"Help me figure out what cat I want" thread # 10000
 

I'm looking for a car to replace my '97 that I'm selling. The car must have a torsen, have a nice interior, have relatively low miles, not be in a color I don't like, obviously no autotrash (preferably a M6), preferably be either a 10AE or a '01-'05. I would prefer to buy from a private party but I'm not a dealership. Must have clean carfax and check out when inspected my independent mechanic.
I've found:

'04 MSM with 85K miles for $10500. Red. Kinda far.

'01 Sport, 66K miles, what looks like a leather interior (therefor torsen from what I've read). New tires. $8500, dark blue. Nearer then the MSM

'03 MX5, 75K miles, red, advertised as having a 6 speed (therefor torsen?), has black leather interior, tires look to have good tread. Special edition on account of the black leather and 6 speed?

There are also some NC's in my price range but I don't think in interested, but then again I am looking for a more modern car. Same distance as the above.

What do y'all think you would buy with your money?

This:
Scott Volvo | 2013 Volvo C30 R-Design | 800.280.2353

That does not meet all my requirements.

I want that car in AWD, and about $10,000 less.

Turbo Veloster. The 6 speed car was fun. The auto was not.

The MSM has beefier gearbox and diff, plus it has boost right from the get go. They go moderately well with just an intake and exhaust.

It also has all the intercooler piping sorted already!

+1

The seats in the turbo are amazing! I would daily the shit out of that car.

MSM. Great platform to start with, as stated above.

So tempted to get the MSM...

If I could afford a new Turbo Veloster then I'd have a 5.0 mustang, but I really don't want to pay nearly that much. The MSM is on the very top of what I'd pay.

How about an S2000? It would probably have a few more miles but it'd be faster from the box.

Have you ever driven one? I haven't, but from what I've read I dont think I'd like the lack of low end grunt.

A MSM at a good price will give you the most bang for the buck.

^^An S2000 dyno graph is like a stock miata until it hits VTACH, so whats the problem?

both are slow?

Unless you drive your daily like you stole it then you don't want an s2000. It is a race engine in a street car.

I've heard the MSM is similar in the way that it doesn't make power until the turbo spools at 4500rpm.

I can get a MSM around here for roughly the same price as a S2000. I'm probably going to go look at a car this weekend, maybe even bring one home.

This problem is actually the result of some issues with the hardware in the MSM. If you go to Mazda-speed.com the problem is discussed in depth and there are a few things you need to do to fix it and all are very cheap.

Good to hear, I had a look at some of the MSM stuff on Begi and Flyinmiata which pretty much pushed me over the edge towards the MSM, so I'm gonna try and go look at it this weekend.

The stock ECU on the MSM is the worst part about the car. In my opinion the most important mod for a MSM is a standalone. Add in injectors, intake and turn the boost up to 15psi and you've pretty much got 200whp/tq.

Other than that. Awesome car! :)

PLEASE DRIVE A NC BEFORE YOU BUY ANYTHING!!

In my thread you asked why I went with that over a msm or s2000. Basically I was looking for the same things as you, and I wanted to get a NB or s2000 to turbo. I drove a s2000, hated it. I drove a NB, and it was exactly what I expected, nicer than my NA, but still the same car and relatively same interior. Then I drove a NC right after the NB, and I instantly liked it way better than anything else I had driven. I pulled a 2006 SE with 86k miles for 10.5k, right in the upper limits of what you are looking at. I would never suggest someone spend that much on a NB without driving a NC.

Interior is lightyears nicer. The seats are great, the instrumentation and button layout is great, the soft top mechanism is AWESOME, the sound is better than a NA/NB, and overall the chassis is much stiffer. The stock suspension is a little soft, but there are many good upgrades available for any price range. And the turbo aftermarket is picking up now. Honestly, just make sure you at least drive one to see if you love it as much as I do.

I'll see if I can find a NC in my aria to test drive tomorrow, I'm probably gonna go see a '04 MSM with 40K miles Sunday.

I went to look at the MSM and loved it, I decided I wanted to by it. But then the bank said they wanted to rape me with the interest rate so I'm going to look into some cheaper options.

First is a '94 with an LSD, clean tairless cloth interior, power windows, TEIN S-Tech Springs & Tokico Blue Shocks, Racing Beat front and rear sway bars, ENKEI RP-FI 15x7 wheels, Dunlop Star Specs, Rennenmetal Spec Miata hardtop brackets and a matching hard top. Down side is it has 136K miles so it'll need a compression test. He wants $5K for it but that ain't happannen', I'd give him $4250.

