Water temp hell
 

Driving in this morning 64* ambient temp my water temps wont go below 200*. Watching ms the whole way in my temp would consistently go from 200-215 then back to 200. It did that the whole drive (22 miles).

I've only driven the car a few timesd since getting it put back together. I noticed this the other few times so last night I went a put the under tray back on hoping that was the problem. It didn't help.

My setup included the Godspeed rad, 180* t-stat, DIY reroute. Water wetter with about 75-80/25-20 mixture.

Any ideas?
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did you test the thermostat? It only takes once to learn this lesson. Was this highway driving, or fan dependant? Any air bubbles in the system?

No I didn't test it. All highway miles. No air in the system.
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Well its a new rad so a blockage is unlikely. Any kinked hoses with the reroute? I say pressure test the radiator if you don't want to pull the thermostat next. You're car shouldn't need fans at that ambient temp if your moving.

Next time, test the thermostat to make sure its opening all the way, especially if you have a reroute. Its 30-minutes of work that will save you 4-hours in troubleshooting. I bet the radiator is leaking under pressure.

I had a friend with an evo who's car overheated for almost one year, and no one could figure it out, not even the dealer. Finally we learned that the radiator had a tiny pinhole leak, and sprayed a tiny stream of water on the downpipe, so it evaporated and couldn't be traced...but only under pressure.

Phil, I bet you do have air in the system. It took me three times to figure out that was my problem the first day I had the reroute

in for AWR header tank and swirl pot. I'll buy them eventually.

What radiator cap are you using?

I had similar issues with my old one. Following braineack's suggestion, I changed it to one with less pressure. It did the trick for me.

Now, I only see high temps when I turn the A/C on and that's because of the transfer of heat coming out of the A/C condenser and passing through the radiator.

1.1 bar = roughly 16 psi.
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I have always wondered,what does a header tank & swirl pot do to help out the cooling system?

I'd replace the radiator cap.
Stephanie

swirl pots make the water spin like a vortex, so the air goes to the center, which bleeds through a valve into the header tank...which becomes the highest point in the water system...basically replacing your "coolant overflow" which is essentially the same thing but located lower than the head for some dumbass reason. They're $100 each from AWR. However, the problem here should be fixed without these parts. My car did just fine with no fans in 70* ambient temps while road tuning.

So yesterday after the car started to over heat on the way to work I decided to pull the thermostat, gut it and put it back in. Drove home and it didn't over heat but my temps are still to high. When I got home I jacked the front of the car way high, took the cap off and let it run. Alot of bubbles did come out. Drove the car this morning and my temps are still to high. 205-220. Wont go any lower or higher and this is on the highway going 60+.

Is it possible that my rad isn't getting enough air flow?

Someone please give me some ideas.
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Simple and cheap enough so I'll give it a try. Should I try a different psi?
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I've always run a 13psi cap. Certain you have no leaks?

Positive
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Could the larger IC you put in mean less air for rad, mean higher temps?

Well thats all I can really think of, but could it make that much of a difference. Anyone?
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Blockage perhaps unlikely, but certainly sounds like a partially blocked rad. Is the core hot to the touch after driving? Consistent, or are there cold spots?

How are you certain there aren't any pinhole leaks in the rad? Can't circulate water if you can't hold pressure. IIRC, yours wouldn't be the first Godspeed rad with a leak.

just for craps and giggles Phil, replace the thermostat. Its only 5 bucks and in the end, that may be the issue. I also agree with the cap being an issue. I still think you have a leak somewhere honestly. Back when I first got my car, it overheated like crazy and I never could find a puddle of water anywhere. One day, I had the hood open while the car was running and I was pulling on the throttle cable, I notice a fine mist shooting out of the back of the head. The hose that went from the back of the head to the factory oil cooler had a tiny hole in it that was shooting water onto the bellhousing which in turn was causing the watter to evaporate. I would have never known that was the issue had I not been at the right place at the right time to see it. Replaced that stupid hose, and had no problems after that.

Yes the rad is hot and it seems consistent.

I just had the radiator repaired at a radiator shop because it was leaking. They said they pressure test them after they fix them.
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1 quick question: are you using your A/C? If so, do the following test; drive around with the A/C off, if you see that temps don't go as high as before, you're facing the same issue I'm facing. It's not the IC, it's the A/C condenser which is blowing hot air on to the radiator. That, coupled with the IC blocking part of the radiator is your problem.

FWIW, if that is the case; I must say I haven't found a solution yet. I'm asking around to see if I can place the A/C condenser at some other location.

