http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

 

This is what I have done for the honda motors I have built in the past. It works for me. Babying a motor is just rediculous, why do you think it will take a motor 1000 miles to break in. A car idles at like almost 1000rpm. Do you think that 1000 revolutions will not wear rings to the walls? That is a total of 2000 strokes. A motors break in occurs within the first few minutes of it being on.

 

I do that but it is only cuase i haven little self control

 

Sounds like a few girls I knew when I was younger..
Just slam it in and take off.......

 

I think you should stop making threads for awhile.

 

Is this true, does any know any other sources confirming this? I'm building my engine right now and want to do it right.

 

tons of people do this. I have done this all the time in the past. I know Import Builders that builds honda motors does this. Just plug in your ecu with a good base map and start tuning like you normally would. When you are done tuning, drive it like you stole it. That is all it takes.

 

I can't say anything from my experience but I know a couple of guys at APR (vw, audi place) and they say the engines they broke in the hardest lastest the longest.

 

This sounds legit, I'll probably do this with my engine, I'll talk to the engine builder first though.

 

its what I did and it got great compression test results

 

hahahaha Sounds like 50% of my senior HS class.

 

man you guys are getting vicious with the title edits

 

IF only i could make him squirm i am jealouse.

 

believe it or not someone is beating me to it.

 

There is a difference between seating the rings and breaking in an engine. When you buy a new car or bike the rings have already been seated and the dealer/manufacturer will often recommend a break in process for the first 500 to 2500 miles that, they list various reasons for these break ins. When you build your own engine you have to seat the rings yourself. People confuse a break in on a new car with a break in on a freshly assembled motor.

I think I believe what that website says, that kicking the engine's *** is the way to seat the rings. Thing is that most people I have known who have built engines don't want to go beat on the car immediately because they also installed a bunch of other **** at the same time and the car needs to be tuned. Kind of a catch 22. Do you want to take your new engine to redline in 3rd gear on a questionable tune? I don't. Here's the other thing, crap in your engine can hurt turbos. New engines always have crap in them. A lot of it. No matter how clean you are. Do you want to break in an engine with a shiny GT turbo on there? I know I wouldn't do that either.

There's lots of stuff to consider.

 

You would be a complete idiot to do anything to you motor without tuning it. You build a motor, you put in a good base map, you tune like you normally would, you change oil, you are done. It has worked time and time again. Any engine builder who says differently is probably some old timer to was building engine back before there was ever such a thing as measuring past the hundredths place.

If you get you machining work done at a place with new equipment then a "break in" is not necessary because the accuracy of the machine work should be spot on with .0001" or better accuracy. This accuracy means that your rings barely need to "seat".

As far as stuff being in your motor, I hope to god that you would clean it out with some dish soap and water with brushes, etc.. before you assemble it. If you do this in a clean environment you shouldn't have anything more than microscopic pieces of dust in there. Nothing that the oil filter won't catch in the minutes after the oil reaches running temp.

Please tell me the people you know so that I can prevent them from building me a motor.

 

If you have your head rebuilt there will be trash in your engine. Brushes and soap won't get into every passage. Compressed air won't either. You can have the cleanest environment in the world and it's not going to undo what was done at the machine shop.

Do you run your piston/wall clearances at .0001"? Please tell me how .0001" or better accuracy matters to ring seating when you're running piston/wall clearances upwards of .0065". Have you ever actually assembled a motor?

 

It sounds to me like you haven't assembled a motor before.

The more accuracy there is, the less distortion there is. Machining now can produce a near perfect circle, that is why rings produced now for motors have MUCH less tension. They don't need it to maintain a seal like they did back in the muscle car days. With less tension comes a shorter break in period. Cylinder walls are now honed with much higher grits + much greater accuracy + low tension rings = very quick seal. As in a matter of seconds to minutes at most.

Cylinder wall to piston clearances have absolutely nothing to do with ring seal.

 

ding.

 

Actually I have, I assembled a motor for my friend's Eclipse. We broke it in hard on the stock ECU, turbo and injectors. Then after 1000 miles we put the larger injectors in, the bigger turbo, the SAFC, turned up the boost and tuned it. The engine and turbo made it 20k miles seeing 18+psi daily before the car was sold. It's probably still running today. We took the safe route due to the money invested, but we still drove the car normally without babying it.

Did you read the OP's link? Just curious because it seems like we're on the same or similar page but you just have more faith in the ability of brushes and soapy water to get an engine clean after parts have been in a machine shop where cutting/surfacing was done.