This appears to be what I want... Is it? http://www.miata.net/cgi-bin/isc/cla...revaction=show
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Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 256758)
You have to really, properly fuck it up to blow the case apart. It's an exclusive club. :fawk:
http://www.systemstrategies.com/miata/IMG_7707.JPG |
showoff!
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Originally Posted by Chris Swearingen
(Post 256839)
:bowrofl: How the hell did that happen? Any pics of the internals? That very well could be worse than Savington's. |
Originally Posted by icantthink4155
(Post 256837)
This appears to be what I want... Is it? http://www.miata.net/cgi-bin/isc/cla...revaction=show
oh crap, would a diff from an auto work? |
awesome
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Originally Posted by crashnscar
(Post 256847)
:eek5:
:bowrofl: How the hell did that happen? Any pics of the internals? That very well could be worse than Savington's. How did it happen? Take one supercharged miata + a 1.6 diff and loan it to your high school senior son to use in a movie project then call the tow truck. In fairness to him it had been whining a bit and I knew it was on its last legs. |
1 Attachment(s)
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Lmfao, man would i be stoked if my dad lent me a ubercharged miata for any reason- especially if i was still in highschool.
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Originally Posted by Chris Swearingen
(Post 256839)
holy crap. that one is broke proper. spit the bearings through the case! |
Call partsgroup. The guy there has everything, and most at a decent price. I get stuff from them all the time. After my last "emergency", I got the parts in 1 day.
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I looked on their website they didnt have what I needed.
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To do a 1.8 swap, either open or limited slip...
You will need the driveshaft, axles, complete housing and diff unit from a 94-05 car. Expect to spend between 600-900 bucks for everything if its a limited slip, 300-600 if its an open (based off what I have seen). Sound about right guys? |
If you want i have a parts car and will sell you any thing needed to fix it 90 running gear.
p.s. the differential I have is open, but it stronger because instead of putting the stress on the ring and pin. you just do a burn out. |
oh yeah bitches.... i don't have any pics... but i snapped a PPF in half :) Several people in Ga can vouch for me.
Actually, i snapped the top half at one point (didn't realize it, i thought i ripped a diff mount because when i would get on the throttle the shift lever would torque over to one side HARD) and then i went to the Gap and drove the snot out of the car. I was on my way home from The Gap, about 10mi, and the bottom part snapped and the whole drivetrain was hanging down about 6in. I win. |
Im in communication with someone that has a 1.8swap
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Originally Posted by icantthink4155
(Post 257283)
Im in communication with someone that has a 1.8swap
Can provide a 1.8 swap with either a torsen or open diff. http://fireswamp.net/~stan/cars.jpg |
deliverator Responded to your PM
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ok so Ive been reading up on this, saw a few posts that say chisel off a spacer, and remove the exhaust and alot of stuff that seems very time consuming so I have some questions. If Im just swapping it all out, do I still need to do all this? Can I take the current diff out with the halfshafts still attached? Can I put the new one in with them attached? Is there any chance of the driveshaft being rusting in the transmission?
Also what is the PPF? |
Originally Posted by icantthink4155
(Post 257962)
ok so Ive been reading up on this, saw a few posts that say chisel off a spacer, and remove the exhaust and alot of stuff that seems very time consuming so I have some questions. If Im just swapping it all out, do I still need to do all this? Can I take the current diff out with the halfshafts still attached? Can I put the new one in with them attached? Is there any chance of the driveshaft being rusting in the transmission?
Also what is the PPF? The swap itself is and isn't time consuming. If you know what your doing it can be done fairly quickly. If you don't, you will not do it quickly. Certain things can affect the speed of it... namely rusted shit. My axle was seized and consumed about 5 hours of effort and a broken extractor. You will want to disconnect the 4 bolts holding the stubshafts onto the axle, and drop it that way. Then pull the axles out. The rust will not be on the driveshaft as much as it is on every single nut and bolt under the car :) Edit ** I apologize but i'm getting ready to leave work and i just used the first underbody pic i could find. 1> is where you will disconnect your stubs 2> is a general area where your driveshaft bolts will disconnect 3> are the spline nuts that connect the PPF to the diff http://i26.tinypic.com/iy323r.jpg |
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