I like this guy:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1368532846

Bike Geek
 

Few here know of my background in cycling. From about '92-03 that's all I did. Worked in the bike industry, raced and trained constantly. Managed a few state and national championships in XC, cyclocross, TT and TTT. I am still very much a bike geek.

Cyclocross
D/A 7900 & XTR M980
Egg Beater 11
Home built ebay carbon 1200g 38mm tubulars with Tufo's
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1368584958

Cervelo S5
Ui2
Zipp 404 firecrest clinchers
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1368584958

Pivot 429 carbon
XTR race disc group
180 cranks
XTR shadow long cage RD
XTR direct mount FD
180/160mm Avid clean sweep rotors
Turnix PRO carbon railed seat
O/S carbon bar

Stans Crest 32h
F Project 321 Lefty DT revo black spokes 3x
Lefty 120 PBR carbon fork
Crank Bros 11 ti pedals

23.8 lbs with pedals and cage.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1368584958

On the way to the '01 state (district) CX championship win wearing the reigning state champs jersey.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1368584958

Criterium in '04
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1368584958

State Team Trial Champs '03. I think we won that year.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1368584958

Racing Sea Otter in my Stars 'n Stripe national champions jersey
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1368584958

Old full-carbon Trek. Not sure of model but I adore it. I have a few 10-15 mile loops that I'll do after work and every time I ride into the driveway it's like the bike wants to keep going.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1368589737

Even though this bike is relatively old and carbon bike technology has advanced quite a bit, I am a believer in carbon. On rough asphalt the difference is pretty incredible. However, I believe the road surface and tire choice affect comfort more than frame material. If you want a smooth ride, scope out some smooth roads. I switched to cheapo tires from gatorskins and was blown away by how much it helped the ride.

I had a very similar trek OCLV back in the day, pretty nice bike. I sold mine and got a random issic impulse I found on craigs list about 5 years ago... the issic geometry is actually a little aggressive for me these days, need to get back to a fighting weight! I think I might be too heavy for my wheels now... lol.

I have some pretty fun bikes, gotta get some pictures posted soon

Emilio with the Dura Ace post in my poverty thread. :cry:

CX may get a go in the fall from me. Until then, John and I are still crushing almost every day.

One drop, one bar-smash, one wreck, or even one chain-stay touching a curb means you are out a frame. That's too fragile for my taste.

well you gotta burn through the top coat to have a problem. I know lots of people who have had pretty wrecks on CF bikes and the bike was not totaled per whoever looked at it.

I see your point though, Ive been reluctant to make the jump to a CF mountain bike but for anything else I would not think twice, the benefits are just too great to not do it

plus many bike makers have a decent crash replacement program for people who fall off their bike alot...


white fly, keep an eye on those hubs, they have a reputation for cracking around the spokes.

And Gatorskins aren't really high-performance tires either. A really good tire, like a Conti GP4000, makes a dramatic difference in ride and grip compared to most original-spec tires. The top-end clinchers are so good that tubulars aren't really worth the hassle anymore.

But I run Gatorskins too. The loss in smoothness and grip is well worth NEVER getting a puncture.

Also, this:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1368628661

How much less grip does a Gator have compared to the GP4K? I have Mavic Detonators now and they are they are "fine". I ran Seca RS previously and they were definitely smoother.

Don't know how to quantitatively communicate the difference, but I'll say that the GP4000's I tried for a while had more grip than I was comfortable using. Maybe if I were Belgian, 135 lbs, and had 7% body fat.

I thought about a GP4K up front and a Gator on back. Is that homo?

Anyone here have experience with Bicycle Wheel Warehouse's Blackset Race or Vuelta's Corsa Superlight wheelsets? They are both sub $400, appx 1500g and from what I read of good construction. I know, considering price-weight-strength pick two but I've heard good things about these.

I am 140lbs and they will be going on my CAAD9, replacing the stock Shimano WH-R561 (1800g - pictured earlier). The front is damaged so I'm going to upgrade both. I want a lighter wheelset that I can train on and then begin entry-level racing in the next coming year. Recent college grad (this weekend) so no 1k+ suggestions if you can help it.

Tire decision will come next. I'm listening close to what you guys are saying.

