What is the best year miata to buy? - Page 2 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 04-23-2010, 12:30 PM   #21
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I would like to learn to drive a miata stock, then upgrade slowly. Driver mod is the most important
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Old 04-23-2010, 12:31 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by jbrown7815 View Post
Can one not pass OBD2 emissions if they have MS ECU?
Not if you run it standalone. You can do a parallel install and still maintain OBD-II functionality, but talk about over complicating **** :/
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Old 04-23-2010, 12:32 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by jbrown7815 View Post
Can one not pass OBD2 emissions if they have MS ECU?
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Originally Posted by therieldeal View Post
OBD1 so you dont have to fk around with OBD2 (plug-in) emissions tests. with OBD1 you can pass with an aftermarket EMS, since it's just a tailpipe test. my escort passes no problem.
Here is your sign
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Old 04-23-2010, 12:33 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by jbrown7815 View Post
Can one not pass OBD2 emissions if they have MS ECU?
If you run the car in parallel it is possible but it is much harder. I would highly recommend picking up a 94 and just being done with it. Knowing the luck of people on this board if you find a 95 it will be OBD2 just to spite you.
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Old 04-23-2010, 12:34 PM   #25
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I like it b/c it is newer, has the stronger head/1.8/diff/etc I'm not too worried about the color, though I prefer a blue.
The head isn't exactly stronger, it just flows better than the 94-97 heads (the 99-00 head can also be easily swapped as mentioned onto a 94-97 block). The 99-00 blocks have bearing issues, so just beware. There's a TSB out there for them too, just google "miata thrust bearing".

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Originally Posted by faeflora View Post
**** just buy a pre-turbod something year. You will save $ and it is easier and cheaper to improve on someone else's **** ups than make your own.
Like "notching" the frame rail for turbo clearance.
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Old 04-23-2010, 12:36 PM   #26
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Here is your sign
He didn't say I couldn't pass. He just said you wouldn't have to worry about it
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Old 04-23-2010, 12:39 PM   #27
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He didn't say I couldn't pass. He jsut said you wouldn't have to worry about it
Im gonna let that one slide because of your avatar, but **** is easier and I would say cheaper with the earlier model.
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Old 04-23-2010, 12:40 PM   #28
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Im gonna let that one slide because of your avatar, but **** is easier and I would say cheaper with the earlier model.
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Old 04-23-2010, 12:41 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by jbrown7815 View Post
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Old 04-23-2010, 12:59 PM   #30
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For the money, buy a '94 that somebody has already started on. You can find'em that already have some suspension stuff and a rollbar to be a bit ahead. Guys sell cars just like that all the time on this forum.
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Old 04-23-2010, 01:02 PM   #31
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1998
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Old 04-23-2010, 01:57 PM   #32
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04 MSM or 02SE only because I have one lol. The FAQ on miata.net will be a good place for you to look btw.
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Old 04-23-2010, 02:26 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by buffon01 View Post
Hey *******, I thought it got discontinued in 98. I guess I was wrong
Well, that's what you get for being a self-centerd old American pig....not surprising you never learn anything about world markets.


lol




Side note- this thread reeks of troll. It's such a loaded question....ther eis no specific answer...just preference.
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Old 04-23-2010, 02:54 PM   #34
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Well it's not a troll thread. I am looking to buy a Miata, and would like to know what year is the best to look out for.


Reasonable question if you ask me
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Old 04-23-2010, 03:10 PM   #35
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Advantages of the 94. 1.8L engine. Lowest compression engine. Last year of OBD1. Torsen rear end. Last year with a real oil pressure gauge. Oil port in block for turbo. Bigger brakes.

1.8L - extra displacement doesn't hurt. Also corrected some problems with the early 1.6 short nose crank. Doesn't have the bottom end problems that crop up in the 99. Low compression engine is good for boost. OBD1 means just a sniffer test for emissions. OBD2 and you have to have the stock ecu in place for them to plug into. Torsen is a good rear end for the track unless you go huge HP. Earlier 1.6L years had viscous. Real oil pressure gauge means you don't have to buy one aftermarket - minor bonus. The block oil port is just a convenience and ease of install thing. The 1.8 cars have more brake under them than the earlier 1.6's. The stock brakes with proper pads can take care of you just fine until you combine significant boost and heavy road coarse duty.

That being said, people have and enjoy every year built. Each year has it's own issues. 94 just happens to be a pretty great year for people wanting to go FI.
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Old 04-23-2010, 03:59 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by faeflora View Post
**** just buy a pre-turbod something year. You will save $ and it is easier and cheaper to improve on someone else's **** ups than make your own.
True! I wish I had done that sometimes.

But I like knowing where everything is on my car.
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Old 04-23-2010, 04:02 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbrown7815 View Post
Can one not pass OBD2 emissions if they have MS ECU?
the MS standalone dosent throw back codes, there for not emissions compliant.



i think sombody on here said "the NB is a better car but the NA is a better roadster"
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Old 04-23-2010, 04:19 PM   #38
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06+ is the best
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Old 04-23-2010, 04:29 PM   #39
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1990 because the crank is lighter.
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Old 04-23-2010, 05:35 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbrown7815 View Post
I would like to learn to drive a miata stock, then upgrade slowly. Driver mod is the most important
I tracked a 90whp miata for a year, then took 2-years off while I built my car, and now it feels like the first time, feels like the very first time.
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