"Help me figure out what cat I want" thread # 10000 - Page 2 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 01-04-2013, 06:19 PM   #21
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I'll see if I can find a NC in my aria to test drive tomorrow, I'm probably gonna go see a '04 MSM with 40K miles Sunday.
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Old 01-12-2013, 07:24 PM   #22
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I went to look at the MSM and loved it, I decided I wanted to by it. But then the bank said they wanted to rape me with the interest rate so I'm going to look into some cheaper options.

First is a '94 with an LSD, clean tairless cloth interior, power windows, TEIN S-Tech Springs & Tokico Blue Shocks, Racing Beat front and rear sway bars, ENKEI RP-FI 15x7 wheels, Dunlop Star Specs, Rennenmetal Spec Miata hardtop brackets and a matching hard top. Down side is it has 136K miles so it'll need a compression test. He wants $5K for it but that ain't happannen', I'd give him $4250.

This one already has aftermarket wheels and suspension so it would only need a rollbar and break pads before the turbo kit comes.



Second is a '99, it has a torsen LSD, leather tan interior, factory bose speakers,wind blocker,power door locks/windows and the A/C works. It has oem front lip and sideskirts. Performance wise only has a K&N intake. Along with some 949 racing adjustable endlinks.
Has Garaage Star radiator cooling panel and license plate bracket. Interior is tan leather and he says it's clean. This one is for sale for $5500 and has 126K miles, but I'd buy it for maybe $4500, maybe. This one lacks the wheels and suspension but is in a bodystyle I prefer and is in a better color. Will also need compression test, rollbar, break pads, I don't know about the tires.



Both cars are fs for over bluebook and NADA value, and I could go to a dealership and find one for less but I can't find exactly what I'm looking for at a dealershop atm.

Which one is the better deal?
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Old 01-12-2013, 07:47 PM   #23
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You can go to a DEALERSHIP and find one for less? Are you... sure? Because most dealerships I see listed online have them listed for quite a pretty penny. If that '94 passes a compression test and has a good soft top as well as clean, original paint, it's easily worth close to the $5000 figure IMO. That '99, if it's as clean as the seller says, is worth also very close to his asking price IMO, not $1k less. Edit to add: if the '99 is a torsen, would that not be a 3.9? Does it have a 6-speed as well? If so, that's the better deal IMO.

Miatas almost always go for more than KBB... KBB doesn't buy and sell cars, they make crap up and hope people believe it...
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Old 01-12-2013, 07:58 PM   #24
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99 may have thrust bearing issue. I'd hold out for an 01-05 LS car, which will have all you want and vvt goodness.

Edit: or go for the MSM.
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Old 01-12-2013, 08:34 PM   #25
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You can go to a DEALERSHIP and find one for less? Are you... sure? Because most dealerships I see listed online have them listed for quite a pretty penny. If that '94 passes a compression test and has a good soft top as well as clean, original paint, it's easily worth close to the $5000 figure IMO. That '99, if it's as clean as the seller says, is worth also very close to his asking price IMO, not $1k less. Edit to add: if the '99 is a torsen, would that not be a 3.9? Does it have a 6-speed as well? If so, that's the better deal IMO.
Not sure about the 6 speed, I'll ask. The dealerships are hit and miss in the price, ive seen some cheap miatas.

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99 may have thrust bearing issue. I'd hold out for an 01-05 LS car, which will have all you want and vvt goodness.

Edit: or go for the MSM.
I'm trying to go the cheap route right now, which knocks out the MSM and since I'm in Cali and whatever I get has to comply with CARB, meaning my only options are pre 2000 cars if I want a turbo. I'm going to have to look into the thrust baring issue, is there any way I can tell if the car has or may develop this issue?
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Old 01-12-2013, 08:52 PM   #26
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Push in the clutch, and the crank will push forward as much as a 1/4" IIRC. Then you can pry back the crank with a 2x4, and repeat to your heart's content. There's a video on m.net if you wanna see it in action.
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Old 01-15-2013, 04:45 PM   #27
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Why not just buy an already boosted na or nb????
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Old 01-16-2013, 01:25 AM   #28
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Why not just buy an already boosted na or nb????
Because buying someone elses build is harder than building your own.
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Old 01-16-2013, 11:10 AM   #29
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Because buying someone elses build is harder than building your own.
I'm sorry I didn't see your name as the OP? I agree to some extent, but this is not always the case. Maybe in your own personal experiences you've found it's easier to build your own, but for someone who has the knowledge of what they're getting into, buying something partially built or fully built has it's advantages...
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Old 01-16-2013, 05:33 PM   #30
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I'm sorry I didn't see your name as the OP? I agree to some extent, but this is not always the case. Maybe in your own personal experiences you've found it's easier to build your own, but for someone who has the knowledge of what they're getting into, buying something partially built or fully built has it's advantages...
lol you must be new around here...
...with that attitude you wont last very long.