Rear flats are maybe 3x more likely than fronts. Rear tire wear is also roughly 2-3x faster than front. So a lot of riders will run a harder compound rear with greater puncture resistance. I had some Specialized Flak Jackets (not as burly as impenetrable Armadillos) that rode too hard for S5. Aero frames with aero posts don't have nearly the compliance of rounder tubed bikes so they need a little help in the wheel and tire dept. Changing to wheels with fewer and smaller spokes helped a bunch too. Most of the OEM wheelsets these days are sorta faux aero with rigid 19-28mm alloy rims and >120kg/cm tension spokes which tend to ride really hard. The wheels that came on the S5 were like that and rode like bricks.

The local Performance bike shop (bought out Supergo several years ago) had red Michelin Pro4's on sale at half price so I snapped up a bunch. Not super puncture resistant but they ride great. My long days are 100+miles so the extra comfort is worth the slight increase in puncture risk.

And yes, you will be a crosser. It is written.

+1 for Conti
I havent ridden the gp4000s but I have a pair of older Conti Ultrasports on my roadie right now. They also have more grip than I am comfortable using, lol. I find it hard to spend $40+ per tire for a bicycle, and im probalby missing out on something because of it, but i'm not quite there as a rider. I'm also fat and slow. My long rides are 25miles. :loser:

Look into Neuvation. I went through this same search last year and ended up with a set of M28xAero. HIgly rated on BikeRadar. The "aero" is more like what Emilio just described, 26mm deep, 19mm wide aluminum, 20/24 flat spoke. Decals come off super easy too :p
Neuvation Wheels - www.neuvationcycling.com

For a mountain bike I'm with you 100%. But this is not a mountain bike. It's been ridden roughly 25,000 miles including commutes in downtown LA and Brooklyn, been tossed in the back of my car countless times and generally ill treated while being kept in my tiny dwellings and it's ready for more.

At this point, I couldn't go back to aluminum. Not for a newer bike or sexier frame. A lugged steel tourer might be fun, but carbon owns for going fast for a long time as comfortably as possible.

Word. I'll take a look at them.

O RLY!?

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-t...480/13%2B-%2B1

In all the miles I've ridden I've gotten two punctures. One was the above gatorskin. Now I just bring a phone which I use to track my rides anyways.

I hardly ever get punctures on my GP4000s, but got them quite often on the Michelin Pro Race 2s.

I like my carbon frame & wheels but I wouldn't run carbon bars.

Do you guys use Strava?

I'm on Strava. Haven't uploaded a ride in a while.

LOL I'll keep that in mind in case I ever have to ride through a razor blade factory.

Good thing that didn't flip up and hit you in the wiener.

Narrowly missed and bounced right off me 'ol balls of steel.

Seriously, though, it was not fun. It sounded like a gunshot and then like an expensive rim on asphalt. None of the tire repair stuff that I had hauled around all over the place were ever going to be able to fix it so I had to talk a friend out of bed to take me home.

Balla Bicycle thread?!

Im all about this, yall dont know baller, Im about to learn you.

I gots a maroon bike.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1368760760


Here is whats so baller.......it folds up to slightly less, but still quite impractical size.
BOOM!!!!
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1368760760

I know, I just blew your mind. Dont worry life will return to normal in a few weeks. You'll get over it.

I'll jump into this thread even though I don't currently "own" a bike.

My current (as of last week) ride is a 2006 LeMond Buenos Aires. I don't have any pics to post but it's like this ----> 2006 LeMond Buenos Aires - BikePedia

As far as I can tell not much as been changed on it except for the wheels, it doesn't have the Bontrager wheels. Otherwise it's as described on bikepedia, hybrid steel/carbon frame, Shimano gears and brakes, Bontrager seatpost and handlebars, etc.

I know almost nothing about bikes and have been thinking about getting a road bike for a couple of years for training (training for the racing of cars that is). My neighbor happens to be a huge rider/bikey and last Sunday I stopped by is garage to ask him some questions about road bikes, mostly what size bike I should be looking for. He sent me home with the LeMond...letting me borrow it to see if I actually want to try cycling for training.

Went for a 11 mile ride the other day, first real bike ride since like high school or something stupid. My butt is still adjusting...

My neighbor has mentioned that he might be willing to sell me the bike if I'm interested in purchasing after my extended test ride. I have no idea how much a bike like this is worth. It's definitely used, and some of the aluminum parts have a tiny bit of surface corrosion. I haven't asked him how many miles it has, but he said it's mostly been hanging in his garage unused for the last couple of years.

