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Old 06-12-2009, 09:37 AM   #1
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Default Anyone use Mobil1 oil?

If so, here's a $10 rebate form for 5 quarts.

It takes about 6-8 weeks to receive the rebate check and they're limited to 2 per household. Oh, and it doesn't expire until September 15!

I typically buy the 5 quart jug at WalMart for $22. Or, right now Advance Auto Parts is running a Mobil1 oil change special, 5 quarts and Mobil1 oil filter for $29.99. Take $10 off that and it's hard to beat a $20 oil change!
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Old 06-12-2009, 10:03 AM   #2
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Where did you get the coupon?? The fine print says originals only, n o photocopied or mechanically reproduced.
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Old 06-12-2009, 10:04 AM   #3
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the 0w40 is very good and the 15w50 is decent. Any other weight or viscosity is garbage with the current formula.
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Old 06-12-2009, 10:12 AM   #4
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Not anymore.

That's saying a lot considering my dad works for them. I've never seen uglier ******* oil come out of my car during a change. Used it exclusively on the Daytona 955i but not letting it near the Miata anymore.
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Old 06-12-2009, 10:50 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gospeed81 View Post
Not anymore.

That's saying a lot considering my dad works for them. I've never seen uglier ******* oil come out of my car during a change. Used it exclusively on the Daytona 955i but not letting it near the Miata anymore.
The naked eye can't tell you anything about oil condition.
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Old 06-12-2009, 11:01 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hustler View Post
The naked eye can't tell you anything about oil condition.
Comparative analysis.

If every time I've changed my oil (religiously) on all of our vehicles I notice a general condition (color, viscosity, etc) that indicates used but not broken down oil, and then notice a definite difference with one brand after going turbo, I can state this.

We've been here before...I haven't done a UOA, sorry. I will probably never do one. I do know how to conduct a viscosity test. I used to work in industrial coatings (Teflon paint FTW) and have a pretty good grasp of viscosity differences in an applicable aspect just by watching a fluid run or mixing. The viscosity was definitely not the same as when I put the oil in. This could indicate the oil had broken down quite a bit, and this is how I took it.

I know the naked eye won't tell you much, but ignoring the glaringly obvious would be idiotic. I can always see the other side of the garage through the oil coming out of the cars (and bikes) at EVERY oil change. I change oil after 2500miles, and am obsessive about it. So if I go to drain the oil on my favorite toy car and it comes out thick and obscenely black....you can bet your bippy I'm going to try something else.
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Old 06-12-2009, 11:32 AM   #7
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my oil turns black after about 100 miles, should I scrap the motor? Are you making these assumption hot or cold?

lol
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Old 06-12-2009, 11:51 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hustler View Post
my oil turns black after about 100 miles, should I scrap the motor? Are you making these assumption hot or cold?

lol

Ok Trey...there's a difference between *black and *holy fuggin **** that looks like tar!

I also used to work at Midas...I was 19 and the oil change monkey. I've seen a lot of oil coming out of a lot of neglected vehicles. This was worse than that.

Admittedly I drive hard, and commute 100highway miles to school. But this particular oil didn't work well for my application. You can argue all day it may still have the proper lubrication for my motor, but it was disconcerting enough I decided to switch.

I was using 10w-30, and may try the straight 40w you mentioned above since I've always been an M1 fan. Maybe every oil I end up trying will look just as unbelieveably crappy...this is my first turbocharged car. But I felt like crap watching that junk come out.
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Old 06-12-2009, 12:12 PM   #9
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I use the 5w30 but based on what this thread tells me I may switch to something else, or at least a different weight.
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Old 06-12-2009, 12:19 PM   #10
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Hustler's right. Don't take my word for it...it's just opinion based on speculation.

There are two options:

1. Get a used oil analysis and be sure your oil is fine, or sure you need to swap.

2. Spend big bucks on the stuff we know works. I think hustler is an AMSoil fan.

I only stated my view because I thought I would get away with $25/gallon oil. After seeing what it looked like, and how that made me feel based on my limited experience, I would not hesitate to spend more money on premium oil.

I only avoided this because I remember the sour taste of $80 oil changes from my sportbike days.
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Old 06-12-2009, 12:21 PM   #11
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gospeed - maybe it has more detergents in it, thus the black death you noticed during the Mobil1 oil change was actually crap your previous oils DIDN'T clean out of your engine.

I'm not a supporter of any brand of oil.... oil is oil is how I've always treated it. If it's on sale and I'm going to change it at 3,000 I doubt it makes much difference since most oils have been tested to not start breaking down until 6,000+ mi.
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