WOOT! I broke something!
:giggle:yup, I think its the driveshaft. Heard a snap, then a rattling like something was spining against something else. On Stock power, thats how badass I am. Anyone guestimate how much to replace?
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1.6 or 1.8? Sure it wasnt the diff?
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Originally Posted by icantthink4155
(Post 256731)
:giggle:yup, I think its the driveshaft. Heard a snap, then a rattling like something was spining against something else. On Stock power, thats how badass I am. Anyone guestimate how much to replace?
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I dont think it was the diff, I dont see any damage to it? This is my first RWD, so this is me assuming its the drivesshaft, it sounded like it was spinning loose.
also its a 1990 1.6 2dr vert:giggle: |
Might want to look up under the car before you start buying ;) Removing the DS is pretty simple.
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when your driveshaft falls off, you'll know its the driveshaft.
The car will first vibrate when accelerating, then when it releases it will make a sound like ultimate death as it spins and hits the PPF and other parts, then if it falls and releases, it will hit everything under the car and you wont be able to accelerate anymore. |
there isnt anything hanging underneath.
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I'm betting ring or pinion gear.
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You are not that badass, it was your diff. Welcome to the club.
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I was turning onto my street, I heard a snap, the car stoped accelerating, and it made a horrible rattling noise, which made me think the DS was spinning loose against everything it could find, but there isnt anything hanging under the car, no oil or anything, and the diff doesnt look damaged from the outside.
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person #1: I think i broke my driveshaft.
person #2: Hmm, think you should inspect it to make absolutely certain? person #1: No, it's broke, nothing hanging. |
hay guyz i hav 1 of the weakest diffz available 4 da miatazzzz in my whip butt i think i broke the driveshafttt wut do u guyz think lol there isnt nething hanging
You probably fucked up your diff. |
Originally Posted by icantthink4155
(Post 256749)
d the diff doesnt look damaged from the outside.
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Like I said this is my first RWD, Im just explaining the noise the best I know how.
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Originally Posted by icantthink4155
(Post 256749)
and the diff doesnt look damaged from the outside.
It usually won't. |
If it makes you feel better.. I broke my 1.6 diff like immediately after buying my car :)
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Originally Posted by BenR
(Post 256755)
It usually won't.
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ok so is there anyway to know for sure what I did in my APT parking lot?
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Easily. Jack it up- both rears in the air. Uncouple the driveshaft from the diff (four bolts). With the brake off, spin the rear wheels by hand. If the diff is chunky salsa, you'll know.
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Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 256758)
You have to really, properly fuck it up to blow the case apart. It's an exclusive club. :fawk:
No one likes a braggadocio. :fawk: |
lifted the drivers side rear, driveshaft is still bolted and looks ok. Do I have to replace the entire diff or just the gears?
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Originally Posted by icantthink4155
(Post 256773)
lifted the drivers side rear, driveshaft is still bolted and looks ok. Do I have to replace the entire diff or just the gears?
http://www.miata.net/garage/diffguide/01.jpg Thats your diff on the right. You can get it back on the road w/ another 1.6, but I would recommend a 1.8. Hell you can find even a 1.8 open on the cheap. |
Im sure it was the diff, I blew mine 3 weeks ago and it was the first time I blew a diff in any car. At first i thought it was the drive shaft beacuse of the vibration in the shifter but it was just the vibration from the diff down the driveshaft. I find it hard to believe that anyone could break a drive shaft on stock power, if installed correctly.
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ok so which years 1.8 diff will work with a 1990 1.6?
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http://members.aol.com/solomiata/Drivetrain.html
and this will help when shopping http://www.miata.net/garage/diffguide/index.html |
I figured you need to hear one more time to believe everyone else.
IT'S YOUR DIFF. Complete 1.8 diff swaps are found fairly easily, make sure you get a complete swap, though, otherwise you have to worry about interchangable parts etc. I highly recomend you get a RX-7 clutchpack as well since you are already at the best time to upgrade to a LSD. Now go utilize the search function and leave me alone to scratch my nuts. |
Thank you Newbsause
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ok I just checked a few yards around here only 1 has any miatas out of 5, and they dont have any 94s for a 90 dif was told $470
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ok to the linkes newbsause posted, is it just a 94 that would work?
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http://car-part.com/
Any '94-'05 will do, so long as you get the driveshaft and axles. If you can get the axles with the hubs still attached, all the better- they'll bolt right onto your 1.6 control arms, so you don't have to move heaven and earth to get the axles nuts undone. If you want a Torsen, use the following chart to determine whether or not your donor car came with one. http://www.miata.net/faq/Miata90-97A3.pdf |
ok anything 94 or newer with a 1.8 and I need the driveshaft, halfshafts and a diff, anything else Im gonna need to do the swap?
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When I did the swap in my first miata I found a full rear subframe and drive shaft and swapped it all in one shot. It was actually cheaper that way.
