So I removed the bolt on the L-shaped bracket in front of the starter (right above the engine mount), but now the bracket has shifted downwards and I can't get the dayam sensor in. I can barely move it over to line up, but it's not enough plus the area is sooo tight. I'm thinking about hooking my engine up to a hoist and seeing if that does anything. Any suggestions? Is there any other spots I can put the knock sensor in?

 

try jacking up the pan.and crack loose the other bolts ,so you can try an line it up.

 

I'll try to jack from the oil pan tomorrow.

One of my problems is that I can't reach the other bolts on the starter bracket. I can get a wrench on it, but no room to turn it loose.

 

ratchet wrench.i love them.or a long *** breaker bar.

 

You can remove the bracket at the front of the starter. That's waht I did. I don't think the 1.8 cars even had that bracket.

 

+1 - loosen mount bolts and use jack, that's what I had to do

yep, the starter bracket was ditched on the 1.8s

I've experimented with various locations on the side of the block for the knock sensor, and as low as possible and far back from the front of the engine as possible will reduce the amount of noise the sensor picks up dramatically. Positioned at the front was worst- I suppose it was hearing things like pulley/bearing noises from everything spinning. Higher up gets into valve train noise.

 

What about the stock location that FM uses? PAX side motor mount. I'm installing mine in a couple of days and was planing on using that location.

 

that is the best location I've found (even on the FE)

I tried other places because of my adapter plate arrangement, but wound up there even though it was a major bitch working out. At the FM position (using their adapter bolt mount thing) I get half the noise I did at boss that was about 2" higher- and above the crank.

 

Do you think it matters which side of the engine it goes on? I thought about putting it on the driver's side when I had my turbo/manifold out but decided to wait.

 

I'd put it on the intake side, away from the heat. No moving parts over there either- never know what it's going to "hear" as knock.

 

Will do. Not looking forward to it. Any tips? I assume the easiest way will be from the top? I don't think there is anyway in hell I'll get a torque wrench in there either.

 

do you guys have a pic of exctaly where the fm put there knovk sensor

 

http://www.flyinmiata.com/support/in...stallation.pdf

Page 15

 

Well, because I installed in on the FE block my situation might be different. BUT I could actually get to it through the wheel weel using an extension and u-joint. I can't see anyway to get a torque wrench in there- but all mine are long handle 1/2".

 

Mine is also 1/2" and as long as a breaker bar

12ft/lbs isn't very tight, I assume that the sensor could be damaged if you really tightened the hell out of it.

 

yes- figure I've installed mine about five times now w/o a torque wrench and it still works.

 

Thanks guys! I'm about to install the O2 clamp and try the knock sensor again, I'll take pics for those that don't know where to mount the sensor.

 

Thanks everyone for the suggestions.

I ended up loosening the two mount bolts and jacked the engine up from the tranny (felt safer then oil pan). I also just said "Fawk it!" and removed the L-shaped starter bracket all together. I called the local Mazda dealer parts department and asked for the part monkey's opinion and after he asked his techs, he confirmed that the part is overkill anyways, I should be fine they said. Just in case, I called john from J&S and he said the same thing....so off it goes!!

MUCH easier to line up and install without the bracket in the way....

From the top view


Bottom


Time for the turbo install......

Thanks again everyone!

 

Woot, sensor and J&S works awesome. Took a ride on a sharp hill today and set the sensitivity to high and "retard all cylinders" settings. Took the hill in a higher gear and no ping!