Turbo Miata starts but dies instantly
I have a 1992 Mazda Miata 1.6l that i bought a few months ago, it is turboed with a flyin miata turbo kit, when i bought it it was running alright and would start and would idle but would the revs would jump a little. Then after a while it started to idle worse and now to the point where it will not stay on, but sometimes it does idle very roughly but then dies after a few times trying to stay on. Even when i press the throttle it tries to but does not help in the end. I need help diagnosing the issue. I haven’t driven it in a week or two but when driving it would be fine when above 2k rpm and drive normal but when it would get below that it would struggle and most of the time turn off completely especially when coming to a stop. Any help appreciated thank you. Let me knoe if you need any more information to help
That's a pretty awful tune. AFR table doesn't go past 100kpa, ignition table looks horrible, EGO isn't doing much, fuel table looks untuned, MAT correction is pulling too much fuel, I could go on. As soon as this issue fixed, get the car tuned unless you like sourcing and replacing 1.6 engines.
That log was about exactly what I needed.
In that log, the wideband never reads anything. Either the log was too short for it to warm up and read, or it's not working correctly.
Your MAP signal is also reading 68kpa with the engine off, putting you at an altitude of 10,000 feet or you have a MAP sensor issue. Wrong calibration, damaged sensor, etc.
Your TPS is also reading 2+% with the engine off, so that needs to be calibrated. Not a huge problem now because not much references TPS currently, but eventually you should enable CL idle which will.
That log was about exactly what I needed.
In that log, the wideband never reads anything. Either the log was too short for it to warm up and read, or it's not working correctly.
Your MAP signal is also reading 68kpa with the engine off, putting you at an altitude of 10,000 feet or you have a MAP sensor issue. Wrong calibration, damaged sensor, etc.
Your TPS is also reading 2+% with the engine off, so that needs to be calibrated. Not a huge problem now because not much references TPS currently, but eventually you should enable CL idle which will.
Thank you for letting me know, i don't know anything about tuning and can't afford to pay someone to do it for me. Ill try to fix most of the issues myself so it may take a bit so i will be on here asking quite a bit.
Also my AEM wideband was reading a couple weeks ago and was displaying the information but stopped and is blank now. When i press the two buttons on it, it reads 8.8. that's about when it started to not work. How would fix the wideband issue?
Also my AEM wideband was reading a couple weeks ago and was displaying the information but stopped and is blank now. When i press the two buttons on it, it reads 8.8. that's about when it started to not work. How would fix the wideband issue?
I don't think pressing both buttons does anything, read up on the operation of the gauge here:
https://documents.aemelectronics.com...46291df20e.pdf
The left button is mode, the right button is select. 8.8 is just the richest it displays, but make sure you're still on afr mode and the engines running healthy, after that try a new sensor.
For now the car should run and idle on the tune it's on, so don't worry too much about that. For now check the basics, spark, fuel, and compression.
https://documents.aemelectronics.com...46291df20e.pdf
The left button is mode, the right button is select. 8.8 is just the richest it displays, but make sure you're still on afr mode and the engines running healthy, after that try a new sensor.
For now the car should run and idle on the tune it's on, so don't worry too much about that. For now check the basics, spark, fuel, and compression.
Thanks and sorry for late reply shipping took a while
I rebuilt injectors and they’re all good so i should be getting fuel all good
Compression is all good in the 180-185 range for all cylinders
But I tested my spark plugs and didn’t see any spark although i may have done it wrong so i’ll try a different way now to double check, but right now it seems to me like it’s a spark issue. If it is what spark plugs and coil pack do you recommend?
I rebuilt injectors and they’re all good so i should be getting fuel all good
Compression is all good in the 180-185 range for all cylinders
But I tested my spark plugs and didn’t see any spark although i may have done it wrong so i’ll try a different way now to double check, but right now it seems to me like it’s a spark issue. If it is what spark plugs and coil pack do you recommend?
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Joel_YouKnow
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Nov 2, 2021 01:45 PM








