fuck...cant get them from my buddy, and he deals with rc, they said there impossible to get, and i was going to get them for 5$ each. So im just going with the spliced ones. Im probably not going to cut the stock ones. I was thinking about just shoving the wire inside the old harnesses? Would that be good or no, or should i just cut, wire and tape them up with the new ones?

I thought you said you weren't stupid.

Call Arizona TPI telling you need Bosch Style Connectors for you injectors.

http://www.aztpi.com/

Cut your old connectors off
Run Heat Shrink tube on the wires BEFORE you solder.
Then Solder
Then heat put the heat to the heat shrink tube to secure it in place.

im not just lazy, but like they say do it right the first time. I really didnt want to cut the stock ones incase i ever convert it back to stock. But what you gona do...now i have to go out and buy a soldering gun.

I find is hard to believe someone who works on modern EFI cars, let alone mods them does not have a soldering gun and a multimeter. This is basic stuff.

So you were planning on shoving in wire into the terminals? Jesus fucking christ.

If you want the "revert back to stock" ability then spend the money and buy the oval male to square female (aka flying miata style, even if they are not made by FM, just resold) injector plugs. It isn't like you haven't sunk x amount of dollars into your setup already.

If you don't either:

a) Practice a TON (unlikely considering your attitude to anything) before you even attempt to solder it yourself.
b) Pay or get someone else to do it who can.

If you do it yourself, as your first time soldering you will just fuck up the injector harness.

probably, i have a multimeter, where i wire stuff, i get strippers, tie wires together get the caps, put it over and twist. I believe my uncle will know how to, he has a welder, and a soldering gun so.

This is what came in the mail for me today
Attachment 214707

Mmmmmm, sahweeeet. I have a new set on the way, along with a Tein FSTB. Ordered a Hard Dog Hardcore today too. The money is flying out my hands.

C

niceee, what are the little nubs on the side at the bottom of the fronts. I have them on mine but no clue what there used for:confused: do you?

stock spray pattern
Attachment 214704
rc spray pattern, big difference
Attachment 214705
stock vs. rc
Attachment 214706

Pretty sure it's for ABS equipped cars.

I've had lots of luck using these:

http://www.molex.com/pdm_docs/sd/191640162_sd.pdf

With this..

http://www.autobarn.net/flhegun.html

For doing solder connections in tight places. Just make sure you don't do it around a lot of gas vaper.. clean up any pools of gas and let things air out well if you are working in the engine bay.

They look as if you can clip something into them, im not exactly sure but they are only on the fronts.

Everything installed and i love them :)

FSTB?

At least ur not paying for shipping, wait thats still going on right?

BOOM! Lol ya, that nifty heat gun looks pretty cool, pretty much like the end of a cigarette lighter but hotter. I'm going to Canadian Tire today to buy one, or rent something from Home Depot, installing MS, and try to tune. Cant do fans because rads not in, and rims are stuck so shocks have to wait.

Front Strut Tower Bar. Guess since it's a Miata Front SHOCK tower bar would be more appropriate.

It sure is. Free shipping on roll bars until the end of the month.

C

ok, got the ms hooked up with the injectors everythings in, im just waiting for my friend to bring his laptop over so i can tune it. I have a map, but my injectors are 440`s. So do i go to fuel VE table 3? Or where? And what do i set the fuel to? I am very noob to this i just need help where to and what to set the fuel at so i can just get the car running for now, then i will play with it later. Thanks Mike

can a mod just ban him?

Like cjernigan said, on ABS-equipped cars there is a clip which mounts the sensor lead to the damper body to steady it. And yes, only the fronts have these.

got it...reading really helps :)

Yes! That seems to be a moderating function :magna:
Do you have something in mind? :gay:

I refer you all to post #41

C

I say keep him, he apparently has money to spend and lessons to be learned. Even if he asks retarded questions constantly at least it's good for a laugh. The anger subsides a little after a while. I'd rather see him get his car running, while reading the manual and doing things on his own. If that means linking to the manual over and over then so be it. In the meantime the laughter overpowers the hate...

lmao, and i did remember to take out the st sign fuse :). Ok i dont know if this is dumb or not. I read the whole thing last about 5 times. Is it mandatory to use the timing light to set the timing to run the ms, because i really dont have a timing light handy. Or is that you only have to do if running a turbo? This is a serious question, call me dumb w.e i just need to know thanks. Now i am going to go outside and freeze my balls off putting back together my intake in -10 weather:td:

it keeps getting better

...

oh emm eff gee

no, but who needs correct ignition timing anyways.

gotcha

surely there's an auto parts store near you, timing lights are not expensive.

Honestly, I wasn't going to post in this thread but that last question made my jaw drop.

more money dishing away, i hate buying shit and only using it once but i guess thats what i going do. I made my own intake today, and wired up the injectors almost ready to start up. The only problem i have now is on the intake the connector on the throttle body that connects to the intake, im going to have to drill a hole and make something up, because i cant weld aluminum.

