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Old 10-27-2010, 03:51 AM   #1
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Default Troubleshooting/Startup help

Ok guys, long story short--ran out of time before my trip to The Gap, so trying to just get it running well NA for the time being. It will have to endure the drive from NY - FL - NC - NY and of course ripping it up in NC.

Figured I'd start a thread to keep all my questions, thoughts, etc. In one spot, and will just pick up on the build thread once its FI time again.

I plan to leave Tuesday (11/2) morning, so will be doing some late nights. I'll be gathering info during day/at work to use when I'm at my garage with no internet. I'm waiting on my header to arrive in order to really try and start this thing. Also waiting on a radiator and front sway, but I have my old rad I could use just to start the car, and the sway obviously won't prevent either.



Got a '95 chassis with MS & a built motor which I bought 2nd hand with a 00' head. Finding some connections that I need help on, most of which I believe have no home as I've also removed AC and PS. In addition charcoal can has been removed, and seems like PO removed most emissions stuff.

1-see pics of connectors, please advise on where they go or if they are not needed (4 front of motor, 2 back of head)

2-two hard vacuum lines, black, 1 with blue stripe/1 with red...I could've sworn this was to the evap cannister, but not sure now?

3-check out adj cam gears, setting looks ok for NA? Belt look like its sitting too far back on the gears or is it me?

4-coolant line--plug it or run it? if so to where?

5-I remember hearing when deleting either PS/AC, there's a hole that needs to be plugged with a bolt?? I might have crossed info here, but wanna be sure.

6-6ULS + VW Front rotors/stock rears, am I supposed to have centric rings?

7-plug wires in correct orientation? Motor came without them, Hayne's is nice enough to tell me to remove 1 by 1 so I don't misplace, but no more. Found another picture that had this orientation though...?

Sorry, again just trying to create a thread where I can have some help from those that are far more versed than I am. I know the info is out there, but I'm extremely behind schedule AND can't afford the slightest hiccup at this point.

TIA guys
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Old 10-27-2010, 09:52 AM   #2
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Clockwise from your thumb/index finger
1. ??? (Maybe the EVAP purge solenoid that works with the charcoal canister??)
2. Thermoswitch (Water neck) I have a connector similar to this (which was installed by me, not mazda) which connects to my aftermarket intake air temperature sensor.
3. Power Steering Pump
4. Not entirely sure, but looks like the "Fuel pressure regulator solenoid" (FPR Solenoid) control line that assists with hot restarts.

Last edited by fooger03; 10-27-2010 at 10:09 AM.
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Old 10-27-2010, 09:53 AM   #3
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EGR Solenoid
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Old 10-27-2010, 09:54 AM   #4
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O2 Sensor
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Old 10-27-2010, 09:55 AM   #5
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Hose on the left connects to the underside of the throttle body.
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Old 10-27-2010, 09:57 AM   #6
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Take the bolt that went in that hole (held the A/C compressor bracket on) and put it back in that hole. If you don't, you will lose oil through that hole.
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Old 10-27-2010, 09:59 AM   #7
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949 Racing, or your independent 6UL distributor, should have provided you with color matched hubcaps to go there. If they didn't, or if the caps were damaged, call them up. They will send you a replacement for free, immediately.
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Old 10-27-2010, 10:04 AM   #8
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The red line runs from your EGR Solenoid to the rearmost of the EGR Solenoid twins. The Blue line runs from the frontmost of your EGR Solenoid twins to the rear of your intake manifold. There is another very short line that will run between your EGR Solenoid twins. They both also have their own electrical connectors that come from the passenger side wiring harness.
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Old 10-27-2010, 10:17 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyV View Post
3-check out adj cam gears, setting looks ok for NA? Belt look like its sitting too far back on the gears or is it me? Belt is in the proper position

4-coolant line--plug it or run it? if so to where?
Run it to the mixing manifold unless your turbo is connected to the mixing manifold, in which case run it to the turbo, and then block off whatever you're using to feed water to the turbo

6-6ULS + VW Front rotors/stock rears, am I supposed to have centric rings?
These wheels are lug-centric, no centering rings for the hub

7-plug wires in correct orientation? Motor came without them, Hayne's is nice enough to tell me to remove 1 by 1 so I don't misplace, but no more. Found another picture that had this orientation though...?
plug wires are correct, looking at the coils, mechanics left to right: 4, 1, 2, 3
This is me lengthening my post to at least 1 charachters.
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Old 10-27-2010, 02:12 PM   #10
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Thanks for the responses! I'll be printing this and taking with me.

