Well, there USED to be a supposedly "good" Lightning Audio speaker that was sold there. It's been discontinued though.

I'm an audio snob and can't stand WalMart so I never tried them, but many seemed more than happy with them.

 

Wow guys stop being such cheapassess. Car audio component prices have dropped SOOOO much from ten years ago. **** is CHEAP now. You can buy a pretty well-sized amp for $100 and get a pair of great speakers for that much too.

You don't need a component to do your high pass filtering. A lot of head units have that built in.

And for you ******* that just want an ipod, there are some "ipod integrated" head units out there where you can change the song/playlist whatever bullshit from the head unit. ORRR you can pick up a preamp, an amp, and speakers and just run a RCA-1/8" cable from the preamp to the cabin where you plug in your ipod. Sound quality is better if you go out of the *** of the ipod (ipod connector) but ****, if you are asking these questions you don't really care about having super pristine sound. Plus you are in a noisy *** miata anyways so **** it. A preamp with eq is like $100.

 

Well, I'm willing to give y8s recommendations a try simply because he seems like he knows his ****, and it sounds like it could be a cheap experiment. A good driver doesn't necessarily have to cost a lot but finding a cheap one probably takes enough trial and error to not be worthwhile.

I'm fine paying for quality within reason. It IS a convertible though and one can only expect so much with the top down.

I have a decent amp and head unit that I'm happy with. The speakers are the most important component though. Theyz what makes the soundsz.

 

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=299-930

gone. and I can't vouch for the other drivers. Sorry.

 

So what led you to select these in the first place? Specs? Experience with them?

I'm actually thinking of a Coax with a pivoting tweet.

 

The amp is pretty damn important too.

 

Of course all the components are important, and the weakest link principle applies for the most part.
Thing is, you can run a Mark Levinson system into some WalMart speakers and it'll still sound like crap. Conversely, really nice speakers will make nearly anything (given adequate power and low enough distortion) sound much better.

 

I have Dayton 8" aluminum cone woofers in the doors. I fabricated 3/4" MDF spacers so the magnets would clear the door skin. The door panel needed some trimming as well. Otherwise they fit fine and sound great. I used sound deadening material on the doors to keep the back wave out of the car.
Dayton 8"
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=295-376
I have 2" speakers in custom kick panels for the mids and 1" tweeters on the dash (firing up) for the highs. Six channel active crossover sound from the head unit (Pioneer) . Lows and mids are powered from an external 4-channel amp. Highs are powered by the head unit. With the 16-band EQ and time alignment (in the HU) it sounds fantastic.

Anyway you can get 8" speakers in the doors, at least in a '99, with some light fabrication. The system I am describing above is not cheap but sounds great.

 

y8s, would this be a good substitute?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002V0EM7Y/...Y&linkCode=asn

 

Zaph Audio's review and distortion plots were part of it.

pivoting tweet is meaningless. just about any tweeter you find on a coax is going to have adequate off-axis radiation or maybe will be slightly softer on the top end (a good thing in a car). pivoting it wont change that much.

really the presence of "enough power" is 90% of the amp's importance. most of the name brands or even fleamarket brands are going to be pretty good at their *real* power ratings. the biggest difference is what they are vs. what they SAY they are. in short: run them in their comfy range and they all sound ok.

maybe?

I liked the Jamo I linked above because of its high QTS of .95 and the Fs of 58 Hz. You could probably swing a similar model in the Jamo line with close specs to that. Qts between .5-.9 and Fs between 50-60. Of course you'll need a crossover that suits your tweeter..

certainly for the price they aren't going to make you cry if they suck.

 

FWIW I have the DEH-2200UB (one step down from the 3200) and using a USB-powered 80GB external HD does not work with mine (formerly a laptop drive, now in external enclosure). The drive clicks but does not read. I suspect a larger flash drive might work if that's what you have. All my USB thumb/flash drives work (only tried up to 4GB).

 

Thought I should chime in.

1) Incar PC in the glove box
2) External audio card (Sound Blaster Audigy 2 NX - USB)
3) SPDIF output to the trunk
4) DIYParadise DAC in the trunk
5) Genesis Dual Mono amplifier in the trunk, maybe 5cm from the DAC.
6) 8" Peerless woofers
7) 1" ScanSpeak tweeters (I had to auction a kidney on eBay)
8) Dynamat inside the doors

I'm using a nice plugin (I don't remember the name right now, maybe EQ by Nevi?) in Winamp to set the L-R delay (really important!) and a 128-area EQ to adjust everything, and boy, does it sound good!

I am missing a pair of good midrange drivers, but I can't think of any place to put them in. Suggestions?

 

The audio setup I did in the miata sounds ******* mint.

I did dynamat everywhere, and blocked off the trunk tunnels with foam to create a enclosed parcel shelf for the 2 8" kicker subwoofers. The bass is perfect for everything from rock to rap.

I'm using polk/momo components up front and have the tweeters in the 2 side vents. The sound is very crisp and clear, not too mention plenty loud with top down driving on the highway.

The head unit is a touch screen Kenwood that I got off ebay for half price. I forget what amp I'm using, but I got it and all the cables from crutchfield.

Everyone has a different opinion on whats good, bad, cheap, etc. I just know from my own personal experience, that my **** sounds ******* perfect. With the doors closed you can barely hear a thing, but once inside at half volume its plenty loud. I'm happy with how it all came out, and it was roughly $1000 to do so, but the touch screen deck was more than 50% the total cost of things, so it could be done for under $500 with a regular head unit I'm sure.

I have a bunch of info on it in my build thread if your interested.

 

Both of my cars are time aligned but I wasn't about to bring that up here.

Do your 8" peerless not play high enough or your scanspeaks not play low enough to meet up in the middle?

 

A little bit of both actually, it's mostly the 8" woofers that suck at voice frequencies.

 

FWIW I found with the 8" in the doors I cut them off at about 150 Hz, maybe 200 Hz before the mids start sounding a little boomy. The single 2" drivers are almost enough to take over except at high volume they start overextending so I am going to add another pair.

Time alignment is the shizzle. Its awesomeness is worth mentioning since the OP is considering an HU anyway.

 

Fine then: alpine imprint with the addon box, cd, and microphone. BAM!

Dimitris: consider ditching your $can$peaks for some Aura whisper style tweets or maybe a step-down ring to run some 5-1/4ish door speakers. A simple custom neodymium sub box in the trunk does amazing things and wont really hurt storage.

 

Ditching the ScanSpeaks is totally out of the question. I would rather install a set of midrange drivers, like I said. Getting a sub in the trunk is out of the question as well, I need all the trunk space I can get as I'm getting lots of tools with me everytime I go to a shop or a customer's house.

 

I've pondered cutting out the stock NB door speaker grilles and fabbing up something that holds a second driver somehow. There's quite a bit of depth between the grill and a steel-mounted 8 inch woofer. Enough to put something small like a 2 or 3" widerange driver at a reasonable angle without it sticking into your legroom more than an inch give or take.

Or maybe there's space to put something in the stock tweeter location and move your tweeters to the lower windshield (well, maybe not full flange scanspeaks):

 

I've got a nice Hifonics ZXi 75w 4-ch amp sitting here if you are interested. Will let it go cheap.