SO, all knowing bike lords, how much is something like this worth? How much would you pay for it? In what little research I've done, it seems the original MSRP on this bike was somewhere between $1800-2300? I can find a number for sure. I also can't find many of the LeMond Beunos Aires on CL to compare prices. I don't have much to spend, unfortunately I don't have a grand sitting around to buy a bike and gear. My neighbor is super duper nice and I'm sure he'd give me a killer deal on it, but I don't want to low ball him either.

Anyway, I'm a biker grom, I would love to get into more...

First step on the journey is finding a good LBS (local bike shop). They can help size you. This is important. Tell them a friend has a used bike but you're also considering a new entry level bike. If you start riding regularly, you'll be visiting the shop more often so choose the shop wisely. I recommend visiting all the local shops and just browsing a bit. Get a feel for which one you want to call home. A bad bike shop can sour you on cycling if they screw a few things up.

Bikes retain value like computers and race cars, which is to say, they don't.
A 7 year old $1800 bike might be worth $600 now. I might pay $450. Like computers, the sub systems change so new parts aren't always compatible. New entry level bikes tend to be better than 5 year old mid level bikes. More gears, better brakes, better shifters, lighter, etc. So unless the used bike is say, less than half of a new entry level bike, I'd pass. It will need usually little maintenance items like a new chain, tires, tune up, bar tape that will nickel and dime you up to the cost of a new bike.

If the cyclist neighbor is a halfway competent bike mechanic, have him go through the bike thoroughly to make it ready for lots of miles. Maybe ask him to throw in one free tune up within the first 6 weeks. So if it needs and tweaking or fine tuning, you're not out more money at the LBS.

Buy a new bike and it's dialed and ready for thousands of miles of course. Most shops offer the first tune up free, some offer lifetime tune ups and minor adjustments.

All that aside, the Lemond is a good bike. Made in China by Trek's supplier but very good quality.

Cool, thanks for all the input. Gives me some food for thought.

just bought four Maxxis Detonator tires from Pricepoint because they were $24/each, 5 road tubes, 5 29er tubes, some bar tape, and that should have gone to my next set of tires, lol.

For the carbon-haters:

Would mouth:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1369432870
Steerer length fail.

MOAR SPACERS.

I think it's a beach cruiser.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1369435047
That's better.

Time to class it up a little
 

Race bike for this year:

Here is my budget commuter bike. It's cheap like my beer and white like my clan robe :giggle:

http://imageshack.us/a/img197/9856/img0200d.JPG

This is mine. Maxarya 1x, wish I had more time to ride it. Cool bike, gets looks everywhere and with my back a standard bike is a no go.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1369624102


Frame AL7005 T6 heat-treated
Seat Mesh and foam, AL7005 frame, fully adjustable
Stem AL7005 T6 adjustable
Drivetrain Sram DualDrive 27 speed, disc brake
Cassette Sram PG 980, 9 speed 11-34T
Crankset Maxarya alloy-32T
Chainring set Maxarya four-arm spider, alloy single 32T
Chain Sram PC59, 9 speed
Brake levers Sram 7.0
Front brake Avid mechanical disc brake
Rear brake Avid mechanical disc brake
Pedals VP-519A alloy cage
Front fork Aprebic 16" suspension, alloy, adjustable
Headset Cane Creek PDF 1 1/8" alloy sealed
Bottom Bracket VP-BC73 double sealed mechanism
Rear shock Cane Creek AD-5 air
Front rim 16" double wall, CNC, black
Rear rim 20" double wall, CNC, black
Front hub Formula RB61, 32H, alloy sealed, disc
Rear hub Sram DualDrive hub, 32H, disc
Front tire Kenda Kwest 16"x1.50" 100 psi
Rear tire Kenda Kwest 20"x1.50" 100 psi
Spokes Stainless steel 14G
Overall length 72" (183 cm)
Wheelbase 54.5" (138 cm)
Seat height 26"- 27" (66-68.5 cm)
BB height 19.5" (49.5 cm)
Weight 33 lbs. (14.5 kg)
Rider weight limit 250 lbs. (114 kg)
Rider height range 5' 1"- 6' 5" (155-196 cm)
Gear inch range 19"- 110"

Alex Zanardi.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1369624899

I wish I had a fraction of his motivation. Dude just doesn't give up.

