I will now join the ranks of idiots who do not safety wire
 

I've learned my lesson:

http://i33.tinypic.com/jq6rzr.jpg
http://i37.tinypic.com/2evqff5.jpg
http://i37.tinypic.com/21mgmsm.jpg

ewwwww.....like looking at a trainwreck

Sorry to hear man....(sigh)

btw, I took the turbo off in less than 15-minutes. V-Band clamp win.

This is not a train wreck...its an easy fix to something I should have done from the start. I am not upset about this at all. Human fail, absurdflow win.

why did the retainer pull off the housing like tat? heat?

harmonics most likely. However I'm a bureaucrat, not an engineer. They need a mechanical lock.

aww poor turbo ='(

Is there some kind of award for the person who has suffered the greatest number of mechanical failures related to fasteners on a turbocharger, and yet still won't give up?

It's pretty tough to give up or cry after you spent a day crushing vettes and exotics.

When I assembled this car a year ago, I bolted everything together. Today every fastener is dressed with anti-seize, torqud to spec, and the hot parts will all have a mechanical locker. I realized that even though I'm a layman paper pusher, I've built a racecar and put more stress through it than any former convention suggests. Aparently savington and I are a rare breed. I'm a man, I'm 40.

Dear god, I pity you people and all of your boosted problems. Easy fix... don't have a turbo and stop caring about your car like me! :giggle:

At least it wasn't a v-band issue, in which case I would be really sad and at the same time would be laughing for your misfortune. Get it fixed and get back to Vette murder.

I'm "doing this" at a level where conventional logic, materials, and designs fail. A handfull of fabricators are getting a lot of r&d from us for free. It seems to me that fastener have not recieved the respect they require.

Diggin the flops in the video...:giggle:

This is why every bolt on the fsae car is required to be safety wired. My roommate is dubbed the "safety wire team leader" because he spent two weeks last year removing every bolt, drilling a small hole in the head, then safety wiring it in place.

Your girlfriend dug them too. It is the superior footwear. I'm working on a utility flipper flopper for the California poser who is afraid to chop off a toe with the floor jack.

I'm tempted to drill them all by hand. Should I go buy a drill press for this.

How do safety wires work if the bolt goes into a blind hole?

I know nothing about this...

**nvm

http://www.rc51.org/Finished%20Wire%20Pics/drill.jpg
http://stainless.eclipticcms.com/ima...er%20Bolts.JPG

Just google it.


Edit: nice ninja edit

Make or buy one of these...probably ease the process
SAFETY WIRE DRILLING JIG from Aircraft Spruce

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...s/12-16600.jpg

I had all sorts of shit safety wired on the 91, until I got tired of cutting the shit out of my fingers, hands, and arms any time I even looked at the motor. As time went on, anything I removed that was safety wired, was replaced without safety wire.

Different applications though. That car had a gentle life, and only embarrassed expensive stuff on the street.

It looks like it's NOT threaded...is this right? I need to use metric sized shit on this.

even if it is threaded, you'll have a drill press. Drill out the next smaller hole with a drill bit who's diameter is a hair larger that then what your calipers read when you measure the O.D. of your bolt. Voila. It's no mill or lathe, but my drill press has impressed me with all the stuff I do with it. A larger one is ideal, as you can bolt a hf $50 "cross slide vise" to the table and do lots of stuff easily. I did this with a table top unit, but you're limited in height, and I run into the stand once in a while with longer stuff.

Sorry to hear about your luck dude, that does suck. Two thumbs up on the V band though! Did you loctite them? Blue/red?

You're trolling, right?

dude, just go V8 and forget about all the problems with hardware failing! seriously - you get a lot of torque, a lot of hp, and no problems with turbo hardware failures. instaspool too!

Miata part middle-man life fail.

How many sessions did you get in? Did it happen on the track?

Nope, why? Too hot for the hotside?

According to the telemtry, I went off at 86mph and slid 282' through the grass in the 5th session. I discovered lots of soot on the silver heat wrap then and decided to not run the sixth. However, confidence is way up and I'm driving the shit out of this car now.

Safety wire jig, metric.. google is your friend.