So to recap:

Connectors Dismiss 1-3, 5, 6--All the things mentioned have been removed (EGR, 02, Evap, Front Therm Sens, PS). Only worry about #4 for now, and should only affect hot starts.

AC bolt, thank you--EZ

Twin lines--not needed as EGR removed, another thing I can remove

Belt/Wires are ok



Slight clarification needed:

1-Coolant line--PO removed EGR stuff and blocked the underside of TB with a plate. I don't have turbo, and currently mixing manifold is capped where most get their water from (right by drive belts). I need to run that line all the way there? Is there any harm in capping it @ the factory oil cooler?

2-Centric rings--bought wheels from a member here, no caps (disclosed). So just throw the wheels on, nothing needed on rotor/hub or wheel itself?

3-Any thoughts on the timing where the gears are set to?


--Thanks again for taking the time
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Old 10-27-2010, 02:30 PM   #11
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With regard to the FPR Solenoid connector - I had a CEL long ago, before I went turbo - regarding that solenoid. I followed some forum advice and simply removed the solenoid and tucked that connector away. Never had any problems with it, and it will not throw a CEL if it is disconnected.

I would run that line from the oil cooler over to the mixing manifold and remove the cap. Alternatively, un-block the bottom of the throttle body and replace the routing there to assist with cold-idle. You could cap it off at the oil cooler, your oil cooler will no longer function. No other serious side effects.

as long as the lug nuts are properly tightened, the wheels should be correctly centered on the hub.

I would leave the cam gears alone unless you have a dynamometer. Your intake gear will only serve to move the power band up or down the RPM spectrum. I don't know how the exh. gear will change anything. You don't have stockers to replace them with, do you?

You're not using an O2 sensor? Aftermarket instead?
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Old 10-27-2010, 06:14 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fooger03 View Post
With regard to the FPR Solenoid connector - I had a CEL long ago, before I went turbo - regarding that solenoid. I followed some forum advice and simply removed the solenoid and tucked that connector away. Never had any problems with it, and it will not throw a CEL if it is disconnected.
Perfect, I'll follow suit then. I'm all for removing whatever I can.

Quote:
Originally Posted by fooger03 View Post
I would run that line from the oil cooler over to the mixing manifold and remove the cap. Alternatively, un-block the bottom of the throttle body and replace the routing there to assist with cold-idle. You could cap it off at the oil cooler, your oil cooler will no longer function. No other serious side effects.
Ok, I'll run the line then. No biggie, don't want to undo the TB changes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by fooger03 View Post
as long as the lug nuts are properly tightened, the wheels should be correctly centered on the hub.
PERFECT!

Quote:
Originally Posted by fooger03 View Post
I would leave the cam gears alone unless you have a dynamometer. Your intake gear will only serve to move the power band up or down the RPM spectrum. I don't know how the exh. gear will change anything. You don't have stockers to replace them with, do you?
I won't make it to the dyno before my trip. Have stock gears, no intention or time to swap them over. As long as nothing looks questionable I'll leave as is.


Quote:
Originally Posted by fooger03 View Post
You're not using an O2 sensor? Aftermarket instead?
Yup got my AEM.




Car was turbo for a bit on low boost, then sat for a while, then upon finding the time/money I starte don it again in a new direction. Sold my stuff and was looking to redo my setup properly. Unfortunately hit a snag with the guy who was to build my mani/dp, and this killed my deadline. Now buddy that I'm goign with is leaving for Navy so this will be last time to get together for a good bit. So I'm doing everything I can to slap together a good enough car.

I don't wanna be stranded anywhere, I don't want to risk hurting the motor I laid good cash on, or any other high dollar items. I know I'll be redoing the car over the winter so I'm flexible with alot of stuff. Just in case I sound like some 16yr old moron who just bought his 1st miater and wants to go zoom zoom, lol
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Old 10-28-2010, 02:47 AM   #13
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Ran the coolant line as suggested to the mix/mani.
Removed the twin lines and the whole assembly their connected to (2 more connectors tucked away).
WB is installed.
IAT is securely ziptied near where the air filter will be.
Header arrived and is on studs, will tighten it all down tomm

Radiator should arrive tomm
Taking my battery to have charged hopefully tomm.



