well I will hopefully have mine plugged in and cranking tonight. I'll post up if I do.

I'm another one on the fence as well, but I'm waiting for someone to get one running without issues and controlling vvt in an 01+ car.

Ben,

it should be trivial to set up ANY ecu to run parallel with no codes. I was going to do it with the hydra, but I'm going to play with the adaptronic to do it instead.

you need a short list of items to make the stock ecu happy:

good sensor data (shared or duplicated--knock, AIT, CLT, etc)
adequate MAF data (provided by a 3D output from whatever ECU clamped to a min and max voltage for the MAF input on the stock ECU)
and reasonably well tuned AFRs where the stock ECU runes closed loop.

I ran a Tec3 virtually CEL free. My issue was that I never delved into the specific voltages the MAF needed in a stall situation. if I never stalled the car, i'd never throw a code. problem was, the ECU was giving a high voltage at 0rpm compared to stock.

after Reading The Fucking Manual, I found the required voltages for key on and idle. the rest is gravy.

I understand the concept Matt. I want to see it work. I have no desire to spend money to be in the same situation I'm already in.

So does this thing have a MAF clamp?

Closed loop timing is pretty pimp.

Travis, how are the air and water temp sensors handled?

Water, MAF, and Air are wired through a set of resistors to give Voltage values that don't set off the CEL's This is something that adaptronic evidently tested and it works very well.


Yea you could do that, and I just noticed your profile says you have a 96, which I don't have a plug and play harness for. Does anyone know if the 96 has the same weird alternator control? What about an immobilizer?

The only reason these cars use the second E.C.U. is because it controls the alternator and it lessons the amount of aux outs you have to use on non-performance items. I understand from a general complexity issue it seems simpler, but you would completely not notice the stock ECU was even there. Its just a dummy box that controls a few things that have nothing to do with engine performance.

that's intriguing if not a little sneaky.

I'm surprised they didn't just leave the pullup off and use the stock bias.

what does this do to the actual temp values the stock ecu sees and how does the adaptronic account for that? just use different calibration values for the strange values?

after seeing stein's clt sensor high code issue, I wonder if it's related.

oh and here's a fun project. mapping the adaptronic pinout into excel.

next is to add the miata specific ECU pin in a column.

oh and I did have a couple more specific questions:

1. Ignition 4 (aka Aux 1) also has a 560 ohm pull-up resistor when it's enabled as IGN 4?

2. WBO2.com (tech edge) isn't super clear on their serial formats, but am I correct in assuming that the 2A0 (now discontinued) is the wrong format for the serial O2 interface?

3. I think you mentioned this already... but VVT by MAP and RPM would have to be done either by setting the aux 3 out to the Igntion Map 2 or Fuel Map 2... same if I wanted to do any other 3D output map like ?

I posted an excel sheet for the 1.6-> Adaptronic in the Adaptronic sub-forum. I know its not the right year for you, but its a start.

https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t32223/#post377214

I anyone running the Adaptronic as a full standalone unit, no parallel or factory ECU? Particularly on the 99-00?

as far as I know me and Stein are the only ones on here that have these (so far) on 99-00.....The adaptronic is available only as parallel unless you want to make your own circuit to control alternator/etc....If I'm wrong Travis can correct me

Yea, thats the real problem. From what I understand even the hydra has some problems controlling the alternator fully.

1.) I believe thats correct, I've never used the full sequential ignition before.

2.) I've sent a message to rob the designer about this.

3.) You set one of the first 3 aux outs with the PWM to VVT1. Then you goto special functions tab and select from the drop down ignition map 2 or whatever your not using. This map then becomes the target angle in degrees instead of ignition degrees. I will have to check on using the 3D maps for other purposes to. I'm not sure that the 3D maps can be used for just anything.

I think that that causes CELs, because the engine goes through a set of warmup functions that require specific responses from the motor. Doing it this way I believe it locks water temperature at 185-190, air temperature at 70, AFM at idle. This keeps the motor in eternal happyness where it doesn't have to do alot of controlling.

The adaptronic is actually fed the correct values, the stock ECU can't see any of the this.

Stein's CELs are almost definitely related to a ground loop interference.

Well, I switched the ground wire but I'm still having a problem.

I cleared the two codes that will clear with my scanner. THe P0335 won't clear. Car started fine. I drove it and got into boost. It felt wierd so I went home. I didn't log the boosted run. I did log a bit on the way home. Ign is showing 0.2 deg. across the board. It never changes. Shut it off and logged startup. Starts at 7* and immediately goes to 0.2* when it fires.

All of the codes are back along with a new one P0300 Random cylinder misfire.

I pulled my plugs. They were slightly white on the bottom electode with spotless insulators, AFR's were in the 10's.

I can't believe that it was running at 0.2*. Out of boost it drove normally so it must have some retard.

Heading out of town today and won't be home until later tomorrow night so I won't be able to address it again until then.

Thinking that my CAS might still be bad. I'm going to exchange it for another one.

Even with the grounding switched, previously logged runs showed the Ign changing as needed to follow the base map. It's not getting a CAS signal.

Mondays and Tuesdays I just get killed sorry I haven't been around. Let me know how it turns out, I'll ask Rob about the codes. He has said they set the harness up to pass emissions, we shouldn't be having problems with error codes.

Travis

Travis, when are you closing the order? (Didn't want to ask in the other thread)

I was hoping to close it today, I'm open to keeping it up for a couple more days if you just need time to get funds in order, and you are sure you want to buy.

I'm very interested, but would like to see if Stein is able to resolve his CEL issue.

Like Ben, I had Xede. The false CEL was annoying and would prevent the car from passing an OBD-II scan. I'd like a solution that would be 100% "legal" in the eyes of our Emissions testing station.

Alright this is the way I'm going to do it.

I'm taking money in check, or cashiers check. I am offering paypal, but the cost to me is too high on a small margin, so include 2.9% +29 cents on your order if you choose this method. If you are not sure about it yet and you want to wait that is ok. I am making the deadline for money next Wednesday. So it needs to arrive in some way or another by then. If you wait until next wednesday to decide you'll have to pay the extra little paypal fee. Its still a great deal though compared to the 989 it'll be at after the G.B.

Also its not entirely obvious by my posts but for those who are buying just the box, but you have to source the MAP or get it from me. The map is a flat 50 extra for either version, and that includes a pigtail connector color coded to the instructions I posted on its install.

If you are from another country contract me before making payment. There might be additional shipping charges/duties involved. Also if you want another shipping type besides USPS please let me know.

Happy? :giggle:

but paypal only charges 2.9% + 30 cents!

/cheap bastard

Travis, I pmed you yesterday so maybe you're referring to me when you mention "another country"; just to clarify: I keep a paypal account and a forwarding address in Miami for shipping purposes. ;)