The latch and striker weren't a problem on my car, it was the cup on the lower part of the door that lines up with the rubber "stop" on the body.

 

completely striped the latch screws. They all started to turn with great effort, then completely failed. I was even using the proper sized driver to fit perfectly. I just i drill them out? or try a vice grip? I dont even know.

 

Buy a new car, stick with subarus.

 

sounds like a plan. Is it sad I've considered selling the miata just to buy a camera body?

 

Air Saw - 0/5 mega-fail




Even fitted with a modified saws-all blade, I doubt it could cut PVC pipe. Avoid at all costs. It's so bad, I almost feel guilty for taking it to the scrap recyclers.

 

Agreed

 

I ended up having to cut off the heads with a dremel. then I could only remove one with a vice grip, the other two had to be drilled out.

 

Brain, I usually use the dremel and cut a slot for a large screw driver. If that doesn't work you can use a cold chisel in the groove and it is rare that I have to drill out a bolt.

 

i did that. i was able to get a few more turns out of them each, but they werent coming out. Looks like the threads had locktite or something on them and they did NOT want to unscrew. Even when I tried vicegirp after cutting off the heads, I was only able to turn one out, one snapped, and the other was destroying/warping my vicegrips.

 

This body saw is actually great for cutting body sheet metal. It can cut aluminum intercooler piping in a pinch, but a cutoff wheel is better.

You can knock out the hole behind the headlight in about 60sec without damaging the paint.

I think people expect it to be a mini sawzall but it is only good for thin sheet metal.

 

Im sure someone has mentioned it in here somewhere, but this computer is incredibly slow, so im not going to make it commit suicide by TRYING to go through the pages,
But, i have an awesome Channel Lock tool set, and i accidentally Arced and welded the gear on my 3/8 drive ratchet while dissasembling a battery tie down. Went to Harbor Freight, because i NEEDED a 3/8 for what i was doing... well... i always use one... anyways, picked up a Pittsburgh Tools Ratchet, and its almost IDENTICAL to the Channellock that i fried, it ratchets smoothly, never slips teeth, AND fits PERFECTLY into the spot the old one was in, in the Travel box. Idk... no big deal i spose, but its my FIRST pittsburgh tool, and it is pretty badass. Ill still be using the warranty on my fried ratchet, but im not in AS MUCH of a hurry to replace it now

Long story short.... Pittsburgh Hand tools are badass.

 

Except basically the same thing (as far as looks, weight, noise-level) is sold by matco/snap-on, and it IS a mini-sawzall.

They may be $300, but those ******* can cut through plate steel.

 

A simple one but a goodie - WIN
I thought someone had covered these but I could not find it.



Portable Worklight & Flashlight - 27 LED Light Flashlight

I bought a couple of these to try them out and will be buying more. The magnet on the back makes it handy. Well worth the $3.50 they charge for them.

 

not bright enough for me.

 

Sometimes you get them for free.

 

+1
I got 2 for free with a coupon last week

 

You are allowed by law to use more than just one. Did I mention they are cheap? I think someone else mentioned they are sometimes free. So obtaining more than one is well within the realm of possibility. I have two.

 

next brain will say he doesn't know their color temperature.

 

they appear to be in the ~5000K range.

 

Anyone here using a US General tool chest and care to give a quick review?

I'm looking into one vs an equivalent craftsman one. They're about the same price but the quality of the craftsman ones have really dropped over the past few years