When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Do you want downward weight or do you want compressive force? Compressive force would be a good deal greater because of the angle of the mounts.
I ******* love this forum.
I was going to calculate the compressive force by factoring in the angles, and did not want to bother anyone with such intricacies.
But, holy crap, man. That would be awesome.
Maybe I'm just not enough of a DIY'er, but I've never really understood the need to cobble together mini-amps and bluetooth dongles and mounting brackets and blanking plates and power sources and all of that.
I spent $55 on one of these Clarion mechless head units and it does exactly what I want -- it pairs with my phone automatically within 5 seconds, has an easy to read display with a big volume **** on the left side, handles hands-free calling, and has USB, aux-in, and SD card ports. And it still gets AM/FM if I run out of digital media to listen to.
Maybe I'm just not enough of a DIY'er, but I've never really understood the need to cobble together mini-amps and bluetooth dongles and mounting brackets and blanking plates and power sources and all of that.
I spent $55 on one of these Clarion mechless head units and it does exactly what I want -- it pairs with my phone automatically within 5 seconds, has an easy to read display with a big volume **** on the left side, handles hands-free calling, and has USB, aux-in, and SD card ports. And it still gets AM/FM if I run out of digital media to listen to.
When you're **** gets broken into 5 times in 2 years, you learn to start hiding **** in the dash behind blanking plates. I have one of the mechless head units in my truck. I refuse to lock it and i leave the head unit "L keys" in plain view in the center console. Im so sick of replacing door glass, replacing shattered bezels and rewiring the dash stereo connections.
The dog is in a shoebox wrapped in plastic bags, and we don't open it.
This past year, it was joined by a guinea pig.
Keeping dead pets in the freezer is becoming a family tradition. Granted, it'll probably be a few years before any more are added (although one of the Boston terriers is borderline suicidal), but the dog has already outlived (outdied?) one freezer.
Update:
My sister has informed me that they have just buried both the dog and the guinea pig.
I feel as though a family tradition has been violated.
RIP, Lexi, the bestest little fuzzbutt ever to walk the earth.
Maybe I'm just not enough of a DIY'er, but I've never really understood the need to cobble together mini-amps and bluetooth dongles and mounting brackets and blanking plates and power sources and all of that.
I spent $55 on one of these Clarion mechless head units and it does exactly what I want -- it pairs with my phone automatically within 5 seconds, has an easy to read display with a big volume **** on the left side, handles hands-free calling, and has USB, aux-in, and SD card ports. And it still gets AM/FM if I run out of digital media to listen to.
If you head over to my build thread you will see that I want that space for switches and *****. I just want basic audio input. No display or anything taking up space.
Its been dead for years, adding flavor to the ice.
Yeah, should have clarified that. The dog died years ago, they only just now got around to burying it. Been in the freezer below the popsicles the whole time.
I don't care about that as much. I need to know how deep of holes to ream. I'm going to then set the rail in place and do brackets around that. Or a jig based off the stock rail. don't know yet
Exactly. So the measurement you are asking for is meaningless, and the one I mentioned is all you need. Do you want to capture the injector between the rail and mani, or float it a little?
Do they really maintain a useful charge for many months of storage untouched in a freezing cold trunk?
Asking for a friend whose '04 with a six month old East-Penn battery almost didn't start tonight, despite the temperature being well above 0°F. (Yes, he knows to check the alternator output under load. No, he hasn't done it yet because he can't find his damn Fluke 77 at the moment.)
No they aren't. I want the rail as low as possible. So it doesn't interfere with the upper manifold.
I guess you are welding the tabs on, that makes sense. Id bet the limitation will be in the extrusion and not the top hat. You could also chamfer it substantially to let the curve drop in a little more.
12-12-2016, 10:46 AM
0
