What is best to use to paint sub frames?
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 2,417
Total Cats: 20
From: Seabrook, TX
I have the whole front and rear sub frames off the car and i am i doing a bushing replacement all around. While i am doing that i think i need to clean up the subframes and paint them. Has anyone painted theirs and what type of paint did they use?
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 29,085
Total Cats: 375
From: Republic of Dallas
STIRLING SILVER-POR-15 Inc.
that would look ph@+. I wish I had put that **** on my block. I'll do everything else in that stuff when I do the new drivetrain.
that would look ph@+. I wish I had put that **** on my block. I'll do everything else in that stuff when I do the new drivetrain.
That ****'s expensive. I can go buy 2 part epoxy paint at the Marine store here for 125 a gallon and I guarantee you it's better than that stuff. Commercial grade ****. The best.
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 29,085
Total Cats: 375
From: Republic of Dallas
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 2,417
Total Cats: 20
From: Seabrook, TX
Yeah but i won't really need a gallon right? I was thinking like 2 quarts or something.
Would this qithstand engine temps to be able to paint the block with it?
Would this qithstand engine temps to be able to paint the block with it?
A quart will be plenty to do every piece on the engine as long as you don't eat half the paint. I'd just primer it and then spray it with engine enamal ****. If you do a good job it will hold up for years. That's good enough.
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 29,085
Total Cats: 375
From: Republic of Dallas
I did about 5 coats of the 1300* duplicolor metalic silver on my block. I put this paint brake rotors on my 1.6 and that stuck until I removed the rotors.

its pretty and I can see the leaks.

its pretty and I can see the leaks.
por 15 is about the toughest paint out there. yes it's expensive, but it's worth every penny. it's basicaly an epoxy paint, just not two part. nay sayers are the ones who haven't used it. those who have will swear by it till death. undercarriage parts is what it's made for. just don't paint two parts together or hood latches unless they are blown apart. if you glue parts to each other with this stuf you will not get them apart.
I've never seen a one part paint that compared to a 2 part. I've used both that's why I'm saying 1 part isn't as good. Not saying it's ****, just saying it's inferior to a 2 part mix.
I've owned a '61 Chevy Stepside and restored from the ground up sans engine, wiring, and trans.... I left that up to the purchaser. I will stand behind Por-15 till the day I die.
The main selling point and its most outstanding feature, is that it is also a rust converter. That would be the second part in a one part that is most overlooked. Outstanding product, and worthy for my own.
The main selling point and its most outstanding feature, is that it is also a rust converter. That would be the second part in a one part that is most overlooked. Outstanding product, and worthy for my own.
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Joined: Jan 2008
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From: Central, TX / Bay area, CA
Be careful were you use engine enamel, some of it will not cure until it reaches some ridiculous temp like 800F, or it will come off with anything and run all over if you have leaks. Id only use it on things that make heat. But that's just my $.02 and what the can on my engine enamel said.
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