Msm Hydra 2.7 problems..
 

Well I've got a 04 mazdaspeed miata with a FM II upgrade running the hydra 2.7 well the car doesn't even have 200 miles running on the kit. I bought the car with the kit already in there when I would start it ran like crap and well after letting it idle for a bit my abs, brake, airbag light all came on and haven't gone away since. I spoke with Jeremy at flyin miata and told me that my hydra never had a base map and that I could've been over charging the system. So I purchased the kit II base map and got it running but still have those lights going off on my cluster.

Checked my fuses and there is a A/B fuse blown I put another 15amp fuse and it blew it again so there is a short going in my circuit. Anyone know what A/B fuse is?

Also when those dash lights came on it blew my bulbs on the tail lights from over powering the system and I believe it ruined my alternator since it won't charge anymore.

You will be talking to FM A LOT more, maps don't translate to alternators, no base map doesn't make sense that FM would sell it that way, what did you do to it since you just bought it? They sold you a base map???

I had been. Well I bought the car from ne'er Washington dc I had it shipped down to Tx I bought the car with a minor front end wreck the owner before me had everything done and I'm guessing the shop that did his work try to tune the car. When I connected the hydra to my computer it said the map was locked. I talked to Jeremy at FM and explained to him my situation and he looked up my hydra in his system and told me it never had a base map set. He told me since I'm the second owner of the car I would have to purchase the base map they offer with the FM II kit. I overwrote the locked map with the new base map and it runs way better. But I've still got the ABS, brake, air bag lights on. I noticed I've got a short since my A/B fuse keeps blowing. What is the A/B fuse for?

The A/B fuse is for ABS. I thought it was for Air Bags, as I found out as well, it isn't (I removed it when I removed the air bags from the car, got the ABS light on, reinstalled the A/B fuse and everything is fine now).

If the A/B fuse keeps blowing, you probably have a short somewhere or the ABS unit got screwed by this constant overvoltage.

I really appreciate it! Would anyone know how it would be the best way to track it down?

Is there a ABS relay in the system I could've messed up?

Maps do relate to alternators. This is an NB.

Disconnect the ABS connector, replace the fuse. If the fuse does not blow again, reconnect the ABS. If the fuse blows now, the ABS is borked. There's no relay involved, the ABS gets its power from the ABS fuse and the main fuse, both of which are hot all the time,

Danny, you need to download the Hydra Tuning manual from FMs website and read the section on setting up the Hydra to properly control the voltage from the alternator. It's not hard. All you need is a digital voltmeter and follow the instructions.

Ken

Thank you for the help! I unplugged my abs pump and sure enough my fuse didn't blow so I guess that traced my problem.

Hi Ken I know what you're talking about I tried it yesterday but I found out my alternator got messed up as well when the voltage shot out. I just got my new alternator this morning I'm about to put it together and see what results I get. What area should my voltage be set at idle?

If he's got an FM map, the alternator voltage is already set. Fuggedahboudit.

Different from car to car. The FM map will not be perfect on every car. Though i agree that for the most part, it should be ok.

Well I had a 00 miata alternator under warranty and it turns out they are different it was making my rpms go nuts! So I just got a actual mazdaspeed I'll be installing sunday. I did mess around with the voltage on the hydra so I'll have to adjust when I put the new alternator. Anyone know what voltage I should run at idle?

Well just an update I changed out the alternator for a msm and turns out that my rpms still go crazy I took apart the cluster I burnt the tachometer when the car went way over voltage on the previous turn.

Question: Anyone on here ever used the flyin miata base map for a hydra? I've got a horrible cold start actually it's pretty bad until I get to warm temp I'm thinking the voltage probably fried my iacv or my tps?

I use base maps from FM frequently since I tune about 8 to 12 Hydras for their customers every year. For the past 2 years or so, the base maps are great. The cars start and idle well. No perfectly, but acceptably. The worst I have seen was a car that required about 3 tires to get started when cold, but once started, it idled fine.

It sounds to me like you have a problem with the electrical system in the car. Over-voltage did not damage your IACV or TPS. Have you measured the voltage at the battery terminals with a digital voltmeter with the engine idling?

Well this is where I'm at now I have replaced my alternator since the previous one wasn't charging I did put a voltmeter to the battery and at idle it was around 11.45v I plugged the hydra to my computer and the graph said the same measurement. After I replaced the alternator my voltage was not reading 13.5ish and was charging my car. But now side effects where rpm on my tachometer going nuts from start of cranking the engine on they would start wrapping the tach. My other side effect was my car wouldn't idle until the car got warm and when it finally started to idle it would be around 500-600 rpms. I traced for a while why my rpm on my tach was going so crazy I figured I might've burnt my cluster when I over shot the voltage. I grabbed an extra cluster I had laying from a older nb and it occurred to be doing the same thing.

