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Old 10-18-2013, 01:58 AM   #1
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Default Msm Hydra 2.7 problems..

Well I've got a 04 mazdaspeed miata with a FM II upgrade running the hydra 2.7 well the car doesn't even have 200 miles running on the kit. I bought the car with the kit already in there when I would start it ran like crap and well after letting it idle for a bit my abs, brake, airbag light all came on and haven't gone away since. I spoke with Jeremy at flyin miata and told me that my hydra never had a base map and that I could've been over charging the system. So I purchased the kit II base map and got it running but still have those lights going off on my cluster.

Checked my fuses and there is a A/B fuse blown I put another 15amp fuse and it blew it again so there is a short going in my circuit. Anyone know what A/B fuse is?

Also when those dash lights came on it blew my bulbs on the tail lights from over powering the system and I believe it ruined my alternator since it won't charge anymore.
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Old 10-18-2013, 02:13 AM   #2
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You will be talking to FM A LOT more, maps don't translate to alternators, no base map doesn't make sense that FM would sell it that way, what did you do to it since you just bought it? They sold you a base map???
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Old 10-18-2013, 02:29 AM   #3
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You will be talking to FM A LOT more, maps don't translate to alternators, no base map doesn't make sense that FM would sell it that way, what did you do to it since you just bought it? They sold you a base map???

I had been. Well I bought the car from ne'er Washington dc I had it shipped down to Tx I bought the car with a minor front end wreck the owner before me had everything done and I'm guessing the shop that did his work try to tune the car. When I connected the hydra to my computer it said the map was locked. I talked to Jeremy at FM and explained to him my situation and he looked up my hydra in his system and told me it never had a base map set. He told me since I'm the second owner of the car I would have to purchase the base map they offer with the FM II kit. I overwrote the locked map with the new base map and it runs way better. But I've still got the ABS, brake, air bag lights on. I noticed I've got a short since my A/B fuse keeps blowing. What is the A/B fuse for?
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Old 10-18-2013, 04:21 AM   #4
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The A/B fuse is for ABS. I thought it was for Air Bags, as I found out as well, it isn't (I removed it when I removed the air bags from the car, got the ABS light on, reinstalled the A/B fuse and everything is fine now).

If the A/B fuse keeps blowing, you probably have a short somewhere or the ABS unit got screwed by this constant overvoltage.
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Old 10-18-2013, 10:32 AM   #5
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The A/B fuse is for ABS. I thought it was for Air Bags, as I found out as well, it isn't (I removed it when I removed the air bags from the car, got the ABS light on, reinstalled the A/B fuse and everything is fine now).

If the A/B fuse keeps blowing, you probably have a short somewhere or the ABS unit got screwed by this constant overvoltage.
I really appreciate it! Would anyone know how it would be the best way to track it down?

Is there a ABS relay in the system I could've messed up?
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Old 10-18-2013, 11:37 AM   #6
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You will be talking to FM A LOT more, maps don't translate to alternators, no base map doesn't make sense that FM would sell it that way, what did you do to it since you just bought it? They sold you a base map???
Maps do relate to alternators. This is an NB.
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Old 10-18-2013, 11:59 AM   #7
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Disconnect the ABS connector, replace the fuse. If the fuse does not blow again, reconnect the ABS. If the fuse blows now, the ABS is borked. There's no relay involved, the ABS gets its power from the ABS fuse and the main fuse, both of which are hot all the time,
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Old 10-18-2013, 01:51 PM   #8
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Danny, you need to download the Hydra Tuning manual from FMs website and read the section on setting up the Hydra to properly control the voltage from the alternator. It's not hard. All you need is a digital voltmeter and follow the instructions.

Ken
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Old 10-18-2013, 02:12 PM   #9
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Disconnect the ABS connector, replace the fuse. If the fuse does not blow again, reconnect the ABS. If the fuse blows now, the ABS is borked. There's no relay involved, the ABS gets its power from the ABS fuse and the main fuse, both of which are hot all the time,
Thank you for the help! I unplugged my abs pump and sure enough my fuse didn't blow so I guess that traced my problem.

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Danny, you need to download the Hydra Tuning manual from FMs website and read the section on setting up the Hydra to properly control the voltage from the alternator. It's not hard. All you need is a digital voltmeter and follow the instructions.

Ken
Hi Ken I know what you're talking about I tried it yesterday but I found out my alternator got messed up as well when the voltage shot out. I just got my new alternator this morning I'm about to put it together and see what results I get. What area should my voltage be set at idle?
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Old 10-18-2013, 04:10 PM   #10
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If he's got an FM map, the alternator voltage is already set. Fuggedahboudit.
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Old 10-18-2013, 04:15 PM   #11
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If he's got an FM map, the alternator voltage is already set. Fuggedahboudit.

