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Anyone have a fuel map to share for 1.6 & 700's

Anyone have a fuel map to share for 1.6 & 700's

Old 12-31-2017, 01:20 PM
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Default Anyone have a fuel map to share for 1.6 & 700's

Hey guys, just fired up my 1.6 with FM's II kit. She's running awfully rich at 9.3. I intend to take into get tuned after the holiday, but I'm really hesitant to start tinkering with the maps....yet, I don't think I could pull the thing out of the drive with it so rich.
Any pointers on getting my AFR numbers up a bit? The car ran perfectly fine before installing the kit.
My MAP gauge, at idle is around 39 kPa which seems to agree well with my mechanical boost gauge around 20"; RPM is around 940

Here's what is on my fuel map, forgive my ignorance on how to screen shoot well:
750 RPM 1000 RPM
42 kPa 0.573 0.563
35 kPa 0.399 0.389

Here's where my tuning ignorance kicks in: I thought the ECU would auto-tune the fuel down, given the rich read, but it seems dead locked at 9.3. Does the map keep the ECU bounded? Or is the adjustment needed is so much that it's beyond the capability for the ECU to compensate and hence the manual adjustment of the map to dial it in?
It would be helpful to see someone else's fuel map on a 1.6 to compare, granted I know the injectors will make a difference. Anyone willing so share?
Thank you.
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Old 12-31-2017, 04:59 PM
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I noticed today upon initial startup the AFR's were dead nuts at 14.7, then about 60 seconds into warm up they dove down to 9.8....hit the autotune button a few times and it kept leaning it out with no change to the read. Makes me think something is up with the wideband. Not enough grounding to the ECU?
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Old 12-31-2017, 07:09 PM
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adjust your temperature compensation curve for uhhh whats it called.... fuel something?? By default its too aggressive.
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Old 12-31-2017, 08:05 PM
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Do you mean the "Port Temperature Fuel Trim"? It looks like this right now? By aggressive, you mean too steep, flatten out?
*F -4 14 32 50 68 86 104 122 140 158 176 194 212 230 248 266
% Base Fuel 21 18.2 15.4 12.6 9.8 7.0 4.2 1.4 -1.4 -4.2 -7.0 -9.8 -12.6 -15.4 -18.2 -21
I don't know if I'd see the odd behavior I'm seeing by the trim being too aggressive.

What is odd is that the car will start out at 14.7, then hunts lean, hunts rich, and settles and stays at 9.7. I tried modifying a couple cells where the car is at (just idling) using the autotune button and appeared that it was leaning out the fuel, yet the AFR readout stayed at 9.7- I'm no tuner, but this seems odd that I tweak the cell that I'm in and there is no change in the AFR. I recalibrated the WBO2. The zero was within a point from FM and the gradient went about 10 "units" lower than what FM had...yet, had no affect on the staring out OK (AFR wise), seeking after a few seconds, then settling at 9.7-9.8.

Funky WBO2? It's been sitting in a box, dry, for a couple years- Seems strange to be bad out of the box. Yet, exhaust is black and strong odor. I've got an appointment to bring it to a tuner on Friday, yet I don't even know if this thing is good to drive. Tuner is 35 miles away and it won't help me if the sensor is shot. I double checked the pins going into the hydra, looks good. I even added another ground to the harness.

One thing I do note is the voltage seems low, hovering around 10.78, yet I've read Hydra typically reads low.

Sorry for the long read, but what little logging I've done, one strange thing is that the TPS is indicating a couple blips 100%, which isn't right- especially when the RPM also show an corresponding increase, but only around a max of 2200. Makes me wonder if my TPS is out of adjustment or needs re-calibrating.

Any other ideas of what to log to troubleshoot what is going on?
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Old 12-31-2017, 09:37 PM
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Ok, went through the TPS settings. Looks like Hydra only sees the three position as two, 0% or 100%. That makes more sense from what I saw in the data.

What is odd is the AFR will cruise closely around 14.7 for a few moments upon startup, then will quickly go lean for about a second, then goes rich and settles at 9.8. What is weird is that the AFR stays at 9.8, even when I turn the engine off, key on, leaving the ECU powered up and connected to the laptop. The last couple of times I connected on startup, before cranking on, connected, the AFR reads 14.7, engine off. I'm beginning to really wonder if the O2 sensor is any good.

I have a second wide band I can put into the upstream bung. I just need to wire it up for power...at least I'd get a second data point??
Any ideas on how to easily get to run in open loop?
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Old 01-01-2018, 05:45 PM
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Ok, been through a lot of hair pulling and there must be a term for someone that populates their own thread.
I tried re-calibrating the WB02 No effect
Installed a bunch of new grounds - No effect
I changed the plugs back to the originals - No effect, they all are black and sooty, not wet, but definitely black (these were brand new).

So I managed to get a good screen shot of the AFR during a data log and initially, the car was off, the first little changes are when I started the car, then one can see how the AFRs start oscillating with increasing amplitude until it dives into a "well" of richness.

I was thinking this was an O2 issue, but beginning to wonder if it isn't a control problem of the injectors? I'm tempted to install some stock injectors, but looking for ideas before I pull more hair out.
Attached Thumbnails Anyone have a fuel map to share for 1.6 & 700's-afrdatalog.jpg  
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Old 01-02-2018, 04:04 PM
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OK. Finally, after a long holiday weekend, had a chance to write a couple professionals about what I was seeing. The advice: drive it and let autotune do its work.
In other words, new FMII kit on a 1.6, with 700s reading rich in the mid 9's initially, totally normal.
Wish I would have known that two days ago.
So far, so fun.
Hopefully, will have an initial dyno tune this Friday.
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Old 01-23-2018, 12:51 AM
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Minor update. After pulling some hair out, getting some third opinions, FM agreed to take the ECU back for eval. Found out today something is definitely wrong with it's power module. Jeremy suspects it may be affecting my rich at idle and cruise condition. So, the ECU is on its way back to Hydra for repair. Broke, brand new, right out of the box. I guess my bad for sitting on the FMII kit for a few years- no the ECU is no longer under warranty.
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Old 01-26-2018, 10:43 PM
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One week later and a few hundred dollars less, I have a fully functional ECU. Apparently several diodes and resistors were burned out on the power circuit. Little rattled it was out of the box this way from FM, but it's fixed and working correctly now. AFRs are around low 14's rather than low 9's
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