why do I not want to use the AEM engine management?
 

I was previously dead-set on MS, but I want to be sure I make the best decision. People seem to think Link is crap generally, because AEM does more for the same price. So, since I have the money to play with, why do I not want to go with AEM?


...it will work with the AC right? If I get a wide band, do I need something like the LC-1, or just the sensor?



I didn't know what forum to put this in, so its in here.

Based on your other posts, it seems that you lean toward plug and play so AEM/Hydra/link sounds right up your alley.

Do it. I would have, but i can't afford the AEM right now, but i can afford the hours and hours it takes to go MS.

I found out that after I'm done in OKC ( I live in dallas) I'm probably going to Atlanta. I'm now essentially going to attempt to do a 1.8 swap, torsen rear end, 01 sport brakes, turbo install, stand alone engine management, and get RA-1's, all for one track day in june...then not drive the car again until october or so.


lol

why would I do AEM over the link?


Anyone know about the AC conundrum, or the wideband questions?

I'd like to know what the AEM can do that the MS and link can't.

Link is less powerful than both the AEM and Hydra, but does have a lot more use/experience so there are some pretty solid maps out there for the link + very experienced support from FM. AEM/Hydra has more resolution and better fine tuning + other options such as launch control/etc...

Really depends on whether the extra fine tuning and options are worth it to you. FWIW, I tracked my piggyback EMB without any issues so YMMV.

Everyone says link is "less powerfull," but never elaborate.

OK, the Link has fewer features that some newer ECUs have. But it has the biggies: full fuel control, full timing control, datalogging, closed or open loop boost control, closed loop fuel control with a wideband (open loop in boost without a wb), knock sensing, IAT sensor post intercooler, MAP based. It has the keypad which is kind of neat. The P-Link is kick ass, there is no competitor for that right now.

The AEM and Hydra have more capabilities than the Link. The Link is maxed out, it has no more room to expand. The others have multiple extra inputs and outputs that can pretty much do whatever--Fancy stuff like launch control, extra injector drivers, water injection control, NOS control, outputs that could be used for warning lamps or different triggers, or pretty much whatever you could think of. I think they both have barometric correction, too--Not sure don't take my word for it.

The Link is trully PNP, it has the female miata harness terminal. The AEM is also PNP, it has a generic multi connector terminal. The Hydra is only PNP because it comes with a patch harness--like a boomslang for the emanage.

The Link and the Hydra come with FM's support. Which means that somebody reliable is always willing to help you tackle problems and go over your maps. The AEM has support similar to MS--it has some dedicated followers who graciously volunteer to help, but there is no promise of receiving help or resolution to a problem.

You know I went with the Link. I know it leaves features on the table that I may possibly want/need one day. But it's simple to use compared to the AEM and Hydra, and has all sorts of real support. The Hydra is more difficult to install and tune, but also has real support. The AEM is probably around the same difficulty as the Hydra.

I know this has been posted before

From turbotim: Real time tuning? Sucked datalogging, making changes, uploading changes, redatalogging, etc

If you can't tune on the fly that =the suck

Best overall elaboration :) i've seen yet. Thanks ben.

Sounds like the only thing the link is missing is WI control. I don't understand why so many people say "omg aem/hydra is so much better!!" unless they think the extra map resolution is that big a deal. it's not like we're running 1000hp RX7s with 65000cc injectors here.

I'm seriously thinking link is the best option for me.

Hustler,

If you go with the Link and the 99 engine swap, the only thing is you'll need to use your old alternator. The NB alternator is externally regulated by the ECU. The NA alternator has an internal voltage regulator. The Link doesn't have an extra output to control the alternator, so you'll just use your old one.

That's probably the real reason why FM didn't develop the Link for the NB, but the work around is pretty simple.

IMO, the Link may not be the most powerful solution, but it's the easiest. That was important in my decision as it is my first time dealing with a stand alone. It's a good project for someone who can devote only a limited amount of time, but still expect it to work properly. My next ECU will be something more advanced.