Different from car to car. The FM map will not be perfect on every car. Though i agree that for the most part, it should be ok.
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Old 10-18-2013, 08:15 PM   #12
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Well I had a 00 miata alternator under warranty and it turns out they are different it was making my rpms go nuts! So I just got a actual mazdaspeed I'll be installing sunday. I did mess around with the voltage on the hydra so I'll have to adjust when I put the new alternator. Anyone know what voltage I should run at idle?
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Old 10-20-2013, 07:53 PM   #13
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Well just an update I changed out the alternator for a msm and turns out that my rpms still go crazy I took apart the cluster I burnt the tachometer when the car went way over voltage on the previous turn.

Question: Anyone on here ever used the flyin miata base map for a hydra? I've got a horrible cold start actually it's pretty bad until I get to warm temp I'm thinking the voltage probably fried my iacv or my tps?
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Old 10-23-2013, 01:32 PM   #14
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I use base maps from FM frequently since I tune about 8 to 12 Hydras for their customers every year. For the past 2 years or so, the base maps are great. The cars start and idle well. No perfectly, but acceptably. The worst I have seen was a car that required about 3 tires to get started when cold, but once started, it idled fine.

It sounds to me like you have a problem with the electrical system in the car. Over-voltage did not damage your IACV or TPS. Have you measured the voltage at the battery terminals with a digital voltmeter with the engine idling?
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Old 10-25-2013, 01:02 AM   #15
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I use base maps from FM frequently since I tune about 8 to 12 Hydras for their customers every year. For the past 2 years or so, the base maps are great. The cars start and idle well. No perfectly, but acceptably. The worst I have seen was a car that required about 3 tires to get started when cold, but once started, it idled fine.

It sounds to me like you have a problem with the electrical system in the car. Over-voltage did not damage your IACV or TPS. Have you measured the voltage at the battery terminals with a digital voltmeter with the engine idling?
Well this is where I'm at now I have replaced my alternator since the previous one wasn't charging I did put a voltmeter to the battery and at idle it was around 11.45v I plugged the hydra to my computer and the graph said the same measurement. After I replaced the alternator my voltage was not reading 13.5ish and was charging my car. But now side effects where rpm on my tachometer going nuts from start of cranking the engine on they would start wrapping the tach. My other side effect was my car wouldn't idle until the car got warm and when it finally started to idle it would be around 500-600 rpms. I traced for a while why my rpm on my tach was going so crazy I figured I might've burnt my cluster when I over shot the voltage. I grabbed an extra cluster I had laying from a older nb and it occurred to be doing the same thing.

Now after having the car idle for a little over 5 mins I noticed my rpm on the tach was starting to chill down. I turned the car off and cranked it on once again and my rpm on the tach didn't move at all. I plugged in my computer to the hydra and noticed my voltage was back at 11.5 and my wideband was just staying put not changing numbers. At this point I'm frustrated so I've sent my ecu over to Jeremy at flyin miata to test for problems.
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Old 10-25-2013, 01:04 PM   #16
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Good idea, sending the ECU to FM. This way you rule out any issues with the ECU. Let us know what you find out from FM.
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Old 10-29-2013, 08:48 PM   #17
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Update: Flyin miata has received and checked my ecu. Turns out I've got a bad wideband sensor I don't know how if I don't have more than 100miles on the kit. Also my wideband circuit on the board is dead, The TPS circuit is also dead. Anyone know what kind of sensor I could get for the hydra 2.7 I don't feel like paying $260 for a sensor threw flyin miata. The sensor I've been told I need from hydra is a ntk l2h2 I looked up that sensor and it has a different plug than mine. I've got a 5 pin plug with 2 pins on the top row and 3 on the bottom row plug is shaped in a triangular way.
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Old 10-29-2013, 09:03 PM   #18
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KO Racing sells the sensor for significantly cheaper.Get the harness at the same time so you can convert over to standard sensor plug. Hydra puts their own plug on this so they can charge more markup. (And to save people from running the wrong sensor.)
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Old 10-29-2013, 10:22 PM   #19
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KO Racing sells the sensor for significantly cheaper.Get the harness at the same time so you can convert over to standard sensor plug. Hydra puts their own plug on this so they can charge more markup. (And to save people from running the wrong sensor.)
Got cha! Well I do need the l2h2 correct? I see on ebay they sell them but it says l2h2 and l1h1
NGK NTK 24300 L2H2 L1H1 5 Wire Wideband Oxygen Sensor | eBay
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Old 10-30-2013, 10:52 AM   #20
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Yes, l2h2, bear in mind that the Ebay sensor will not PNP into your setup because of the plug. You'd have to convert over to the OEM plug.
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