I also wish I had a Zanardi edition NSX, but that's another topic.

What a champion!

I find I am either modding my car or modding my bike. I don't have the desire to do both at once. :giggle:

I did ~8 hours of dirt bike riding yesterday at Red River (Red Bull Hare Scramble), then awoke with a charlie horse in my left calf, awake later with a charlie horse in my right calf, then Jeff and I did like 12 miles of awesome MTB riding today. My body is devastated.

[QUOTE=IcantDo55;1015580]This is mine. Maxarya 1x, wish I had more time to ride it. Cool bike, gets looks everywhere and with my back a standard bike is a no go.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1369624102

those things look so ghay but damn are they fun to ride.

+1

Sat: 55 miles, 6300' climbing in 4 hrs - road bicycle
Sun: 40 miles, 5000' rocky jeep trail/fire road on enduro motorcycle
Mon: 78 miles, 2800' climbing - road bicycle

ow

zOMG. You are a man. Any tips for getting my pace up other than to aim for a .1 increase in average speed daily?

Basic advice

1. Train hard
2. Train specific
3. Train no harder than you can recover from


1- That means becoming friends with pain. When you're having a decent day on the bike, dig deep for short periods. When you think there isn't anything left coming over the crest of a hill and you're in oxygen debt, grab another gear and stand up.

2- Your training should match your goals. Getting drop on the short steep dirt climbs in the saddle when you need 350 watts for 1 minute? Don't train at 150 watts for 3 hours on flat ground.

3- The body only gets stronger when it adapts to stress. If you train hard then don't recover well, back off. Work as diligently on your recovery skills as you do on pushing yourself in training. Old saying by a famous cycling coach.

Never stand when you can sit
Never sit when you can lay down

Best rest is sleep or at least lounge with feet a little elevated. Lots of water 24/7.

Easiest way to get fast on a bike is to lose weight. A grand tour champion that's 5-10" might weigh 155lbs and be 2.5% body fat. That means cutting out empty calories, fewer beers and basically being OK with being mildly hungry more often.

THIS is why I never wanted to race. I love biking so much, but you really have to be dedicated to compete at all. I always push myself when I ride, and I try to ride often - and that alone is enough to constantly improve and get more fit. However if you want to compete the advice above is the only way.

Also: high altitude training.

Yesterday, I raced for a total of 115 minutes and had a 30 min warmup. Thats 145 minutes and my Garmin said 70 miles.

Racing is fun, nothing else like it.

This frame is too big for me, but I'm tempted to buy it just to strip the parts and sell the frame on eBay.

Schwinn Peloton road bike.

To much roadhomo in this thread. Need more man bikes.

This bike kicks Hustlers ass up and down the trail every weekend.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1369948304

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1369948304

Jeff has retard strength.

That's not an awful bike for $400.

853 and STI Ultegra. If it were a 55cm frame I'd make an offer immediately. I just don't know if I want to bother stripping the parts off.

Jeff, really digging that hardtail! Single ring up front too. A bit too long of a stem for the kind of riding I like to do, but for XC and climbing i'm sure it tracks great.

I'm riding it the way it came other then the fork. Switched that out when I relized I was having to slow down way to much on the bumpy stuff. Got a hell of a deal on a recon gold to. Need some big side nobs up front, that is my next buy.

Sir hustler is just jelly of my ride skills with only 1.75 legs. He is buying clips to try and keep up. I'm sticking to flat peddles till I can find a Dr that can make me a brace that works with clips.

You also did the BMX thing for years and I've been out on the MTB roughly 10x in my life at this point.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1369969543

This is for sale locally, it's my size, and I have enough to cover it from my turbo sale:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1369970289
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1369970289
I am not buying it.

Emilio, any chance we will see Quarq power meters for sale at 949 Racing? :giggle:

I'd buy a 949 jersey...and a power meter. Can you get a power meter for a 105 crank or must it be Dura-Ace or SRAM?

Speaking of Surly...

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1370013396

I would ride that bike.

That looks like a sugar sand special.

Hustler, usually you swap out the whole crank and BB with a SRAM one.

I just sold my beloved trek T1 track bike today. need more cash for miata mods....