BOV is from Go Fast Bits, so I'm sure its obnoxiously loud.

gfb makes both recirc and atmo
I honestly wouldn't even buy a subaru from someone that was stupid enough to run an atmo valve on the stock setup

Thats why I went with the mega low ball. The 4k lowball should be enough money to de-fuckify the car, lol.

so i got my "new" ebay coil and it showed up with a broken of connector in it and bent pins, although other than that it was shiny new looking. i pulled the broken bits, straightened the pins and installed it, and its completely dead. car would hardly moves itself out of its own way. P0301 at idle.

in an effort to just get this done and over with, i went and offered my ass and a tub of vaseline to the local auto part retailer. $95 later i have a running car again.

it pulls nicely again with no misses anywhere. ;)


vlad i thought i read somewhere you do email tuning?

:party:

I changed the oil in the WRX today and like a good boy I checked my other fluids. Everything was going well until I discovered an extra inch of lube on the trans dipstick :eek4:

After loosing my goddamn mind for 15 minutes and checking my invoices to confirm that yes, I did buy 4qts of Amsoil and yes, the 5MT takes 3.8qts, I managed to pump a full quart of very dark gear oil out of the trans dipstick tube. Way way too dark for 3k old Amsoil MTG. The car has not been swimming recently and I'm not loosing any other fluids so I'm at a bit of a loss. I can fuck things up with the best of them, but an extra quart? That's a stretch.

The only thing I can come up with is that maybe I drained, refilled and checked the transmission while the car was up on ramps, leaving a full quart of old juice in the trans. This would explain both the extra darkness and the extra fluid. :facepalm:

Partial change is better than no change at all. I guess its time to order more oil and do it all again.

I'll sell my 05 outback xt 5mt for $9k.

With or without the 6ULRs? ;)

Also, did you get the package I sent you?

Ahhh forgot I had those. I just put new summer tires on them too. 245's on a legacy wagon chassis FTW. Winter setup has been on the car for the last few months.

EDIT: my best bet is to return it to stock and ask the same amount. I doubt the buyer would notice the fmic undertray cut outs.

I did not receive a package from you, no. :cry:

G,
You won't hurt anything with it overfilled. Just fyi. You can stll chage, and make sure to get all the old stuff out if you do

You should forget those 6ULRs over here to the west coast where I can use them year round :naughty:

Son Of Bitch! :vash: I'll dig up the tracking number, though I think its on my desk at the office

I'm just surprised it didn't come blubbering out the vent (if there is a vent) or skoodging out of the input/output shaft seals. I AM disappointed I ruined 4qts of Amsoil MTG.

The transmission sounds different and I swear to god the car accelerates better now :cool:

haulin and ballin

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1419775301

i refuse to buy "subaru" branded coolant and stop leak... err i mean addititve. so whats everyones favorite coolant?

what's cheapest at Advanced at the moment?

isnt it supposed to be phosphate free or some BS? or am i falling for the hype, or are they all Phosphate free nowadays?

I recall reading somewhere that we should use a coolant free of some chemical. Maybe it is phosphate? I use the walmart brand because it is free of that chemical.

I use prestone. Those yellow bottles. Because who cares.

Lots of the new manufacturer fill colored coolants are not "compatible" with the classic green (German pink, GM orange, etc) so paying attention to those is important. But I have this feeling like after you dump all your coolant at least once, it probably does not matter.

The justification i keep seeing for the "special coolant" is the aluminum block. It supposedly needs a non-silicate, non-phosphate and non-amine type coolant to keep the cast aluminum happy. With more and more aluminum blocks on the market, and with changing environmental regulations, I'm sure its going to get easier to find compatible coolants.

If you believe in such things, of course. ;)

I use the subaru coolant, it was the same price as prestone at autozone. That way I didnt have to completely flush the cooling system and give it a colon cleanse. I'd be willing to put generic green in the car if it got completely cleaned out first. Maybe my over caution is from the GM nightmare DexCool which turns into pudding if you mix other coolants in.

i dont have beliefs, i take things to be fact or reserve for later judgement. i just dont want to find out in 50k miles that the shit on sale today at oriely wasnt supposed to go in my car, and i dont have any facts to know either way. to my knowledge, everything on the market today is safe for aluminum no? even before aluminum blocks, there were lots of aluminum parts in the cooling circuits. ive spent to much time on lgt.com and bobistheoilguy i guess lately. prestone (or whatever) it is.

and for the record ive mixed gm orange and classic green many times. its never turned to goo. theyre essentially the same thing with the orange supposedly having a more concentrated additive package to last longer. the one thing ive learned is that the orange hates oxygen and when it oxidizes (and it will) it turns to sludge. in my opinion the thousands that have associated that issue with mixing green, or just dexcool in itself, were coming to a false conclusion about the cause because they let air in the system, ran the vehicle and heated it up, whcih accelrates the oxidation, and then topped off with green. then there are those that had 120k on the coolant and couldnt understand why it was breaking down.