This one already has aftermarket wheels and suspension so it would only need a rollbar and break pads before the turbo kit comes.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1358033063

Second is a '99, it has a torsen LSD, leather tan interior, factory bose speakers,wind blocker,power door locks/windows and the A/C works. It has oem front lip and sideskirts. Performance wise only has a K&N intake. Along with some 949 racing adjustable endlinks.
Has Garaage Star radiator cooling panel and license plate bracket. Interior is tan leather and he says it's clean. This one is for sale for $5500 and has 126K miles, but I'd buy it for maybe $4500, maybe. This one lacks the wheels and suspension but is in a bodystyle I prefer and is in a better color. Will also need compression test, rollbar, break pads, I don't know about the tires.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1358033063

Both cars are fs for over bluebook and NADA value, and I could go to a dealership and find one for less but I can't find exactly what I'm looking for at a dealershop atm.

Which one is the better deal?

You can go to a DEALERSHIP and find one for less? Are you... sure? Because most dealerships I see listed online have them listed for quite a pretty penny. If that '94 passes a compression test and has a good soft top as well as clean, original paint, it's easily worth close to the $5000 figure IMO. That '99, if it's as clean as the seller says, is worth also very close to his asking price IMO, not $1k less. Edit to add: if the '99 is a torsen, would that not be a 3.9? Does it have a 6-speed as well? If so, that's the better deal IMO.

Miatas almost always go for more than KBB... KBB doesn't buy and sell cars, they make crap up and hope people believe it...

99 may have thrust bearing issue. I'd hold out for an 01-05 LS car, which will have all you want and vvt goodness.

Edit: or go for the MSM.

Not sure about the 6 speed, I'll ask. The dealerships are hit and miss in the price, ive seen some cheap miatas.

I'm trying to go the cheap route right now, which knocks out the MSM and since I'm in Cali and whatever I get has to comply with CARB, meaning my only options are pre 2000 cars if I want a turbo. I'm going to have to look into the thrust baring issue, is there any way I can tell if the car has or may develop this issue?

Push in the clutch, and the crank will push forward as much as a 1/4" IIRC. Then you can pry back the crank with a 2x4, and repeat to your heart's content. There's a video on m.net if you wanna see it in action.

Why not just buy an already boosted na or nb????

Because buying someone elses build is harder than building your own.

I'm sorry I didn't see your name as the OP? I agree to some extent, but this is not always the case. Maybe in your own personal experiences you've found it's easier to build your own, but for someone who has the knowledge of what they're getting into, buying something partially built or fully built has it's advantages...

lol you must be new around here...
...with that attitude you wont last very long.

But i'll let the "OP" or Gearhead address that mr. toughguy.

Funny, I thought his attitude fits in completely. You probably just don't like that he directed it at you... and that he's right. :giggle:

Hey no need to get your little panties in a bunch. All I asked was if my original response was addressed to you. Just giving the OP something to think about, just like yourself and everyone else on this thread did. You're the one that made the bold statement with nothing to back it up.

And just because I've lurked this forum since April 11' doesn't mean I'm "new" around here. Usually if I need information ill use the search function, find what I need, and be on my way. To be honest I don't have time to be a keyboard warrior or desire to be.

You're cute.


Wasn't getting my balls tied up, but before asking gearhead a stupid question, try actually reading the thread itself.


Pre-performance modified-by-owner cars are hard to have in CA.
Legally CARB approved performance builds are much more expensive to actually buy in CA, because of the smog scam.
Read the damn thread instead of the title.

I just found a 10AE with a matching hard top, roll bar and recent maintence for a good price. Only problem is it has almost 140k miles. Thoughts?

140k isnt bad as long as it was maintained properly and not driven obnoxiously hard... what was the recent maintenance? Hard top is a total plus. What are they asking for it?

Have a compression and leak down test done on the motor. Do physical inspection for flaws. Decide weather the compression and leak down results are reasonable. Buy or don't buy. If you don't want to do it just take it to a shop. It's worth the 75-100 bucks. If you're ready to pull the trigger why not spend the extra couple bucks?

Also make sure all wiring and electronics are in good shape and not messed with.

as quite a few others on this forum I don't mind dropping a new motor in either. So my opinion may be different. I haven't had a car payment in 12 years. The only car I have that doesn't have over 200k is my audi and when or if the time ever comes I'll rebuild or replace that motor too. I'm not saying buy a car with a bad motor. Just that in 5-8 years when the motor may need a refresh (if it's in good condition when you buy it and you continue to take care of it) it's not a big deal. Will you even own the car in 5-8 years?

A compression tester can be had for 40 - 60 bucks... one of the best purchases I have ever had.

He wants 5K. Just noticed the hardtop does not come with the car and has been sold, it does however have a rollbar. Car looks clean inside and out, leading me to believe it's been well taken care of.

http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/...deSoftTopX.jpg

MiataBumperCoverX.jpg photo by carsnohomo | Photobucket

I'm going to San Diego Saturday to check out a couple of other cars and I think I'm gonna have to try and see this one too. I'll have which ever one I like the most looked at and have a compression test done. Whichever car I get I plan on turboing in the near future, just a begi-s kit probably but I wan't to make sure the car can handle it.

gay bra is gay.

Front bumper has taken its share of beatings and is missing the factory lower lip.