200 seems normal to me. Thats the temps I get with my Mishi rad.

Why would you want an engine cooler then its normal operating temp anyway?

I imagine a good cooling system wont make an engine run colder, but instead will be able to maintain the correct operating temperature under all driving conditions.

are the fans coming on? if you cant get below 200*F on a 70*F day with fans, then there's a problem.

Yes the fans do come on but they dont come on until almost 220 for some reason and then shut off at about 205 and they are still running off of the stock ecu. I haven't figured out how to get MS to control them. (Think I need to run a wire for them?)
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220? You mean 215.

Your easy therm values might be screwy if this is whats happening.

To control fans, you need to install a trigger circuit into the MS.

When Scott built my MS he did the fan mod. I just need to know how to get it to work.

FYI all my temps are based on the prosport gauge that is installed in the upper rad hose right after the t-stat.
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its in megatune under fan control ;)


temps seem off when it's coming on, stock thermoswitch should have them coming on at 205-210*F

Thats it, just go into fan control and set it. No special wiring?
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Car has been sitting at idle for about 1/2 now with the cap off. Lots of air came out and it seems to be doing fine. Prosport gauge shows 200/ MS shows 214 when the fans come on. They stay on for about a minute then shut off. MS shows about 198 and the gauge about 190.
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Came to blab about air in your system, but you found it. ;)

lol yeah, I also suspect my rad cap is no good. Im going to pick up a stock cap and see how it behaves.
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nope. that's it.

set the ON temp and OFF temp and unplug your thermoswitch.

set it to come on really low to make sure the operation is correct.

I run the 16 psi one, simply because that is what was already there. I think either the 16 or 13 would be fine.
Stephanie

Going to try that now.

Thanks Stephanie.
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Fan control section is grayed out. Can't make any changes. Waddu I do?
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then go to basic setting > codebase and outputs

change JS0 from water injection to Fan control.

Did that, then set the fans to come on at 170, off at 160 and it didn't work.
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^^^???
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hmm. did i actually build that mod for you?

Well, I know I wanted it. How can I tell if it has it or not?
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pop the cover and see if there's a small circuit on the proto area.

So I'll have to pop the cover and post a picture for you to tell me. Cause I gots no clue, lol.
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Just got home and water temps are still way to high imo. Cruising in the 205-210 range on an 80* day is to hot. Just picked up a 13 psi cap so when the car cool i'll put it on and check. Dosent look like I lost any fluid based on the level in the resivior.
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my temps fully warmed jump between 203,207,211. all stock cooling system i think it's normal

Those temps are not "way too high". The engine is gonna run hotter than the thermostat temperature. Sounds normal to me.

I'd drive it for 20 minutes or so with the radiator cap loose so any air that's in the system can work itself out.

And do you have an A/C condenser?

Yes i do.

I just find it weird that my car ran much cooler than this b4 the rebuild and reroute. On cool days it would run at about 180 on the freeway.
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What timing map are you running? Too little advance induces more heat into the cooling system.

Map hasn't changed.
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Did a quick search and I dont want to start a thread for this.

Are NA6 and NA8 thermostat's the same?
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Ah. Motors run hotter than normal when breaking in. Typically takes 2-5K miles before it will get down to "norm". So if it's under 5K, don't worry, just keep putting miles on it.

And damnit, POST your fucking timing map. Just because it's the same doesn't mean shit. Have you verified that the balancers TDC mark in indeed TDC?

Good to know, I only have 250 miles on it now. lol


I'll post it when i get home(laptop is dead) and yes, timing is dead on.
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should of gone with the Hyper Reroute.

lmao theres still time!!! You know, a simple cutout in the front bumper works wonders. At idle, my temps will settle at 180 and not go any further. On the highway, my temps will not go over 155 no matter how hard I drive the car. On the street my temps are at 160

Im waiting for his awesome revolutionary reroute to come out.
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Timing Map, don't laugh to hard.
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did you know alt-print screen only copies the active window?

Learn something new every day. Sweet!

:bowrofl:
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I have the big ol' 12x18x3 intercooler mounted directly in front of my radiator with about 1/2 and inch between them and on the freeway with the 180* thermostat it sits at 180* on the dot so I can attest to the fact that you should not be experiencing a case of blocked flow to the radiator.

-Ryan

Was there ever a resolution on this temp issue? I'm interested because I'm experiencing higher temps since the outside temp has gone into the 70's. What use to be dead center or slightly to the left on the stock gauge is now hitting 3/4 on the right.