But i'll let the "OP" or Gearhead address that mr. toughguy.
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Old 01-16-2013, 07:17 PM   #31
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lol you must be new around here...
...with that attitude you wont last very long.

But i'll let the "OP" or Gearhead address that mr. toughguy.
Funny, I thought his attitude fits in completely. You probably just don't like that he directed it at you... and that he's right.
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Old 01-16-2013, 07:19 PM   #32
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lol you must be new around here...
...with that attitude you wont last very long.

But i'll let the "OP" or Gearhead address that mr. toughguy.
Hey no need to get your little panties in a bunch. All I asked was if my original response was addressed to you. Just giving the OP something to think about, just like yourself and everyone else on this thread did. You're the one that made the bold statement with nothing to back it up.

And just because I've lurked this forum since April 11' doesn't mean I'm "new" around here. Usually if I need information ill use the search function, find what I need, and be on my way. To be honest I don't have time to be a keyboard warrior or desire to be.
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Old 01-16-2013, 07:37 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by turbofan View Post
Funny, I thought his attitude fits in completely. You probably just don't like that he directed it at you... and that he's right.
You're cute.


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Originally Posted by jkiech View Post
Hey no need to get your little panties in a bunch. All I asked was if my original response was addressed to you. Just giving the OP something to think about, just like yourself and everyone else on this thread did. You're the one that made the bold statement with nothing to back it up.

And just because I've lurked this forum since April 11' doesn't mean I'm "new" around here. Usually if I need information ill use the search function, find what I need, and be on my way. To be honest I don't have time to be a keyboard warrior or desire to be.
Wasn't getting my ***** tied up, but before asking gearhead a stupid question, try actually reading the thread itself.


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Not sure about the 6 speed, I'll ask. The dealerships are hit and miss in the price, ive seen some cheap miatas.



I'm trying to go the cheap route right now, which knocks out the MSM and since I'm in Cali and whatever I get has to comply with CARB, meaning my only options are pre 2000 cars if I want a turbo. I'm going to have to look into the thrust baring issue, is there any way I can tell if the car has or may develop this issue?
Pre-performance modified-by-owner cars are hard to have in CA.
Legally CARB approved performance builds are much more expensive to actually buy in CA, because of the smog scam.
Read the damn thread instead of the title.
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Old 01-17-2013, 03:46 PM   #34
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I just found a 10AE with a matching hard top, roll bar and recent maintence for a good price. Only problem is it has almost 140k miles. Thoughts?
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Old 01-17-2013, 04:25 PM   #35
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I just found a 10AE with a matching hard top, roll bar and recent maintence for a good price. Only problem is it has almost 140k miles. Thoughts?
140k isnt bad as long as it was maintained properly and not driven obnoxiously hard... what was the recent maintenance? Hard top is a total plus. What are they asking for it?
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Old 01-17-2013, 04:45 PM   #36
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I just found a 10AE with a matching hard top, roll bar and recent maintence for a good price. Only problem is it has almost 140k miles. Thoughts?
Have a compression and leak down test done on the motor. Do physical inspection for flaws. Decide weather the compression and leak down results are reasonable. Buy or don't buy. If you don't want to do it just take it to a shop. It's worth the 75-100 bucks. If you're ready to pull the trigger why not spend the extra couple bucks?

