from their website (RD 6105) 100W x 2 at <0.9% THD. beyond that it's probably power supply limited since the power supply transformer has probably the most significant impact on sustained power ability. hence heavier = better (unless you go class D / T). the more you load the PS, the lower the rail voltages sag and the less loud the amp can play. trying to play at the same wattage with lower rail voltage increases distortion. generally speaking.

the 7502 appears to be able to drive all channels at 100W at <.2% THD. not bad.

I just bought a Sansui G 4700 for 150 shipped. It's rated 50 watts RMS at .008% THD. . Another site says the G4700 was 50 watts at <.05%THD. Research shows my old Sansui 2000X was 52 watts RMS at .8% THD, so this one is much better. Still, it sounded incredible, much better than my 100 watt's a channel Pioneer I had at the time, which was 100 watts at .9% THD. From what I can tell, this one should be great. Now I need to make up my mind on speakers. I'm really close to buying the Zaph kit Blaque suggested, seems like a great deal to me.


http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...TODAY.m238.lVI

Hehe, the Zaph setup is not gonna be beat at that price.

If you're only gonna go stereo plus a sub, than I would use this amp personally:

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=248-749

Because it's super G. :D

behringer is cheap, but they're cheap.

I have a pair of these. Bought many years ago, they saw some hard use. Wife hates 'em because they're so large. They aren't the cleanest sounding speakers, but if you like bass, there aren't many that can touch them unless you spend stupid amounts of cash. They make great speakers for watching movies with lots of gunfire and explosions!

Have them hooked up to an Adcom amp, pumping out insane watts, but I forget the specs now. Recently, I had to run new wires, and when I popped off the grilles noticed that the woofer surrounds had degraded to the point of disintegration. Lucky for me, there are replacement kits available on the web.

I would highly reccomend the Adcom components. Lots of clean power, and damn near bulletproof. They have these freakishly large capacitors in the amp. One demonstration of their reserve power is to turn off the amp. It still plays for 15 seconds before it fades out.

I just ordered the Zaph kit Blaque suggested, 241.88 for all the components shipped. Now I gotta get a sheet of MDF and build the enclosures. tweeters aint cheap! They were like 86 I think for 2, more than all the woofers. Oh well, I hope it sounds good.

they still do tube amps...if you're interested..

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/forum....php?forumid=5

I got a couple questions. In THIS blueprint, is this showing two braces with the center lining up with the woofer, or a brace on each side and one in the middle? I'm planing on building the 1 cubic foot enclosure and hanging the speakers off of the ceiling.

the brace is probably just a flat piece with large holes cut into it. it'll be the same size as the inside of the box and glued into place. then cut a few big holes so air passes through easily. since you're bracing flat panels rather than corners, try to cut the holes so there's still a solid piece of material in a couple places that connect opposite walls.

here's a good example. you can round-over the edges of the cuts so they're not sharp if you want. airflow.

http://www.partsexpress.com/projects...osurecons1.jpg

I'd argue that given the driver size and the wattage you'll be using, extra bracing won't be needed. It will affect the internal volume slightly, though.

But I'm going deaf in my old age and have given up my desire to be considered an audiophile. :)

I've got Axiom audio monitors that I swear use those aluminum Dayton woofers.

Frank

the bracing will help some at all volumes (loudness, not cubic dimension) because it reduces the vibration of the flat panels of the speaker box. it's like putting dynamat on your doors to prevent them from going boom boom.

UPDATE: I got the woofers yesterday, but still waiting on all the other components and the receiver. I started building the first box today. It's not perfect but not too bad. I was having hell making straight cuts with a cheap ass saw working from my cramped kitchen floor. I'm used to using a Makita. I finally figured out to setup a jig to guide the saw and that works much better, so second box will be a wee bit more square. I installed one brace. If it looks good let me know. If it looks like a failure lie and say it looks good. :bigtu: I plan to get it built, then disassemble it and glue everything and screw it all together, then seal it up with silicone or something, though it seems pointless.

http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/e...nsTablesaw.jpg

http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/e...peakerbox1.jpg

Also, I didn't buy anything for connections. On subwoofers I've build for cars, I always used a piece of all-thread going through the box with a nut and washer to secure it on both sides, then put a washer, wire, washer, nut, and tighten the piss out of it. Is that really a good way to do it? I was also thinking I could just drill two small holes in the box and pull the wires through it, then silicone them so air can't leak. Then solder the wires for a connection. Wouldn't that be better?

Ghetto ass. Buy a terminal cup. :giggle:

http://www.darvex.com/miva/graphics/00000001/BPSG.jpg

at the very least get the banana terminals/binding posts that are 2 inches long. They're just like what ben posted a picture of but work like your allthread solution.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...umber=091-1245

also make yourself a sawboard. very useful if you dont have a tablesaw.
http://members.aol.com/woodmiser1/sawbd.htm

ALSO
make sure you flush mount the speakers in the cabinets. I know you will think it's superfluous, but it will really smooth out the response. If you're going to think it's not worth the effort, at least do the tweeters. Check out zaphs article on it:
http://www.zaphaudio.com/mtg-surface.html

Matt

Not disagreeing, but the cup should cost half (if not less) than these.


Agreed. Tweeters only will be fine, and really not hard at all.

Hmm, well I didn't order any banana terminals or any other binding post so would Radio Shack have something that would work? Also, my run the wires out and solder them idea sounds good to me, and wouldn't soldering them be better anyway?

Oh yea, and I have a table saw and all kinds of nice stuff, just not up here at MSU. I don't have a router either up here. Is there any other way to do it? I have a dremel and I think they make a router attachment, but it probably cost as much as a real router... If there's a ghetto way to counter sink the tweaters I'll just do that, or wait till I can bring a router up here and do it then.

Also again, that article Matt posted the last graph is with a 1" woofer/tweater clearance and surface mounted woofer, flush mounted tweater. Should I just do that and move the tweater so I have a 1" clearance instead of the 1/8" clearance the Zaph kit uses?

it may be hard to flush mount the tweeter after you cut the hole. you'll have to find a bit that exactly matches the flange dimension. maybe that's possible. actually you should see if MSU has a wood shop that has the tools you need. I bet they do. somewhere. follow the architects.

I doubt radio shack has the binding posts but they may have terminal cups. unfortunately they're just cheapo spring loaded ones. you could also try a car audio place. they may have them for sub boxes.

Moving the tweeters may be a problem.
http://www.zaphaudio.com/email.html <-- 2nd and 3rd questions. ;)

I have a bunch of old focal shit in the house, with their 15" multi-magnet sub in a box. Shit rocks out.

yeah, the design of the box is actually a vital point for Zaph. Flush mounting shit, chamfering edges, and other stuff.

just finish making that box and ghetto it out, then do REALLY REALLY well on the next box and make it perfect for absolute audio perfection. lol idk