..this **** it driving me up the walls. I have no clue what is compatable with what. I don't really feel like paying the damn $275 for a replacement from FM. But on the other hand, I can't make any sense of the replacement part numbers...I see like 329490 different Bosch numbers..with prices ranging from $150 to $600 (lol). What is the difference in half of these part numbers? Connector style and harness length?

I find it quite frustrating that Hydra sources these "golden" wbo2 sensors from VW/AUDI with part numbers that DON'T exist.

Which damn one can I use?

Wideband Oxygen Sensors

Any of these?

 

Amazon.com: Bosch 17014 Oxygen Sensor: Automotive

Cheaper then ur site. This is like the most universal one.

 

So I can buy ANY WBO2 as long as it has a blue,gray,white,black and yellow wire? All the sensors are the same but have different harnesses/connectors?

This **** makes me want to feed raw bunny rabbits to toddlers that will later be thrown into a pit of rabit pitbulls.

 

I bet they are all identical, just the connectors are different.

Thats why you can have one universal 4 wire oxygen sensor work for like 30 different cars.

 

Doppleganger,

If you can wait until later tonight I can get you the information you need. I'm at work right now and just about to go into a meeting. Rest assured you do not have to pay $275 for a new WBO2.

 

here you go.. raw info to educate yourself.

NTK L1H1 Sensor Information

the hydra of various versions uses either the L1H1 or the L2H2 and these guys will have the details on them.

 

Dopp,

I dont know which controller you have, but the AEM UEGO uses the Bosch LSU4.2 5 wire.
You can get them from DIY for 79 bones.

Bosch LSU4.2 5-wire, wide-band O2 sensor DIYAutoTune.com

 

I've read that I can use a LxHx sensor, but I don't know what that means and if that simply means the sensor itself is the same or what.

So i've seen that that NTG/Bosch 24302 is a LxHx replacement, but that the Bosch LSU-4.2 is NOT a LxHx replacement.
Per Techedge link
But, according to them, Bosch part number 13246 is a L1H1 replacement.
And according to GVAutosport (NGK|NTK AFX Wideband Replacement Sensor - GVautosport), Bosch # 24302 IS a L2H2 but cross-references a different Honda part number then that of the known L2H2 Honda sensor.

 

Sorry the LSU4.2 info didn't help. I know that is the replacement unit for LC-1 and AEM.

 

This is what I did:

1. Purchase the WBO2 sensor from Autozone Autozone WBO2 Sensor.pdf

and the connectors from Tech Edge (they're in Australia but everything arrived in about 2 weeks, really painless):


2. You need to cut your existing Hydra wires/connector:


Note the wire colors on the Bosch sensor and their location relative to the Hydra sensor before soldering:


3. Solder the wires to the new connector from Tech Edge (this is what comes in the package):


4. Clip the WBO2 sensor to the new connector and go through the recalibration process.

That's it. You're good to go. For under $100 you can have a new sensor. If this craps out on you just buy another one for $81.00 at you're local autoparts store.

Big thanks should go to Y8s for the original information and for Olderguy's soldering skills. I was just the guinea pig

 

That helps a lot!!! ^^^^

But what i'm wondering is, can't I just use the connector from the bad sensor onto the new sensor? Or are the wires on aforementioned wbo2 different colors than the yellow/gray/white/black/blue ?
And given that it's a Honda OEM sensor, i can get a whole O2 pigtail from a friend of mine..so I wouldn't even really have to order one.

 

Dopp,

Edit: Now that I'm thinking about it, the new sensor wires are the same color so it should work. If you ever need to replace the sensor you would have to switch the connector again. No big deal I guess but I just liked the plug-n-play aspect of it if I ever needed to replace the sensor again. Eh, it's all the same....beats spending $275 for a sensor.

 

SAF does! I can put some male/female connectors on the new splice in case anything happens. I don't mind doing a bit of wiring. Sweet, know where i'll be going tomorrow.

 

I take it the wires were not damaged at the shift turret?

 

nope, checked.

 

Man, I wished I knew about this sooner. Could have saved a lot of money... Good to know.

 

I vote for sticky in the hydra forum

 

No damage. Actually Paul (or was it Artieparty) mentioned placing a screwdriver at the metal flange and with a mallet gently forming a groove around said flange. Works like a charm.

 

Was talking to Mike, but ok.

 

OK, finally got it. I actually got it from Advance Auto Parts, using part number 15401 and it was indeed $80 and the wires are the right colors. I went to AutoZone and they looked in their computer and "it didn't exist". I guess you can order it online from them, but if you're impatient like me, Advance is the place to go.

Yay...my car will finally be running better. No wonder i've been getting a light surging when driving at low speed and the idle has been 'searching' quite a bit.