2004 Rav4 TDS Alarm Removal - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 02-06-2016, 08:53 PM   #1
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Default 2004 Rav4 TDS Alarm Removal

Just got a '04 Rav4 for my mother-in-law. Apparently, in the Southeast, the importer puts aftermarket alarms on called TDS. I think it is an Audiovox product.

Does anyone have a link to instructions on how to completely remove this piece of junk?

I traced out and removed the aftermarket unit on the Miata, but this one seems to be more fully integrated. If I have to attack it blind, I will, but guidance would be appreciated.
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Old 02-08-2016, 09:59 AM   #2
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Trace all the wiring coming out of the alarm brain and see where it goes. You'll probably have pull the lower dash panel if it comes off. Possibly steering column cover if they went that deep. Most likely the kick panel if they grabbed parking lights and door locks there.

Shouldn't be too bad, cut the 12v power to the alarm first should be tapped into at the fusebox or nearby where they grabbed the starter wire, the starter wire is most likely cut in 2, the alarm might have a separate relay that is triggered by the ignition wire and the alarm wire out of the brain and the other 2 wires run to the starter wire and split it, the wires cut will be under the column cover or nearby. Make sure to reconnect the starter wire together.

The rest of the wires should be tapped into which is probably parking lights, maybe headlights, horn, door trigger or dome supervision wire, hatch pin maybe, lock and unlock wires in the kick panel. This might help to see where the wires they tapped into are Ready Remote™
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Old 02-08-2016, 01:34 PM   #3
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I did just go ahead and trace and remove. Yes, I had to take out lower dash, kick panels and steering column covers. Revmoved taps and taped the insulation. Fortunately, the heavy stuff that was interrupted used a short connector to connector harness (at the ignition switch). Only in one place (obvious) did they pull a contact from a connector and add a pigtail. So, all out... quite a pile.

Unfortunately, the non-operating power locks seem to now be getting proper signals, but don't transition. Looks like (3) new actuators before all is well.
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