Otherwise car looks pretty decent. At this point, with the condition and miles, I don't feel that the 10AE aspect of it adds any real value, except for a neat looking color combo and cool interior.

On the HUGE plus side, though, is that it's already got the 6-speed and type-2 3.9 torsen diff. Those two pieces, on the aftermarket (with lower miles) is worth $1200-1500, then there's the hassle of installation... But if all you're going to do is BEGI S, you don't really need the extra strength of the 6-speed, so to you personally its value is diminished. If the suspension hasn't been replaced, it should be, so those bilsteins aren't really worth anything.

Lots of things to balance. I personally like the other '99 you were looking at. Check them out in person and see which one is in better shape!

I went to go see the white car with the hard top today. Very nice, he even had maintenance records. I talked him down a bit and I'm gonna go ahead and try to buy it, assuming NavyFed doesn't try and ass rape me again with the interest rate, and assuming everything checks out when I have it looked at.

If you're not putting money down they're gonna kill you on the interest because you're borrowing more than blue book.

All loans for used cars are rapage.

I'm going to get forcibly sodomized on the interest rate no matter what, but I am putting money down. Part of the reason I'm buying the car is to help develop credit, that way when I want to buy a house someday I'll have a good credit history.

I'd suggest finding a good bank to build a relationship and stay there. We have had 3 prior auto/motorcycle loans through a certain credit union. When we went to get a loan on an '04 Jetta diesel with no money down, they lent us the full amount without asking for proof of anything at a 4.5% rate. Not the best ever but it's not a newer car.

I'm not some old guy with amazing credit either, I'm 26.

Anyway, yes build your credit with that pretty white car. It really looks like a nice one!

Use a credit union if you can. Better interest rates on your money, as well as on loans.

Thanks, I was really impressed with it. Looks to be in better shape then cars half its age.

Thats what I'm doing, I have Navy Federal. I'm going to look into USAA as well, that way I could get my auto insurance and banking done at the same place.

USAA is awesome. Once you build up a relationship with then you'll get the best rates there. I'm a car salesman and people who finance through USAA are always very happy with them.

Only if you're too dumb to join a credit union. I'm paying 1.49% through Penfed right now on a 10 year old car.

The guy sold the white car out from under me. We agreed on a price, and a time for me to come and pick it up and pay the man, and I get an email saying its gone. Fuck.

what an asshole dude

Ahh that really sucks man. The search continues. Buy my car. Lol

Does anyone know of another turbo kit coming out in the next few years? I remember hearing about somebody looking at making a kit other then flyinmiata and begi, just cant remember who.

TSE, Track speed Engineering.

Any word on if it will be CARB legal or not? I'm guessing no.

They've got a thread around here somewhere on it. If you haven't found it by tomorrow or nobody posts it I'll dig it up. I feel like there was a CARB discussion but perhaps no. You said you have to go pre-2000?

Is this the thread your talking about? Ill have to give it a better read.
My options are to either get a pre 2000 car so I can legally turbocharge it in the state of CA, get a NB with a 6 speed and wait to turbocharge it until my enlistment is up and I go back home, or get a MSM. I'm wanting a nice MSM with low miles but the waiting is killing me and the closest one that would be in my price range if I sold my NA right now is 300 miles away, and I'd like to avoid going that far. There is one with 85K that is close, but this is a car I intend on keeping for a very long time, so I'd like to find one with closer to 40K on the clock.

Everyone with NavyFed I've met hates them. I've loved USAA for years. My last loan for my '99 was at 5% last year. No money down. Quick call to ask, approved for 110% of book, didn't use it all, went and got the car. Done.


I grew up in SoCal and I can say screw Cali smog laws. Did something change? Older than 12 yrs you can boost? Got a guy to pay under table?

The previous doctor that owned the building where my parents now have a motorcycle accessory shop is still being hunted by navyfed for a payment...

The people that keep calling are nothing but a bunch of assholes when we keep telling them this is a new business and he isnt here anymore... he owes $170 dollars for some fees and they actually asked us to pay to stop the calling... just as a suggestion...

Dude... there's a clean MSM within 300 miles that's in your price range and you're ruling it out? That's not even that far, especially in an MSM.

But it seems like maybe you've got some financing issues to work out. Have you decided you're going to take a destructive interest rate, or have you find a different/decent financial institution that will loan you money at a reasonable rate? I know you were looking for a cheaper car because of it, but where are you at now? Screwit I'm getting what I want? lol

Oh... and yes, that's the thread I'm talking about. Funny how it starts out with some noob asking the same retarded question: what's safe WHP on my stock bottom end? and it turns into the most informative TSE turbo kit thread.

Skimmed the first page. Looks like they're not pursuing CARB legal kits. Is it difficult to have someone pass it under the table? I had a Jetta VR6 with a bad secondary air pump so it had a CEL and failed emissions but pay the guy an extra $70 and good to go...