My TSI is awesome!!!!!!!
 

http://photos.yahoo.com/em8449

My new car is unbelievable, its so much faster then my miata was. I loved my miata but wow this car is so much better. It only has 72k and I got it for 4500. It was inspected by a mechaniic before i bought it and its good to go also the title is perfect and clean I love it already. Does this mean I have to find a talon forum :(

no but it does mean that you cna scout the competition on this one could be fun. To see what a sorted 180-200 whp miata will do to your tsi but it is a nice car i would buy one if i had room enough i already have to many vehicles

well yeah but what would 500 dollars do for my tsi think of that, i have 1000 dollars to do what i want any ideas?

The car runs like a 15 right? Its not to hard to have a miata down that low at all. Im at 6 PSI and mid to low 14. Going to 12PSI next week. Hope to be in the mid to low 13's(if i can keep traction). With emanage Im thinking HIGH 12's. Nice car I was looking at one befor the miata!

ya i like it not saying anything bad about the miata its just faster stock and theres not the road noise and rides smoother, Miatas have tons of potential but My talon does to for less money. I think it runs mid to high 14's actually 0-60 in like 6.4-6.7

I know your not talking down on miatas and im not talking down on your car at all im just saying. What year?
0-60 1/4
1990 Eagle Talon TSi AWD 6.8 15.1
1992 Eagle Talon TSi AWD 6.7 15.2
1994 Eagle Talon TSi AWD 6.6 14.6
1995 Eagle Talon TSi 6.4 15.1
1997 Eagle Talon ESi 8.3 16.4

96 you dont have it on there

ya im thinking that quarter mile time is that slow becasue there car is extremely fast through 3rd gear up to around 90 im not sure yet havent drove it much, but 4th gear seems like it slows a little

with an Na miata 89-96 you the start price would have been the same i recommend a 16g upgrade and mbc and you should be able to hit some serius hp. i know this girl i use dot work with who had a tsi awd she said she ran a 12.2 with it ( wiht just a bigger turbo) at a track over in richmond they can be quick and are a nice car. good luck

thank you, still wish I had a miata on the side though I will get one again someday damn they can turn. So she just bolted on a 16g turbo with no upgrades?

m boost controller? whats the m stand for?

manual boost controller

until next week when the thread is
"FUCK! My TSI is broken again!"

I sort of like the doggie slippers:gay:

http://www.stealth316.com/2-turboguide.htm
http://www.dsmparts.com/customer/pro...?productid=600
you have some reading to do :)

HAHAHHA AHH why do you think i got the miata.. LOL good luck with the car. ahhh Thats fucked up but true.

is it awd ,i have a 95 tsi fwd.its definately faster stock.

YAY AWD, More shit to break. I would just be scared to drive it hard at all because they are notorious for breaking like every other week.

Isn't ever other one of my posts "shit it broke it again"?

LOL yeah but like I said the TSI are notorious for breaking.

I've had 3 dsm's. All eclipses though, 91,93,97. In my opinion the first generation 90-94 is a better car, just more solid. They're just like any other car if you take care of them they won't let you down, none of mine ever broke. the 97 had some annoying things happen though but my 91 GSX that had close to 400hp never broke anything except the original turbo and clutch.

I would say the stock greddy kit on a miata puts it close to the 2g dsm in speed.

the doggie slipper eww, he took all his crap out of the car those were his pictures.

time will tell about the talon but it seems like a more sturdy and trustworthy then my miata was truthfully i was kinda scared to drive the miata because it felt like i was trapped in a tin can, then again Im 6'3 200 pounds kinda big for a miata.

i know people are amazed that i do it at 5' 10 225 lbs the 10-12% bodyfat helps though. it is all in what you like i like to feel at one with the car it gives me a feeling of more control plus it is nice not needing a jack or tow truck to move the car.:m-freak:

DSMs are notorious for being owned by (you know who).
The first thing a new owner does is try to double the stock horsepower.

The funniest thing I ever heard was that there are only so many dsms running at a time. When one gets fixed, somewhere else, another breaks.

The Sh**ty thing about them is everything is twice as heavy as it needs to be.

For Miata-99, on a stock car, the best mod is a MBC. Do your research on the safe number. Some say exhaust first. Fine, but then you'll have everyone who thinks they have a fast car messing with you on the street. Everyone loves to challenge DSMs (see first line).

If you want to build your car "right," DSMlink is your first purchase. Just save the money and do it. http://www.dsmlink.com

Have fun.

it depends on how you drive it and how safe you are about it, I never plan on racing it maybe see what it can do through one gear here and there but thats it the first thing im doing is the apexi S-AFC mbc and a 255 fuel pump, clutch, and intake. That will all come to 800 inluding labor. I know im at a miata forum and I shouldnt say this but i like my tsi so much better then my miata, and if you bought a 4500 dollar tsi and then a 4500 dollar miata you could put say 1k into it and the miata would be toast after first gear.

I dont think so. I got my miata from a friend for 4300 with the greddy setup. Now i have put in about $300 and I think I would own your tsi. For sure after next week when im at 12PSI. So for 4600 I have a LOW 13 second car (at 12psi)

Try to find a 10-12 Psi Miata around you with someone who can drive and race them. Let us know how that works. I raced a tallon form like a 35 roll in 2ed and pulled him by about 3 cars befor I hit 70. Not saying your car is slow or mine is fast, just saying. As far as stock for stock, yes the tsi is faster.

no need to argue, im not going to anymore I like both cars just giving my opinion what i really want to do is race this dumbass I know who has a s-13 with a sr20det i looked they only pump out 205 hp at the crank and he says he has 340whp man i want to race him, it would be close.