Of course, my first Link had issues, and I haven't received the replacement yet, so...

do I need an lc-1, or can I just run the wideband without the controller?

the lc-1 is the controller. the sensor is a bosch, don't know the model # from the top of my head.

you'll need the lc-1 controller and bosch sensor. that's the package you see at $199 retail. you can't simply hook up a wb sensor to the Link. When the controller is hooked up to the Link, it will run closed loop fueling. Replacement sensors are $50, and last a long time.

You can hook up the NGK sensor straight to the Hydra, assuming that the Hydra WB option is unlocked. There seems to be some controversy as to the lifespan of the NGK sensor connected to the Hydra. The same sensor will go for 100k miles in a Civic (it's OEM for Honda in some apps), but there are reports of it dying after 600 or so hours in other applications. Replacement sensors are $150. FM recommends removing the sensor after tuning is complete, so the Hydra runs open loop in boost.

thanks. I assume the AC will work with Link too?

yeah of course. Also controls the idle valve and you have several options for the cooling fans too.

That sounds much better than what I went through with Haltech. Triggers didn't work with their corresponding assignments, the wideband voltage never read out, kept burning up coils, ... It was fucking hell.


i'm really thinking about link, lc-1, begi manifold, begi dp, begi coolant reroute pipes, truck shop oil lines, ebay turbo, stripes ic, bosch bov, manual boost controller, dxd sintered iron clutch, and 3" exhaust. I think I can do all that for $4k.

THere is a new AEM box comming out. Think of it as an AEM lite and its a piggy back. Look into that. I think FM is working on making it a PnP

I just need something that will control fuel, spark, knock, MAP, and simple to install. I considered EMU, but its a gang-fucking to hook up, and too much piggy back crap.

sounds good. don't know how well the stripes kit would work with bell's stuff as stripes pipes were mocked around a greddy 1.6. you might want to get BEGi charge tubes, and if you want to save a little bit, use an ebay FMIC instead of a Bell Intercooler.

No matter which ECU you go with, you can get a boost selenoid and run closed loop boost control. You won't need the MBC.

Don't know anything about a dxd clutch.

My 1.8 ACT went in today, but I haven't driven it yet. Tomorrow I am hoping to have some time to wire up my wastegate and go for a ride. I'll comment on it once I have an opinion.

It looks to be essentially an emanage blue with better injector control. The EMU will probably be a better choice. If you're going to spend money on engine management, get something that removes the AFM!

Where does megasquirt fit into all of this? From my limited understanding it seems to be equivilent to the AEM, just needs assembly, correct?

lets take a look then guys. I'm not sure what all the EMU or EMB do

http://www.aempower.com/ViewCategory...CategoryID=116

It's a emb but with emu injector drivers and a usb port. Not worth getting fired up about.

Unless Hustler has a OB2 Vehicle (96+) the AEM wouldn't be a option anyways

If i had the $$ to spend, id go with Hydra / Link / Xede / AEM, but im a cheap bastard so it's a $400-500 MS for me :gay:

if ihad the money, i'd spend $300 on the ms again and spend the other 800-1700 on something useful, like some coilovers.

then link it is!

find a used one. I sold my link for under 1000 here a while ago :( cuz I needed to money to fun a trip to Israel

I hope so. I'm always afraid to pony up that much cash on a sale like that...like I'm asking someone to run off with my cash.

p.s I ment the piggy back AEM unit not the standalone......I've got a OBD1 car and running the AEM EMS

Running it huh when did you install it?

typo.....should have said .....when I get back from Iraq It'll be running it;)

Can you explain why the AEM is not an option on earilier miatas?

If this info is already posted, sorry:

AEM EMS and link both work with A/C, I'm sure Hydra does too or else FM wouldnt' sell it. You cannot just hook up a WBO2 sensor directly to either, you need some sort of controller. (The AEM EMS race/non-PNP box allows direct hook up to a bosch sensor I think).

I think this is just marketing. They are pushing the piggy towards those who have OBDII inspections as they would rather sell the more expensive standalone to everybody else.