rharris19

iTrader: (41)

I have the whole front and rear sub frames off the car and i am i doing a bushing replacement all around. While i am doing that i think i need to clean up the subframes and paint them. Has anyone painted theirs and what type of paint did they use?

slutz4

iTrader: (3)

por15 is what Id use

Splitime

iTrader: (24)

I'm going to be using an engine enamel. Since they are built for fluid resistance.

No clue if its the right paint or not though

fooger03

iTrader: (2)

powdercoat everything

hustler

iTrader: (6)

I've had great results with the duplicolor 1300* ceramic ****. Silver so you can see the leaks.

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

I'd use Rustoleum professional series primer and finish paint. It's tough ****. After it cures it's pretty damn hard and hold strong.

Stein

iTrader: (46)

POR15 as said above. That's what it's made for.

nicacus

iTrader: (7)

+1 on POR15
It doesnt come off once it's on

hustler

iTrader: (6)

STIRLING SILVER-POR-15 Inc.

that would look ph@+. I wish I had put that **** on my block. I'll do everything else in that stuff when I do the new drivetrain.

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

That ****'s expensive. I can go buy 2 part epoxy paint at the Marine store here for 125 a gallon and I guarantee you it's better than that stuff. Commercial grade ****. The best.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

...drop a little paper baby toss it up.

rharris19

iTrader: (41)

Yeah but i won't really need a gallon right? I was thinking like 2 quarts or something.

Would this qithstand engine temps to be able to paint the block with it?

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

A quart will be plenty to do every piece on the engine as long as you don't eat half the paint. I'd just primer it and then spray it with engine enamal ****. If you do a good job it will hold up for years. That's good enough.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

I did about 5 coats of the 1300* duplicolor metalic silver on my block. I put this paint brake rotors on my 1.6 and that stuck until I removed the rotors.

its pretty and I can see the leaks.

dynokiller90

por 15 is about the toughest paint out there. yes it's expensive, but it's worth every penny. it's basicaly an epoxy paint, just not two part. nay sayers are the ones who haven't used it. those who have will swear by it till death. undercarriage parts is what it's made for. just don't paint two parts together or hood latches unless they are blown apart. if you glue parts to each other with this stuf you will not get them apart.

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

I've never seen a one part paint that compared to a 2 part. I've used both that's why I'm saying 1 part isn't as good. Not saying it's ****, just saying it's inferior to a 2 part mix.

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

BTW my **** will be painted white if it ever gets painted. Makes it easy to spot leaks. We always paint industrial equipment white for this very reason.

Machismo

iTrader: (1)

I've owned a '61 Chevy Stepside and restored from the ground up sans engine, wiring, and trans.... I left that up to the purchaser. I will stand behind Por-15 till the day I die.
The main selling point and its most outstanding feature, is that it is also a rust converter. That would be the second part in a one part that is most overlooked. Outstanding product, and worthy for my own.

Gotpsi?

iTrader: (5)

Be careful were you use engine enamel, some of it will not cure until it reaches some ridiculous temp like 800F, or it will come off with anything and run all over if you have leaks. Id only use it on things that make heat. But that's just my $.02 and what the can on my engine enamel said.