I bought my timing light when I went turbo and have used it like 4 times. For $40, that's not bad. I'll use it again when I put my MSPNP in.

sorry for shitty pics (cell phone)

my tuning computer lmfao, the towers on top of my subs, dont have laptop old computer it wil do :)
Attachment 214689
have to find a way to plug that into the intake, any suggestions? Cant weld because its aluminum
Attachment 214690
wired up my injectors
Attachment 214691
this little heater kept me warm all day :) believe it lasts 40 hours or so on one tank of propane
Attachment 214692
new intake i made. Do you think that it hitting the rad hose, it will raise my intake temps?(tried to get red...blue was only colour look kind of corny but will have to do for the time being)
Attachment 214693
new bulbs lmao bright as fuck
Attachment 214694

Intake piping---i had the same question....was told that a good idea (at least for now) would be to get a barbed/npt fitting...drill a hole, tap, thread fitting, connect/clamp hose and some jbweld should hold or a while..GL

Check that, just looked at the pics again...the above was for the hose that u have ur breather filter on...MIGHT work with the hose under the tb as well, but not sure...

sorry, im gonna just see myself out...:inout:

just leave it. since you have a MS, you dont need to have it plumbed into the intake.

temp jack, but on topic...
Brain either way should be fine, or it should NOT be plumbed if ur running ms? I ask cuz I just had someone weld a nipple 4 dat same hose....ill be running ms & turbo...

it still sucks in air for idle, but you can just put on a little air filter or something like that, but its easier to plumb it in

true true, i think im going to buy a barb, drill a hole, tap it in, silicone it on, and attach it would be the easiest.

Since we're still on the topic...
How about the OTHER hose, the breather? Ok to leave tapped/Jbwelded forever? Or should be welded when u get around to it?

You don't need to weld the stuff. Drill tap install with sealant. Done.

theres three kinds of them theres a advanced timing light, Inductive Timing Light, and a digital timing the advanced is 100, inductive is 50, and digital is 150. The inductive would be good enough right?

The cheapest inductive you can get will be fine. I paid like $10 for mine at harbor freight, it works great. All they are is a strobe light.

Lol well here in Canada everything is over priced. I think im going to take it out use it once, and bring it back ahah they cant tell you used it.

Once you get it set with the MS you never have to dick with it again. You can adjust the base timing through the MS once you get it set the first time.

yea, i will be doing all that tm, if i get it up and running il get a video, but i mite not well see have exams this week have to study :vash:

nice silicone job lol, now im going to install it but i dont want to because theres snow out side and freezing, but what you going to do, oh ya and go and buy a timing light :bigtu: i shall be back later

Attachment 214686

that's held in with more than just silicone... right?

aha sort of, i drilled a hole and screwed it in, trust me its not coming out, i even tried to unscrew it or yank it out, it wont budge. I just siliconed it to seal it. And now my fucking computers not working...so i have to find a laptop.

woooo got it running, set timing everything, at idle my a/f ratio is 14.5 is that normal? And i set it at 12.7 when you set it for the fuel for injectors for the amount of fuel or w.e, i will get vid soon, my dad hates when i rev the car or any shit like that, and i have to put the hood on and clean the car, it will be on soon though.

alright got a video, idles crap, headers are red as fuck something is wrong, heres the video,
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GyceAR_tgSg

The headers are either red because your cat is blocked or you're running way to lean. It sounds like it's running on 2 or 3 cylinders. Your IAT is most likely heat soaking in the intake pipe. You can add fuel based on IAT by using the coolant based density menu.

ok but the position of the sensor is ok? Because im getting it flat bedded to a place in Hamilton called DL Motorsports so they can tune it for me, i know shit :confused:

did you set your timing?

Yes sir. But i dont think i did it right, i read everything, did it all right, my dads blind as a bat...so i ask him if its 10 or not...he says ya ya, so i really couldn't do it. But i just called the guy, he said its 85$ an hour for shop then 160$ for dyno tune. So im probably spending about 300 for dyno and shop and getting it flat bedded there. And hes worked on miatas before he knows everything about the MS and he has one there right now hes putting a supercharger on a 90, with greddy e-manage, il get some pics be a fun trip :inout:

Thank god you're getting someone to do it all for you. I've been waiting for the, "My car is smoking, did i burn my pistons?" thread. Hopefully the guy knows what he's doing.

Lmao thats why im bringing it to him. Ya word around town is hes the best around here, and does it amazingly, and like i said he has alot of experience and i said what engine management i was running and he knew all about it :) going to be a fun drive home, i want to see how much hp im pulling, especially with the new intake, sounds loud as hell lol. Hopefully it doesn't snow so i can drive it back.

Attachment 214655
Attachment 214656
Attachment 214657
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Attachment 214659
Attachment 214660

was taking pictures today and cleaning up the garage, when i noticed as you can see in pictures 2 and 3 that the injector wiring is different. The right way was white wire then yellow wire. When i rewired mine i put yellow then white. Do you think that would be my problem, or does it matter which wire is where? It probably does and now i have to rewire them all. I just want someone to tell me to make sure if its right or not thanks, Mike

I noticed that you have a brass oil pressure sender adapter. I have read that the brass adapters can break. Egauges.com sells a steel adapter. Just a heads up.

aha thanks, when it goes it goes, i just need to know if i hooked up my injectors wrong thats why my cars not idling right