LINK + TURBO + CAMS is what we are talking about here....

Webcam 505s give you a lumpy idle?

<3

Thanks for the advice there Steve.

As Braineack notes I have the Cams, Link and the Turbo - the issue is more to do with the high map reading at idle. As a comparison, a similar set up to mine would have a map reading in the early 30's at idle - mine is nearer 60. I guess I'm trying to figure out a way to get the map reading lower as Jeremy at FM seems to think it's caused by excessive overlap in the cams/cam gears - Excessive overlap, I understand, is not good for EGT's, so advancing the timing could be fraught.

Not with the link they don't, the car idles fine. AFR's at idle are currently around 14.5 with the lc-1

jeez .. for an admin you'd want to chill out pal.. the OP asked!

"or am I better off re-installing the stock 1.6 cams."

In my opinion, yes!

aha! cool cool!

This may not be the forum for you, "pal".

Ye think? I've never had an issue with it during the last 2 .. oh, no,.. hang on.. 4 years here.

quit the sniping, back to the thread

The solution for that is leave the site. ;)


Solution for the OP would probably be to adjust the cam gears to dial out overlap like suggested a few times. :cool:

Bringing this thread back from the dead as I'm all to get the car dyno tuned. Updated specs as follows;

- Webcam505 cams/Fidanza adjustable cam gears
- Greddy manifold/ TD04 turbo
- 2.5" dp, test pipe and catback
- FMlink ecu/ No afm
- LC-1
- RX-7 550cc
- Denso Subara WRX 3 port EBC
- FMIC/ VTA BOV

I'm currently set at 10psi and need ideas on what I should be shooting for when adjusting the cams at the dyno. Quicker spool is my preference, but I'd also like to shoot for 200bhp with less boost.

The cams are apparently set up with 6 degrees of retard on the exhaust side, zero on the intake side, but I really am clueless on this terminology and cam speak. I understand I need to be dialing out overlap.

Any help and advice would be appreciated.