Also make sure all wiring and electronics are in good shape and not messed with.

as quite a few others on this forum I don't mind dropping a new motor in either. So my opinion may be different. I haven't had a car payment in 12 years. The only car I have that doesn't have over 200k is my audi and when or if the time ever comes I'll rebuild or replace that motor too. I'm not saying buy a car with a bad motor. Just that in 5-8 years when the motor may need a refresh (if it's in good condition when you buy it and you continue to take care of it) it's not a big deal. Will you even own the car in 5-8 years?
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Old 01-17-2013, 05:04 PM   #37
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Have a compression and leak down test done on the motor. Do physical inspection for flaws. Decide weather the compression and leak down results are reasonable. Buy or don't buy. If you don't want to do it just take it to a shop. It's worth the 75-100 bucks. If you're ready to pull the trigger why not spend the extra couple bucks?

Also make sure all wiring and electronics are in good shape and not messed with.

as quite a few others on this forum I don't mind dropping a new motor in either. So my opinion may be different. I haven't had a car payment in 12 years. The only car I have that doesn't have over 200k is my audi and when or if the time ever comes I'll rebuild or replace that motor too. I'm not saying buy a car with a bad motor. Just that in 5-8 years when the motor may need a refresh (if it's in good condition when you buy it and you continue to take care of it) it's not a big deal. Will you even own the car in 5-8 years?
A compression tester can be had for 40 - 60 bucks... one of the best purchases I have ever had.
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Old 01-17-2013, 05:20 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pen2_the_penguin View Post
140k isnt bad as long as it was maintained properly and not driven obnoxiously hard... what was the recent maintenance? Hard top is a total plus. What are they asking for it?
Quote:
Originally Posted by krissetsfire View Post
Have a compression and leak down test done on the motor. Do physical inspection for flaws. Decide weather the compression and leak down results are reasonable. Buy or don't buy. If you don't want to do it just take it to a shop. It's worth the 75-100 bucks. If you're ready to pull the trigger why not spend the extra couple bucks?

Also make sure all wiring and electronics are in good shape and not messed with.

as quite a few others on this forum I don't mind dropping a new motor in either. So my opinion may be different. I haven't had a car payment in 12 years. The only car I have that doesn't have over 200k is my audi and when or if the time ever comes I'll rebuild or replace that motor too. I'm not saying buy a car with a bad motor. Just that in 5-8 years when the motor may need a refresh (if it's in good condition when you buy it and you continue to take care of it) it's not a big deal. Will you even own the car in 5-8 years?
He wants 5K. Just noticed the hardtop does not come with the car and has been sold, it does however have a rollbar. Car looks clean inside and out, leading me to believe it's been well taken care of.

Quote:
clutch, water pump, timing belt, thermostat
Tune-up - Spark plug, fuel filter, air filter, valve cover gasket, intake cleaner, fuel treatment
Drain and fill rear differential fluid flush
Drain and fill manual transmission fluid
Remove and replace sway bar end links
Oil change <1000 miles
Oxidation on hood/front bumper


MiataBumperCoverX.jpg photo by carsnohomo | Photobucket

I'm going to San Diego Saturday to check out a couple of other cars and I think I'm gonna have to try and see this one too. I'll have which ever one I like the most looked at and have a compression test done. Whichever car I get I plan on turboing in the near future, just a begi-s kit probably but I wan't to make sure the car can handle it.
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Old 01-17-2013, 09:57 PM   #39
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gay bra is gay.

Front bumper has taken its share of beatings and is missing the factory lower lip.

Otherwise car looks pretty decent. At this point, with the condition and miles, I don't feel that the 10AE aspect of it adds any real value, except for a neat looking color combo and cool interior.

On the HUGE plus side, though, is that it's already got the 6-speed and type-2 3.9 torsen diff. Those two pieces, on the aftermarket (with lower miles) is worth $1200-1500, then there's the hassle of installation... But if all you're going to do is BEGI S, you don't really need the extra strength of the 6-speed, so to you personally its value is diminished. If the suspension hasn't been replaced, it should be, so those bilsteins aren't really worth anything.

Lots of things to balance. I personally like the other '99 you were looking at. Check them out in person and see which one is in better shape!
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Old 01-19-2013, 07:45 PM   #40
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I went to go see the white car with the hard top today. Very nice, he even had maintenance records. I talked him down a bit and I'm gonna go ahead and try to buy it, assuming NavyFed doesn't try and *** rape me again with the interest rate, and assuming everything checks out when I have it looked at.
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