch and other select goodies. Damn, I need to buy one of stripes intercooler kits after I get the exhaust opened up. Anyways, thanks for the help guys and I will post some pics after I get done with the turbo install.

 

Hollowed out cat sounds like ***. I did this because my completely came apart inside. Made my car sound like every fart can wearing civic out there. If only for the SHORT term go for it, otherwise take it to a muffler shop and get either a straight pipe installed or a resonator.