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I am far from being that lucky, far far far far far. I can barely even find any Miatas in the area. I might just go sit in the car and cry
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Originally Posted by icantthink4155
(Post 256811)
ok anything 94 or newer with a 1.8 and I need the driveshaft, halfshafts and a diff, anything else Im gonna need to do the swap?
Oh, and a chisel. |
Look in the classfieds on all the Miata forums, that will be your best bet if car-part doesn't come up with anything.
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yeah I mailed a few people on the m.net classifieds.
Why a chisel? |
You'll figure it out when you remove your diff...d'oh, said too much ;)
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oh crap, would a diff from an auto work? or does it have to be a manual?
I have the manual 5spd |
This appears to be what I want... Is it? http://www.miata.net/cgi-bin/isc/cla...revaction=show
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Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 256758)
You have to really, properly fuck it up to blow the case apart. It's an exclusive club. :fawk:
http://www.systemstrategies.com/miata/IMG_7707.JPG |
showoff!
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Originally Posted by Chris Swearingen
(Post 256839)
:bowrofl: How the hell did that happen? Any pics of the internals? That very well could be worse than Savington's. |
Originally Posted by icantthink4155
(Post 256837)
This appears to be what I want... Is it? http://www.miata.net/cgi-bin/isc/cla...revaction=show
oh crap, would a diff from an auto work? |
awesome
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Originally Posted by crashnscar
(Post 256847)
:eek5:
:bowrofl: How the hell did that happen? Any pics of the internals? That very well could be worse than Savington's. How did it happen? Take one supercharged miata + a 1.6 diff and loan it to your high school senior son to use in a movie project then call the tow truck. In fairness to him it had been whining a bit and I knew it was on its last legs. |
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Lmfao, man would i be stoked if my dad lent me a ubercharged miata for any reason- especially if i was still in highschool.
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Originally Posted by Chris Swearingen
(Post 256839)
holy crap. that one is broke proper. spit the bearings through the case! |
Call partsgroup. The guy there has everything, and most at a decent price. I get stuff from them all the time. After my last "emergency", I got the parts in 1 day.
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I looked on their website they didnt have what I needed.
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To do a 1.8 swap, either open or limited slip...
You will need the driveshaft, axles, complete housing and diff unit from a 94-05 car. Expect to spend between 600-900 bucks for everything if its a limited slip, 300-600 if its an open (based off what I have seen). Sound about right guys? |
If you want i have a parts car and will sell you any thing needed to fix it 90 running gear.
p.s. the differential I have is open, but it stronger because instead of putting the stress on the ring and pin. you just do a burn out. |
oh yeah bitches.... i don't have any pics... but i snapped a PPF in half :) Several people in Ga can vouch for me.
Actually, i snapped the top half at one point (didn't realize it, i thought i ripped a diff mount because when i would get on the throttle the shift lever would torque over to one side HARD) and then i went to the Gap and drove the snot out of the car. I was on my way home from The Gap, about 10mi, and the bottom part snapped and the whole drivetrain was hanging down about 6in. I win. |
Im in communication with someone that has a 1.8swap
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Originally Posted by icantthink4155
(Post 257283)
Im in communication with someone that has a 1.8swap
Can provide a 1.8 swap with either a torsen or open diff. http://fireswamp.net/~stan/cars.jpg |
deliverator Responded to your PM
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ok so Ive been reading up on this, saw a few posts that say chisel off a spacer, and remove the exhaust and alot of stuff that seems very time consuming so I have some questions. If Im just swapping it all out, do I still need to do all this? Can I take the current diff out with the halfshafts still attached? Can I put the new one in with them attached? Is there any chance of the driveshaft being rusting in the transmission?
Also what is the PPF? |
Originally Posted by icantthink4155
(Post 257962)
ok so Ive been reading up on this, saw a few posts that say chisel off a spacer, and remove the exhaust and alot of stuff that seems very time consuming so I have some questions. If Im just swapping it all out, do I still need to do all this? Can I take the current diff out with the halfshafts still attached? Can I put the new one in with them attached? Is there any chance of the driveshaft being rusting in the transmission?
Also what is the PPF? The swap itself is and isn't time consuming. If you know what your doing it can be done fairly quickly. If you don't, you will not do it quickly. Certain things can affect the speed of it... namely rusted shit. My axle was seized and consumed about 5 hours of effort and a broken extractor. You will want to disconnect the 4 bolts holding the stubshafts onto the axle, and drop it that way. Then pull the axles out. The rust will not be on the driveshaft as much as it is on every single nut and bolt under the car :) Edit ** I apologize but i'm getting ready to leave work and i just used the first underbody pic i could find. 1> is where you will disconnect your stubs 2> is a general area where your driveshaft bolts will disconnect 3> are the spline nuts that connect the PPF to the diff http://i26.tinypic.com/iy323r.jpg |
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