The answer to this question is the answer to making big power on stock motors.

If you like your synthetics I wouldnt reccoment Mobil 1. Rumor has it M1 isn't a TRUE full synthetic anymore, even though the bottle ays it, like several others out there. Google it, look around.

i read that too. what i read is that M1 sued another oil company for saying they were full syn when they were not, M1 lost so it started to do the same thing.

This is the story everyone takes to be the truth

I would say that is the key to making big power on ANY motor really. Or at least getting the very most out of what a motor has to offer.

And the real truth is within the link I posted.

I read about this M1 conspiracy a while back, and decided to look at other oils. Using information gathered from the manufacturer's spec sheets, I put together a little chart tracking what I felt to be certain key properties and comparing them between M1 and the three underdogs. Here's the chart:

http://img34.picoodle.com/img/img34/...sm_222e940.gif

V@ indicates viscosity at the stated temperature. All else being equal, I prefer an oil with the lowest viscosity at low temp (to keep oil pressure manageable first thing on a cold morning) and with the highest viscosity when hot, to maintain good oil pressure when the engines' a blazin.

VI is Viscosity Index. All else being equal, a lower number is supposed to be better, though not even BobIsTheOilGuy seems to say why.

Pour and Flash are pretty self-evident. Lower is better for pour, higher is better for flash.

Of all the oils here, M1 0w40 has the highest viscosity at 100°C except for RedLine 10w40 and Amsoil AMO (both by ~ half a point) and those two have much higher viscosities at 40°.

Here's an interesting sidebar- Amsoil ACD is their diesel-rated 10w40. Its viscosity at 100° is more in line with a w30 oil, and it was only only Amsoil product I looked at which had no data at all on the HTHS 150° test.

I only browsed lightly on that site, and see nowhere where it mentions M1 either still being or not being synthetic. In a couple places it does state the protection will be the same. My point was if you want to use a synthetic be weary of M1, not 'SYTHETIC IS TEH UBER LUBER' and "SYNTHETIC PWNS ALL".

I personally feel that the synthetic oil is more consistant as far as molecule size, and contain less contaminants(which a good oil filter would take care of, but why make it work harder than it has to). However I would like you to take note that I said I personally and that this is just my opinion, everyone is entitled to thier own.

if you really want syn, there is a syn rotella now

Back on subject...

key to big power....T.....................U.................. .N....................E

Back to Subject:

Quoting myself:
It really doesn't take more than a well thought out design (reduce restriction, improve flow), good turbo choice (turbine large enough in both diameter and a/r that can spin fast & free enough, compressor large enough to flow the desired amount within the heat efficiency island), good thermal management (reroute, afrs, IC, etc) and a good tune (no ping, timing in check).

If I wasn't so worried about my stock 1.6L block, I could achieve 300rwhp on pump gas. Seeing 250rwhp at 13psi so far, however, I do worry about my stock internals, so I only boost within reason, keeping it around 200rwtq max.