Now after having the car idle for a little over 5 mins I noticed my rpm on the tach was starting to chill down. I turned the car off and cranked it on once again and my rpm on the tach didn't move at all. I plugged in my computer to the hydra and noticed my voltage was back at 11.5 and my wideband was just staying put not changing numbers. At this point I'm frustrated so I've sent my ecu over to Jeremy at flyin miata to test for problems.

Good idea, sending the ECU to FM. This way you rule out any issues with the ECU. Let us know what you find out from FM.

Update: Flyin miata has received and checked my ecu. Turns out I've got a bad wideband sensor I don't know how if I don't have more than 100miles on the kit. Also my wideband circuit on the board is dead, The TPS circuit is also dead. Anyone know what kind of sensor I could get for the hydra 2.7 I don't feel like paying $260 for a sensor threw flyin miata. The sensor I've been told I need from hydra is a ntk l2h2 I looked up that sensor and it has a different plug than mine. I've got a 5 pin plug with 2 pins on the top row and 3 on the bottom row plug is shaped in a triangular way.

KO Racing sells the sensor for significantly cheaper.Get the harness at the same time so you can convert over to standard sensor plug. Hydra puts their own plug on this so they can charge more markup. (And to save people from running the wrong sensor.)

Got cha! Well I do need the l2h2 correct? I see on ebay they sell them but it says l2h2 and l1h1
NGK NTK 24300 L2H2 L1H1 5 Wire Wideband Oxygen Sensor | eBay

Yes, l2h2, bear in mind that the Ebay sensor will not PNP into your setup because of the plug. You'd have to convert over to the OEM plug.

Update: I just received my ecu back from hydra. Turns out I burned the output for the wideband and also for tps. It's fixed now and I just got it plugged in my car and calibrated. But I'm having a bad idle problem when it starts it idles really high around 2.5k rpms then it lowers down and begins to bouce between 1300-2000 rpms.

I also ended up buying a NTK 24302 wideband after my old one fried..

I've unplugged the the wideband and the car will finally idle normal. Did I buy the wrong replacement? I bought a 24302 ntk is the 24300 ntk the right one for the hydra 2.7? I also did splice the plug off my old flyin miata sensor and soldered it to my new sensor.

It's a point of debate. Hydra ships with a 24300 version, I would replace with that. 24302 is a lower amperage pump cell and some are claiming it works. I would also crimp rather than solder. Mp 150 male terminals iirc. CONN-56260 plus CONN-56057 seals.

I went ahead and ordered the 24300 I should be receiving this week hopefully it's the right one to be able to finally drive my car correctly. Do you have a link where I could order Mp 150 male terminals iirc. CONN-56260 plus CONN-56057 seals

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I've got the new ntk 24300 on the hydra 2.7 now. Still having issues I really wish I had a haltech :/ When I have the wideband plugged in the car revs up to 3k rpms and slowly comes down to 2k rpms and jumps from 1500-2000 rpms. The wideband isn't getting hot so the heater circuit isn't on. I checked the voltage coming out of the wideband wideband positive and it's at 9.5v hydra says it should be from 9-10v but when the fans on the car turn on the voltage on the positive drops down to a 8.6v. If I have the wideband plugged in and do a voltage check the voltage is at 2.6v.

At this point I really don't know what to do!!! I'm beyond frustrated with the hydra problems.

If the heater circuit isn't working, check to make sure that the pins at the main harness are actually making good contact. I'm not terribly impressed with them. They may be too "compacted" to complete the circuit. If they're suspect, pull 'em back out, spread them a little, shove 'em back in.

Also double check to make sure that the wiring is correct. 2.7 SHOULD have only seen the "new style" wideband harnesses, but with the 2.5 and 2.6 there was some confusion at one point when the new wideband harness was updated. (Colors switched positions.)


I have the pinouts somewhere...

I believe FM made a post somewhere about adding a ground at/near the ECU. If you're seeing a voltage drop with fans on, this might be something worth checking.

I've decided I'm going to send the ecu out to flyin miata to have it tested and fixed if anything might be wrong with it. And I'm going to post it for sale anyone know how much I could get for the Hydra 2.7 with new wideband, Mazdaspeed harness, ecu mount? I'm going to switch over to a haltech sprint 1000

$1200ish would be my guess.

The Haltech is nice, it's what i replaced my Hydra 2.5 with on my MSM.