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Old 09-04-2008, 02:57 AM   #1
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Default Im kind of in a jam guys, some advice please..

So after a hard struggle to figure out why my car was smoking. I finally got around to doing a leakdown test...

35% loss in number 1, which was the ring, we could hear air passing into the crankcase.

38% loss in #3, could hear it leaking through the tailpipe. So something in the head. Possibly valve guides or seals?

8% loss in 2 & 4

I picked up a long nose motor since mine is a shortnose for 50 bucks this past weekend. It most likely has bad rings in it. Sooo i figured what better way to do this. I can rebuild this long nose motor, get it all ready and just swap motors in a weekend to prevent downtime.

BUT what i cant decide upon is whats going inside the motor, all oem parts VS a mild build with some arp hardware and a bit of headwork.

Ideally ide like to track the car during the summer months and daily drive it to school/work ect. The idea of throwing an oil cooler/coolant re route along with all the bells and whistles inside the motor to keep it at a reliable 230-240whp 1.6l motor. Beat on it everyday and not really worrie about anything.

What should i do guys?

Sorry for the long rant/post.
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Old 09-04-2008, 10:50 AM   #2
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IMO don't buy the ARP hardware. Your head gasket is like a fuse. It blows is something dangerous happens to prevent further damage. That something dangerous would be knock. It's easier, faster, and cheaper to replace a blown headgasket than to replace a cracked piston that destroyed one cylinder. Besides, the stock headbolts are fine at high power levels anyway.

I'm all for doing your own headwork. Makes a big difference everywhere and helps spool. All for the cost of some bits and your time. But I will say get a book on porting so you know what you are doing and what you should aim to accomplish.

I would also do the reroute for sure. And perhaps add a 94+ factory oil cooler. Then rebuild to factory specs on the motor and boost away. Maybe add some lower compression pistons. If I ever rebuild it would be with 8:1 ish. comp. pistons.

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Old 09-04-2008, 10:58 AM   #3
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Pat, do you have any recommendations on books about porting?
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Old 09-04-2008, 11:04 AM   #4
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One I like is called something like "How to build, modify, and power tune cylinder heads". Search that and it should come up on Amazon. It's a great book.
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Old 09-04-2008, 11:09 AM   #5
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Sweet!, thanks Pat.
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Old 09-04-2008, 11:15 AM   #6
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Old 09-04-2008, 11:29 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patsmx5 View Post
One I like is called something like "How to build, modify, and power tune cylinder heads". Search that and it should come up on Amazon. It's a great book.
What a coincidence, I just ordered that book from Amazon yesterday. I also ordered "How to Blueprint & Build A 4-Cylinder Short Block for High-Performance".
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Old 09-04-2008, 01:49 PM   #8
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Sounds to me like you should do a somewhat mild build like BenR's.
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Old 09-04-2008, 02:57 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thesnowboarder View Post
38% loss in #3, could hear it leaking through the tailpipe. So something in the head. Possibly valve guides or seals?
neither... it has to be the valve or the seat. it could be as minor as carbon build up on the valve from running way too rich. Try sea-foaming it and see if that helps.
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Old 09-04-2008, 04:53 PM   #10
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neither... it has to be the valve or the seat. it could be as minor as carbon build up on the valve from running way too rich. Try sea-foaming it and see if that helps.
Does the water method work as well as Seafoam on the valves?
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Old 09-05-2008, 05:38 AM   #11
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neither... it has to be the valve or the seat. it could be as minor as carbon build up on the valve from running way too rich. Try sea-foaming it and see if that helps.
I understand it could be that simple, but i have a bad ring as well.

What are your guy's thoughts about P&P DIY style?
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