I would like to learn to drive a miata stock, then upgrade slowly. Driver mod is the most important ;)

Not if you run it standalone. You can do a parallel install and still maintain OBD-II functionality, but talk about over complicating shit :/

Here is your sign

If you run the car in parallel it is possible but it is much harder. I would highly recommend picking up a 94 and just being done with it. Knowing the luck of people on this board if you find a 95 it will be OBD2 just to spite you.

The head isn't exactly stronger, it just flows better than the 94-97 heads (the 99-00 head can also be easily swapped as mentioned onto a 94-97 block). The 99-00 blocks have bearing issues, so just beware. There's a TSB out there for them too, just google "miata thrust bearing".

Like "notching" the frame rail for turbo clearance. :giggle:

He didn't say I couldn't pass. He just said you wouldn't have to worry about it :fawk:

Im gonna let that one slide because of your avatar, but shit is easier and I would say cheaper with the earlier model. :noob:

:repost:

:fawk:

For the money, buy a '94 that somebody has already started on. You can find'em that already have some suspension stuff and a rollbar to be a bit ahead. Guys sell cars just like that all the time on this forum.

1998

04 MSM or 02SE only because I have one lol. The FAQ on miata.net will be a good place for you to look btw.

Well, that's what you get for being a self-centerd old American pig....not surprising you never learn anything about world markets.:laugh:


lol




Side note- this thread reeks of troll. It's such a loaded question....ther eis no specific answer...just preference.

Well it's not a troll thread. I am looking to buy a Miata, and would like to know what year is the best to look out for.


Reasonable question if you ask me :dunno:

Advantages of the 94. 1.8L engine. Lowest compression engine. Last year of OBD1. Torsen rear end. Last year with a real oil pressure gauge. Oil port in block for turbo. Bigger brakes.

1.8L - extra displacement doesn't hurt. Also corrected some problems with the early 1.6 short nose crank. Doesn't have the bottom end problems that crop up in the 99. Low compression engine is good for boost. OBD1 means just a sniffer test for emissions. OBD2 and you have to have the stock ecu in place for them to plug into. Torsen is a good rear end for the track unless you go huge HP. Earlier 1.6L years had viscous. Real oil pressure gauge means you don't have to buy one aftermarket - minor bonus. The block oil port is just a convenience and ease of install thing. The 1.8 cars have more brake under them than the earlier 1.6's. The stock brakes with proper pads can take care of you just fine until you combine significant boost and heavy road coarse duty.

That being said, people have and enjoy every year built. Each year has it's own issues. 94 just happens to be a pretty great year for people wanting to go FI.

True! I wish I had done that sometimes.

But I like knowing where everything is on my car.

the MS standalone dosent throw back codes, there for not emissions compliant.



i think sombody on here said "the NB is a better car but the NA is a better roadster"

06+ is the best

1990 because the crank is lighter.

I tracked a 90whp miata for a year, then took 2-years off while I built my car, and now it feels like the first time, feels like the very first time.