SAFETY WIRE BLOCK / JIG - METRIC - RACING, MOTOCROSS:eBay Motors (item 120389445260 end time Nov-04-09 05:17:23 PST)

Additional safety wire advice... buy the best drill bits you can get (and get them 5-10 at a time), HF/HD stuff won't cut it, particularly for socket head bolts. We buy most of our drill bits/end mills from KBCtools, the cobalt high speed steel (HSS) bits are what you're looking for. When you wire something, fold the end over, you will VERY rarely cut yourself on the ends if you're religious about it. In the example of the header bolts above the wire isn't folded over far enough and WILL eventually catch someones finger... safety wire cuts hurt like hell. Get good safety wire pliers, I have an SK pair that are reversible and they're absolutely great. I bought them off of EBay for $80 and worth every penny (btw Snap-On sell the EXACT same pair for over double what I paid... they're even marked the same). Here's another EBay link... exact pliers I have SK Tool 6" Safety Wire Twisting Plier Auto Return S-K - eBay (item 120407050802 end time Oct-12-09 15:55:48 PDT)

Thank you for the advice on the wiring. I have what you'd probably consider the "budget" SK pliars. I'm dealling with little 10mm bolt heads, what size wire should I use?

I think you are an idiot for not doing this from the get go considering the same thing happened to Sav.

We thought resbond would work and I was trying to avoid buying a press for an obscene amount of money. Thanks for the additional insult to injury. With any luck you'll die from rhino horn-fucking trauma.

You first fucktard. You deserve insult to be added.

I wouldn't expect any chemical locker to withstand the temperatures of a turbo hotside. I say buy a used drill press or a cheapo one from harborfreight to make this happen. Or use the drill you already have and the jig or a vise and go to town.

So you resbonded the turbine housing bolts and they still backed out?!

Karma backed them out.

His karma ran over his dogma...

I would like to know this too.

yes, I yanked the turbo after the first install and put res bond in prior to running at hallett. Mechanical fasteners are the way.

fuk, i shall safety wire when the new setup arrives i guess.

Ha! I thought I was the only one that worked on cars in flip flops.

APR has a header bolt kit with metal clips to keep then from backing out. Mabe they have some smaller. I wouldn't like having to wire everything.

What does the manufacturer say????

yes, you shall.

.032 is kind of the primary size I use at work... occasionally .020 or .041 get used but those are generally either very tiny bolts or ring gear bolts (.020) on Can Am cars putting out 700+lbs of torque (.041)

For your usage just go with the .032... a 1lb spool ought to last a long time.

You may want to consider something other than SS for the hotside safety wire ie MS20995NC32 Monel Safety Wire (.032 Diameter), ASTM B164* The largest selection of Aircraft parts and Pilot Supplies.- SkyGeek.com or better yet, inconel http://www.skygeek.com/ms20995n32.html

Utter BS.

More like TiAL housing fail, because this is the 2nd time I've seen this on a TiAL housing. Never before on a Garrett one. Mine has been on and off two times.

Why is SS insufficient?

?

Maybe TiAL housing tolerances are just different?

Can't handle the heat. It will get brittle and break in time. the inconel is much more resistant to heat.

Sorry, why is SS safety wire insufficient?

I asked the TiAL guy a few questions about this crap and I'll post his response here.

One last question about the resbond. Did you clean the threads on the bolts and the female threads on the housing before assembly, with a no-residue solvent, like brake cleaner?

In Hustler terms, did you wash your Johnson, and did she douche, before you did the nasty?

I did at the time. Clean like a baby.

i guess garrett has a top secret loctite like material that pwnz rezbond

Me thinks TiAL has different thread tolerances or reusing the bolts in new threads is a free ticket to fail boat paradise.

+1

I talked to the Tial guy and he said he only knew of this happening once before on one of their F2 racecars and they used some crazy-expensive bolts that stopped it. He suggested safety wire. I'm not really thrilled that they chose to not share this with me from the start. How hard is it to say "if you're going to race the car, you must safety wire bolts xyz?"

However, they're exchanging the center section for a reasonable price.

When everything is right, the turbo should last years of track time...right? This is about to be too expensive for me.

Jah, and they are omitting Sav's event of the same?!

I'm gonna make little bend over tabbies for Nick out of the same .045" material I use for the reinfocement squares. Should do the same thing as safety wire but simplier, easier, cheaper.

Making one of those safetywire jigs would be easy too, i have some leftover angle iron from my BEGI/FM 3" downpipe jig...tap one side in that metric thread, clamp/bolt to a drill press, get good bits, go to town. But i'll spend my time on the bendy tab things first.

They don't know about his failure.


I blasted brake-cleaner through the surfaced before I applied the thread locker. I'm thinking extreme harmonics. On a lighter note, my manifold still looks perfect.

I was thinking about the whole problem of studs backing out etc and wondering how manufacturers deal with it without vbands. I wonder if manufacturers (like garret) are able to manufacture both studs/fasteners and the housing (turbine housing or manifold) with much higher quality thanks to high-quantity-cost-efficiencies.

Reworded, I wonder if OEM (or near OEM) manufacturers are able to cheaply produce parts with very very high tolerances for cheap since they produce ten billion of em.

Safety wiring everything on the car with b166 inconel now using the ebay jig. Its time to get militant.