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Old 06-07-2012, 12:33 PM   #1
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Default The making of Torque Plates

Well right now I do not have the cash to just order some toque plates.... 2 of them I need quick so I can move on with some engine builds.

If you ever priced out one you know they are between $300-$500 each

So being the redneck that I am, and a cheap wad to boot, I decided I would fab up my own.

I called in a favor with a bud who has acess to a CNC plasma cutter and had him cut the bores in some 1.5 inche thick steel.

The making of Torque Plates-dscf6520.jpg

He has cut out 4 of the 5 plates I wanted to get made.

1 is for a Mazda BP 1.8l

2 is, yes you guessed it a Mitsu 4G63

3 is a SBC

4 is a SBF

The 5th one is a Ford 2.3, told him if I get that in the next month I will be happy.


I have my clean up guy "Fish" grinding off the slag from the plasma cutter

The making of Torque Plates-dscf6522.jpg

After this is done, I will set them up in the drill press and drill the head bolt holes then surface the mating side flat.

I will end up I figure about 3-4 hours of labor into each plate. And save well over $1000.


7 June 2012 I am waiting on my Carbide inserts to show up so I can surface the face of each plate.

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Old 06-07-2012, 12:36 PM   #2
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Bauce
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Old 06-08-2012, 03:06 AM   #3
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What does a torque plate do exactly? Help prevent distortion while the bores are being machines or something?
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Old 06-08-2012, 04:41 AM   #4
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I have always wondered why you wouldn't just bore 4 holes in a cylinder head instead of ordering up a piece of steel.
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Old 06-08-2012, 11:10 AM   #5
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Bikersam... you are close... It causes the distortion as if the head was installed, so when the cylinders are machined, they come closer to being round and straight when the engine is built

Savington.... It is a thought, but with the added height of a 5-6 bolted to the block, it would not fit in some boring stands. Plus it would take alot more machining thu all the cam webbing, water jackets ect...
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Old 06-12-2012, 07:25 PM   #6
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Default Update

I got in my carbode inserts so now I can surface the plates!!

First remove the insrt holder and remove the PCD insert
The making of Torque Plates-img_0750.jpg
Next install the carbide insert
The making of Torque Plates-img_0751.jpg
Tool holder in the cutter head
The making of Torque Plates-img_0755.jpg

The hold down bolts are too tall, so I have to cut them down first, .015 a pass
The making of Torque Plates-img_0756.jpg

But not now, they are about level with the plate
The making of Torque Plates-img_0757.jpg

About to touch off and make the first pass
The making of Torque Plates-img_0758.jpg

some pretty sparks as it cuts....
The making of Torque Plates-img_0765.jpg

the surface is starting to come in.
The making of Torque Plates-img_0759.jpg

Good flat surface, now to flip it over and surface the other side.
The making of Torque Plates-img_0762.jpg
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Old 06-12-2012, 08:06 PM   #7
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pics look good. I think some of the blurry ones.... you may be outside of the "macro" range and normal mode would be better, but I can't be sure.
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Old 06-12-2012, 09:04 PM   #8
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I figured you could just take a bad head, drill out the chambers, then maybee bandsaw it in half lengthwise like a filet... Too redneck?
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Old 02-28-2013, 04:32 PM   #9
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Hey, bringing this back up. How did you figure out how thick each plate needed to be and what to torque the studs to so that you'd end up with a plate about the same stiffness of the cylinder head?

I'm assuming the math/computer work involved is why they cost $300-$500, for a flat plate of steel with some holes drilled in it.
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