wahoo! 210psi
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wahoo! 210psi
Just ran a compression test on the 1.6 i rebuilt ... the results were ...
210 PSI ON EVERY CYLINDER DRY! yup, every one was within 1psi of eachother and that just made my day. they all reached full compression within 4 or 5 turns as well. ya im just happy to see how nicely my motor tuned out so far.
210 PSI ON EVERY CYLINDER DRY! yup, every one was within 1psi of eachother and that just made my day. they all reached full compression within 4 or 5 turns as well. ya im just happy to see how nicely my motor tuned out so far.
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Well, for parts not including the aftermarket rods,
Bearings = $40
Rings = $40
Valve seals = $40
head gasket = $100
Service
check and polish crank = $50
check and hone cylinders = $80
resurface head = $50
port/polish/cc head = cost of dremel and some isopropol alcohol
Thats about what I did for $400
Add carillo rods = $1200
Add torque wrench and misc tools = $1500
add junkyard motor+ tranny = $1850
Bearings = $40
Rings = $40
Valve seals = $40
head gasket = $100
Service
check and polish crank = $50
check and hone cylinders = $80
resurface head = $50
port/polish/cc head = cost of dremel and some isopropol alcohol
Thats about what I did for $400
Add carillo rods = $1200
Add torque wrench and misc tools = $1500
add junkyard motor+ tranny = $1850
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0
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static compression is stock 9 to 1 +/- a little due to the resurfaced head and dremeling the combustion chamber a bit. Was the engine broken in before you tested it? I would give a motor at least 1000 miles before i made any conclusions based on a compression test.
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Oh one more thing i forgot to mention was that when i first started my motor, i warmed it up, changed the oil and took it out going up to 6k and engine breaking repeatedly via the FM method. That could have made the difference. Also, i did not oil the rings or the bore, just lubed it with wd40 and started it up.
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From: Vancouver, Canada
The "FM" method is the best way to break in a motor.
There is a lot of info around on that method used on motorcycle race engines.
The only thing I would do different than the "FM" method is an oil change at 1000 miles then at the 3000 mile mark
There is a lot of info around on that method used on motorcycle race engines.
The only thing I would do different than the "FM" method is an oil change at 1000 miles then at the 3000 mile mark
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honestly, you should do a compression and leakdown test before you start the motor for the first time. Otherwise, you could be driving on the motor and not even know that something is wrong. If you have the machine shop perform a plateau hone the rings seal almost immediately, not to mention your rings will last longer.
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