1-The header has a bung for the EBR tube. Does anyone have the exact size plug I need for this so i can try and hunt one down local? **edit--hoooooly ****, Begi sells one for $27.50! For a f-ing steel plug????? And they are smart enough not to list thread/pitch or any info on their site...**

2-I used the shortest AC bolt, and the head is still not flush against the motor. Its basically too long as is, but I guess perfect length when it goes through the AC unit. I torqued it down, is that enough to seal it or do I need to go on the hunt for a shorter bolt? Much easier to do now than on the road after noticing I'm losing oil.
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Old 10-28-2010, 10:06 AM   #14
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cut an inch off of the AC Bolt

Cars that were not equpped with AC simply had a shorter bolt in there.
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Old 10-30-2010, 11:19 AM   #15
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Ok, am hoping to crank this baby today. At least to hear her turn over for a second. My buddy Sam is coming by to help me setup and get a base tune in MS. Also school me some.

Gotta get the rad in, fans hooked up.
Gotta get a new battery
Gotta cut that AC bolt to proper length

1-Does it matter which connector goes to which coil pack?


Now, motor has been sitting for nearly a year. PO sprayed some "fogger?" in there to help preserve things. What would be the recommended method for properly creating oil pressure, and eventual startup?

I was thinking of pulling fuel/spark, and cranking little at a time to get pressure going, then hooking both back up and hopefully fire?
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Old 10-30-2010, 12:24 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyV View Post
Gotta cut that AC bolt to proper length

1-Does it matter which connector goes to which coil pack?


Now, motor has been sitting for nearly a year. PO sprayed some "fogger?" in there to help preserve things. What would be the recommended method for properly creating oil pressure, and eventual startup?

I was thinking of pulling fuel/spark, and cranking little at a time to get pressure going, then hooking both back up and hopefully fire?
To create pressure, pull the spark plugs, unplug the injectors and coil and crank until you have pressure. It should build pressure fairly quickly and if it doesn't, something isn't right. Then just fire it up. The coil pack connectors don't have a particular order, but one electrical plug is for 2 cylinders and the other plug is for the other two. As long as you hook up the plug wires to the corresponding cylinders it should be ok. The haynes manual has the wiring diagrams you need to figure out what is what.

Oh and.. which bolt needs to be replaced after removing A/C? I recently did the same thing and must've missed this little bit of info.
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Old 10-31-2010, 02:29 AM   #17
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Well she fired up! Took a bit if a risk as I didn't realize the new (used/built) motor didn't have a true oil pressure sender. I swapped one onto my old motor, and swapped gauges as well to read real pressure not dummy. With a dummy sender and a real gauge, it reads 0 when ON, and 90 when only has 12v. Gotta see if someone local has one as I don't want to keep it on like this, let alone drive and rip on it at the Gap.

Only real snag was me not realizing the PO of the motor didn't have a clt sensor plumbed into the reroute, he actually put one in the freeze plug which is in the front where the original water neck was. A good bit of head scratching later the original connector for the back of the motor was lengthened to reach the front and luckily worked.

Fired up quickly, and after some fiddling in MS it held. Car was seriously dragging weight and unsure why. Little bit of head scratching later and using my phone a friend lifeline, realized I'm a complete idiot and installed my 949 VW front brake kit incorrectly (R/L - L/R brackets). Easy fix, just stupid on my part.

Once around the block and back into garage to check for leaks and whatnot. Plus it was 12am and with an open header, waaaaaaaay loud.

Happy to report only leak I found was 1 of the lines to my brake proportioning valve. Didn't see any oil or coolant, but obviously will make sure to fix the brake line and check.

I'll do a formal thank you once everything is buttoned up, but Sam (SamL01)and Phil (levnubhin) have been by my side through this mess and really appreciate their help and support. Even though it's not fully declared a victory this was a huge step seeing the car move under its own power. Couldn't have done it without them, and of course the info and help on this forum.

Still plenty to do:
-intake
-fix brake line
-TUNE
-exhaust lengthened to mate with header
-HID head lights
-Oil pressure sender
-register/insure
-alignment
-check, recheck, recheck, and misc
-ac bolt cut to size





Barron, if you look back to some of the first posts you'll see my pics, along with fogger's response. There is 1 bolt on the FRONT of the motor, just above where the oil pan seals. This needs to be installed or will leak oil. Not sure the details why, but I've read it before in passing. The bolt that goes in there is too long sans AC unit. Mine doesn't show signs of leaking, but I plan to cut it down to be safe. Currently the threads are seated well and its tight. But would rather be safe than sorry.
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