Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

- Insert BS here (https://www.miataturbo.net/insert-bs-here-4/)

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Personally, I wouldn't even bother fixing it. Would just buy a known great condition engine/trans take-off, plop it in, and drive for 100+k

Gonna start looking for tires for my oem wheels for winter. Not looking to get a winter tire as snow is hit or miss here. I am thinking more of an all season with known good snow performance. Any suggestions before i start?

Quote:

Originally Posted by gesso (Post 1183242)

So it turns out its an 05 XS.

And here's a better descripition of the issues.

So likely just swap the motor.

Do the transmission symptoms sound like center diff or maybe just a bad CV joint?

Do those have DCCD? A common issue on my 05 STI is clunking from the center diff even when its in auto mode. Apparently doesnt cause damage and isn't anything to worry about. I hear it everytime I back out of my driveway (steering wheel at full lock while backing up)

I've never heard of clunking from the center diff being "ok"

tuned another '14 WRX, with just downpipe and nothing else

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1416202640

This was with like 1 revision. Very happy with results.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 18psi (Post 1183421)

I've never heard of clunking from the center diff being "ok"

Its all over multiple STI forums. short of swapping the center diff, there doesnt seem to be anyway to get rid of it. Not even sure if that would fix it tbh

So dunlop wintersport d4's (perfomance winter tire) or goodyear ultra grip wrt's (studless winter tire)? After rebates, they are at the right price point.

Forester arrived tonight :)

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1417242524

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1417242524

189k. Only been sitting for about 6 months. Some scratches on the passenger door and the passenger headlight/rad support is a bit pushed in (def. fixable). Rad was replaced at 105k (along with timing belt). Alternator was replaced last Feb. Tires (BFG's of some kind, didn't look beyond tread depth and brand) were replaced last year.

Checked the oil, black but full, transfluid looks ok. Battery only had 2 volts so I swapped in the one from the Exocet and this was the result.

Congrats :)

Yep, I'd say that engine is begging to go to the dump

chugachuga choo choo.

WOW
If I wasn't already overwhelmed with too many cars, I'd get this in a heartbeat

2001 Subaru gc8 2dr ez30R motor 2.5rs 2.5 rs
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1417444242
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1417444242

Quote:

Selling my 2.5rs w/ ez30R motor swap. I do not have the time or funds to make it as nice as I wanted. Engine is smooth and quiet with low miles. 5 speed manual gearbox and its a 2dr! 121k on chassis

I bought this car with the engine swap already in, I wired up a few things needed to get it on the road and have since run out of funds. It is a running and driving car w/ little effort

Pro-
Ez30r from 3.0R outback, AVCS and AVSL, excellent motor.
Car is very light weight.
New headlights,
new radiator,
new OEM battery hardware/tray/tiedowns
motor doesnt leak a drop of oil
Runs Megasquirt 3 pro ECU (over $1400)
megasquirt engine harness plugs directly into the ez30 motor harness
Has the AVCS and AVLS working
power steering
Rust free 2dr

CONS
interior is stripped this was going to be a race car/rally car build
has OEM seats which are nice but NO carpet. if you bought carpet it would look pretty complete.
Only has the necessities hooked up, no radio, A/C,sunroof,etc you can add all those things in
front end was repainted by previous owner so its duller/doesnt match.

assuming its not a hack job, 5500 is a steal. they go for that in terrible shape bone stock

Quote:

Originally Posted by gesso (Post 1185848)

Forester arrived tonight :)

That'll go away once it warms up. :party:

Does anybody know where to start looking for a hitching/bucking/stumble issue? It seems like a well-known issue, but the LGT forums don't give me much on what causes it. Mine was really only doing it on accel below like 3k or 4k rpm, but after I did the timing belt, tensioner, water pump, oil, trans oil, rear oil, and coolant it now does it a lot less during accel, but more at low throttle steady-speed (it's most noticable on flat ground at 30mph).

I was gonna say grounds, but a sensor might be more logical.

I have cleaned the MAF a few times (car came with a K&N, but I removed that) and it helped the first couple times, but it stopped helping after I put a paper filter back in. I'll try that again. What grounds should I check? Where are they? I have the FSM, I'll check there too for a list of grounds.

Looks like grimmspeed discontinued the pnp manifold service. Anyone hear anything as to why?

Looks like ALLOFIT

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1417483971

That's what you get when you click the Porting/Coating link on the left.

Its not something I was ever married to, but pnp manifolds, crosspipe, and uppipe were things I'd been knocking around in the back of my head if the price was right. I noticed some black friday/monday stuff floating around so I decided to check pricing. I don't want to go crazy but little mods here and there to make things more "efficient" while keeping it "stock" has always interested me. Looks like the TGV delete/port is nolonger being offered as well.