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Old 08-29-2007, 11:51 PM   #1
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Default What The Fudge Bucket! (Broken Shock) aww

Ok, I was tightening my upper shock nut today as I thought it had come loose and might be the cause of some of the noises I am hearing from the suspension.

I was careful and set my torque wrench to 28 fl/lbs and started to tighten the nut. The ******* thing came off in my hand!!!!

The top part of the shock with the adjuster snapped in half! I am no he-man and was using a torque wrench set to the correct value, and the thing just snapped off.

Has this ever happened to anyone before??? What do I do. I think this was a defect of some kind as there was no way that it should have snapped with such a light amount of force.

Now the shock adjuster pin is sticking way out and I have a bad feeling that I need to replace the shock now.

What the hell should I do? Contact Tein?

I am really not a happy camper right now.


(sorry mods if you don't like the title, but I am pissed)
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Old 08-29-2007, 11:52 PM   #2
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Old 08-29-2007, 11:54 PM   #3
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Contact Tein, but it could also be a failure of the torque wrench. Man bad luck..
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Old 08-29-2007, 11:55 PM   #4
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Ouch!!, yeah Id deffinately give a call to Tein, I cant see how that could brake so easily.
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Old 08-30-2007, 12:19 AM   #5
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I can see how it would break. it's a hollow threaded rod. no strength and stress concentrations up the wazoo.

And yeah that sucks! Tein should be able to rebuild the whole thing for not too much. If they give you ****, get ahold of emilio700 from miata.net and maybe he can get you in touch with someone useful.
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Old 08-30-2007, 12:22 AM   #6
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I doubt it was the wrench as I was using it just minutes earlier to tighten my end links, and it clicked at what felt like 30 ft/lbs as I had set it to.

I'll e-mail tein tonight, I just hope my car is still operable. Plus I just got an alignment a week or so ago, and if I change out the shock I'll probably have to get it re-aligned.
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Old 08-30-2007, 12:27 AM   #7
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damn man...thats insane.
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Old 08-30-2007, 01:20 AM   #8
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I hate to tell you this but you cannot drive it like that. That is the very top of the piston which moves up and down and dampens your springs, as it is in the picture your shock will not be able to dampen for rebound and will be hitting the bottom of your tophat. Now there is a way to make this work and it is because you have tiens. You could take your shock out and remove that long spacer under the tophat and that will expose more threads but only allow the car to be about 12" hub to fender, maybe 12.5max and the shocks have no more travel after that ... (this is how I set up my basics by accident and have just recently installed them correctly. It actually would work very well that way for people who want very low ride heights like CSP cars but I need clearance.

good luck, man that really sucks. I always go sort of easy on stuff like that because if the bolt starts coming loose it lets you know quite audibly and really doesnt need even 28lbs/ft, 15-20 is just fine.
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Old 08-30-2007, 01:35 AM   #9
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Well the upper shock nut's factory spec is from 23-34, so I thought I was being pretty gentle.

And I guess I have to try what you suggested, as I was all set up to go to a tech day on the 1st to install my clutch, and I will be very not happy if I miss that and have to tackle the clutch alone.

Will the shock still have the same travel but just make the car sit a lot lower? Or does removing that spacer eat into the travel as well? I was trying to figure out a way to ride a bit lower with the same shock travel and that sounds like a good method which could be adjusted with a different spacer, but I just need to get my car working again before anything like that.
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Old 08-30-2007, 01:50 AM   #10
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no it adds a bit to how far the shock can be pushed down before bottoming out and takes away from how far it can go back up, if that makes any sense. I found running without the spacer and maximum ride height (12 - 12.5ish all around) that the car had crappy handling, but like I mentioned before a car running like 11.5" all around will really benefit from removing the spacer.
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Old 08-30-2007, 02:06 AM   #11
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Well then it sounds like the spacer is needed, I was just thinking about that because I wanted to try and run closer to 12.5 all around, but at 12.75-13 as it was the car handled great.

Now I just have to wait to hear back from tein. How long did you run without that spacer? Do you think it would be safe to drive like that for a while? Like I said I really wanted to make it out to that techday, but I don't want to further damage anything on the way there.
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Old 08-30-2007, 02:16 AM   #12
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i drove like that for like 6 months, but it was only maybe 3k miles in that time since i drive the car seldom. even took it to a few autocrosses. It wont break on you just may not drive quite as nicely. You wanna get that fixed eventually.
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Old 08-30-2007, 02:35 AM   #13
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Ya, I want to get that fixed as soon as possible, but it's nice to know that I can drive on it without destroying other stuff. I'm almost more pissed that I will probably have to get it re-aligned after I fix the shock. I'll try and mark where the perch was as best I can, but I don't know if it will be exactly the same.
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Old 08-30-2007, 03:01 AM   #14
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If you mark the perch, it shouldnt mess up your alignment enough to worry about it. Ride height does change campber and toe a little bit but if the height change is less than a quarter inch I wouldn't bother unless you are racing to win every weekend.
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Old 08-30-2007, 11:38 AM   #15
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I would be ******* pissed where those new no new part should be that fuckng cheap esp one that expensive
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Old 08-30-2007, 03:35 PM   #16
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I've had them for less than 6 months so they are still pretty damn new. I'm just hoping that Tein aren't dicks about this whole thing.
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Old 08-30-2007, 03:45 PM   #17
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Make sure you get labor to replace the shock
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Old 08-30-2007, 05:21 PM   #18
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Ok, well I talked to the place where I bought the shock from and they weren't that helpful. Pretty much said that I over-torqued the nut and that this thing isn't covered under a warranty. Said that I have to get some numbers off of the shock and send it back to tein, who charge $75 to rebuild the shock and if its the part he's thinking, $60 for the part that is broken.

I personally think this is some bull ****, as I know that I didn't over-torque the nut, and that it shouldn't have broken like that. I may try emilio700 and try and get in touch with someone at tein.

On the up side, there was a spacer underneath the nut that was being tightened that when removed exposes more threads. I may put the nut on there for now, but I am still concerned because the pin that is pushed down by the adjuster to adjust the shock strength is sticking out of the top, where I doubt it should be, and I am worried that if I drive it like this I may cause further damage to the shock.

Why didn't I just go koni...
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Old 08-30-2007, 05:22 PM   #19
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how long ago did you buy these? (cancel the charge)
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Old 08-30-2007, 05:40 PM   #20
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6 months ago. I think its a bit late for that, I just need to get in touch with someone at Tein. I would think that they would try and to what they can to help out with this kind of thing as it would tarnish their reputation which is usually quite good.
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