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Old 02-16-2007, 05:24 PM   #1
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Default wahoo! 210psi

Just ran a compression test on the 1.6 i rebuilt ... the results were ...

210 PSI ON EVERY CYLINDER DRY! yup, every one was within 1psi of eachother and that just made my day. they all reached full compression within 4 or 5 turns as well. ya im just happy to see how nicely my motor tuned out so far.
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Old 02-16-2007, 05:31 PM   #2
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Sounds good, have you run it long enough to break it in?
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Old 02-16-2007, 05:31 PM   #3
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sick
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Old 02-16-2007, 05:38 PM   #4
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nice.
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Old 02-16-2007, 05:40 PM   #5
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ya its got about 1500 miles
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Old 02-16-2007, 05:49 PM   #6
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Quote:
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ya its got about 1500 miles
Cool
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Old 02-16-2007, 06:02 PM   #7
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noice!
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Old 02-16-2007, 06:04 PM   #8
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Well done! What was the total cost to rebuild yourself?
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Old 02-16-2007, 06:06 PM   #9
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What kind of static compression are you running? I wasn't seeing over 200 on my 10.5:1 bp fresh from the engine builder.
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Old 02-16-2007, 06:13 PM   #10
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Well, for parts not including the aftermarket rods,
Bearings = $40
Rings = $40
Valve seals = $40
head gasket = $100

Service
check and polish crank = $50
check and hone cylinders = $80
resurface head = $50
port/polish/cc head = cost of dremel and some isopropol alcohol

Thats about what I did for $400
Add carillo rods = $1200
Add torque wrench and misc tools = $1500
add junkyard motor+ tranny = $1850
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Old 02-16-2007, 06:16 PM   #11
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static compression is stock 9 to 1 +/- a little due to the resurfaced head and dremeling the combustion chamber a bit. Was the engine broken in before you tested it? I would give a motor at least 1000 miles before i made any conclusions based on a compression test.

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What kind of static compression are you running? I wasn't seeing over 200 on my 10.5:1 bp fresh from the engine builder.
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Old 02-16-2007, 06:47 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by akaryrye View Post
Just ran a compression test ..every one was within 1psi of eachother
wow.
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Old 02-16-2007, 06:50 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m2cupcar View Post
What kind of static compression are you running? I wasn't seeing over 200 on my 10.5:1 bp fresh from the engine builder.
Oh one more thing i forgot to mention was that when i first started my motor, i warmed it up, changed the oil and took it out going up to 6k and engine breaking repeatedly via the FM method. That could have made the difference. Also, i did not oil the rings or the bore, just lubed it with wd40 and started it up.
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Old 02-16-2007, 07:13 PM   #14
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The "FM" method is the best way to break in a motor.

There is a lot of info around on that method used on motorcycle race engines.

The only thing I would do different than the "FM" method is an oil change at 1000 miles then at the 3000 mile mark
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Old 02-21-2007, 09:01 PM   #15
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wow.
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Old 02-21-2007, 09:16 PM   #16
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honestly, you should do a compression and leakdown test before you start the motor for the first time. Otherwise, you could be driving on the motor and not even know that something is wrong. If you have the machine shop perform a plateau hone the rings seal almost immediately, not to mention your rings will last longer.
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