Wiring up an LC1
#23
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#24
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this help any?
http://www.autozone.com/R,APP231025/...ductDetail.htm
http://www.autozone.com/R,APP231025/...ductDetail.htm
Any other cars use the same sensor?
http://www.autozone.com/selectedZip,.../selectZip.htm
http://www.autozone.com/R,APP237298/...ductDetail.htm
#27
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As for the lighting for the gauges, I had a great idea to do without a add a circuit. The day time running light plug under our dashes has a ground and a 12v switched, so I will be using that for the gauges. I need to find out if it has a 12v that power up with the head lights so I can have my DB gauge dim when they are on.
I didnt bother with the add a circuit because A. I bought one that was to big, because the fuse box accepts only Mini add a circuits and B. After I remembered the plug it made no sense anymore.
edit: but if you still want an add a circuit, I got mine at autozone for the awesomely raping price of 8 dollars.
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Alright I got a check engine light today. I am guessing its because the NB sensor is just hanging around in fresh air.
Other then sending my LC1's emulated signal to the factory ECU what else do I have to do?
I am concerned about the heater circuit potentially causing a check engine light if I remove the NB sensor.
btw, How do I reset the computer in my 97? I am also guessing I cant check it for codes with a flashing response since its an OBD2.
Other then sending my LC1's emulated signal to the factory ECU what else do I have to do?
I am concerned about the heater circuit potentially causing a check engine light if I remove the NB sensor.
btw, How do I reset the computer in my 97? I am also guessing I cant check it for codes with a flashing response since its an OBD2.
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What do you mean standalone, you mean not have it emulate the NB signal?
Whats sensor drift?
Eventually I could run two sensors in the DP. Not a problem if emulating causes issues. But for now I wouldnt mind getting rid of the CEL. I can probably scavenge a free O2 sensor to wire the signal too so I dont have to destroy mine.
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FWIW, I found it easier to just put a second bung into my DP and run both sensors. The NB is up in the usual location just aft of the turbine outlet, and the WB is further down about a foot upstream of the cat.
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You could make the connection inside the car by cutting the signal wire from the front NB to the ECU and splicing the LC-1's "NB" output into that line. No need to destroy an O2 sensor, though it'll still need to be there to dissipate some current on the heater line. (If you really wanted to get fancy, you could build a heater simulator out of a big power resistor and find some way to heat-sink it very well. Water-cooled perhaps.)
FWIW, I found it easier to just put a second bung into my DP and run both sensors. The NB is up in the usual location just aft of the turbine outlet, and the WB is further down about a foot upstream of the cat.
FWIW, I found it easier to just put a second bung into my DP and run both sensors. The NB is up in the usual location just aft of the turbine outlet, and the WB is further down about a foot upstream of the cat.
For now I will try to scavenge an o2 sensor to cut up. Afterwards I will just put in an extra bung into the exhaust to keep things simpler.
I am just curious. If the sensor barely gets warm to the touch, why would I need a watercooled resistor to simulate it? It couldnt be eating up that much juice. More info would help because I would consider doing this.
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Honestly, I never bothered measuring the heater current. You're probably right- a decent metal-case resistor properly heat-sunk to chassis should suffice. If anybody knows what the average heater current is, we can spec a resistor value.