12psi on a 1.6 will net you a 12second pass??? I was hoping to hit a high 13 with my car, maybe I'm underestimating it.

too much slow car talk in here :o
wake me when we're talking 12's.

I think at 12 PSI with an emanage and a good tune you will be at low 13's. Oh and good tires.

probably not.

what do yoyu think it will be?

Esp with a tdo4 and thre skinny ass tire you guys run step up to say a 16g and some 225's and you will be closer.
Miata 99
Everyone acts like there sr20 is god go show him what for he would have ot do quite abit of work for 350 whp i am not saying it is not possible but i doubt it ther is a guys at work who thinks along the same lines i just sit back and wait for him to do something stupid like try to run on me go have some fun. remember turbo kit 1-2000 dollars the look on the v8 drivers face as he falls behind priceless:bigtu:

Td04 at 12 psi aprox 220-230 whp maybe 13.7 if you have the rubber.

16g at 8 psi 200+ dynojet whp it is all in the snail, WI helps though

we will see sometime soon i want to take my car to the track and see.

off the line youll win but those 240 come by quick.good luck with youre car the onlything i wish is i would have bought awd.:sadwavey:

well, with 550 crank HP and a 3800lb car with MUCH bigger tires I'd be lucky to crack 12's at this altitude....

The track for the first time. Good luck just remember if you can relax and concentrate you will be faster the nerves can get you and cost alot of time. i need to put a new dif in mine before i track it.

GTO? :gay:

that is why i am glad i dont live at any altitude worth mentioning.

You might notice some degradation of website performance. :gay:

chill out and go drive your tri power:D

I see slow cars, all around me. :fawk:

let me go get my 67 C-10 With the built small block, muncie, 373's and wide sticky rear tires it will give you some fun but i'll need ot fill the tank alot more often (8mpg sucks) but 0-110 in less than 12 seconds is worth it:robert:

Heres A list of parts I will be ordering next week for my tsi.
1) Apexi S-AFC NEO fuel Controller
2) AutoMeter Phantom boost gauge
3) Hallman Es MBC
4) Walbro 255 fuel Pump
5) F1 stage 3 clutch
6) DSM EVO III o2 Housing(if i sell my miata clutch)

Soon To Come parts
1) DSM GT 16g Turboported + 34mm flapper
2) 2g install kit
3) Greddy Typer RS BOV kit

With those parts next week what would you recommend my psi be turned up to being safe?

hell yeah looks good. who got the car someone local i assume.

what car the 240? if thats who ya hes local use to be a friend till he turned gay and joined a want to be drift 240 group that all are just stupid.

no your wrecked 99

OK, we will just go down the list to make it easier. It's your car and I respect that fact. These are just some things I've learned. Maybe they'll help. It's just advice. If you want to further discuss, please post back you specific question and I'll try to help.

1. SAFC. This will limit your ability to make power in the long run. In the short run, you can control like ~ 660's or so, but this will give you abnormally high timing. More timing = less boost = slower.

Also, a SAFC will have the part throttle problems that other (previously mentioned) tuning devices won't ever have. (See above recommendation :) ) If you ever want to flow more fuel than (about) 650s and you will, I cannot recommend the SAFC. Just to be clear, 550's are the largest injectors recommended with a SAFC controlling them, although 660 is possible.

2. Boost gauge. Good. Get it.

3. Hallman MBC. Good. Get it.

4.Walbro 255. A 255 will overrun your stock FPR. Your performance and mileage will suffer. Stock DSM A/F is quite rich. The 255 will make it worse. A 190 will flow sufficiently for that 16G, (more on that later) stock FPR is sufficient. If you want a 255, get a aftermarket FPR. (rec. Aeromotive).

5. Clutch I don't know. I will say that any clutch will work if you let it cool down between passes. Conversly, your new badass clutch will die a horrible death if you try hard enough.

6. EVO3 O2. No. The o2 is the last restriction in the exhaust. Do you have 3" from the o2 back? Really, o2 is so far down the list on restrictions on a stock car, it's no way worth it.

Also, maybe this should have been first, but it wont fit. The EVO o2 is designed to fit the EVO3 downpipe, which is at a different angle than yours. If you want the evo3 o2, then you need the "RRE" custom made downpipe, or fab skills.

Soon to come:

1.16G GT + 34 flapper. Oh man, sorry but... The GT is a ripoff. Literally and figuratively. They take the Mitsu turbo and copy it. Mitsu makes a good turbo. Don't save 50 bucks to get the copied one. Please don't :bigtu:

Next, the 34 flapper (they probably threw this in as a "free" mod?) The EVO 16G has a reputation for boost creep on 3" turboback cars. It's not BS. The solution used to be port the flapper to 34, well it dosen't work that well, if at all. What it does do, however, is permently limit the maximum amount of boost the turbo will ever be able to run. Doesn't sound good does it?

Just FYI, the EVO 16G (on a turbo back car) likes to run about 18-20 psi.

2. Install kit. Depends. The kit is overpriced, although there won't be any install snags.

3. Greddy RS. I don't know. As long as it recirculates any bov with the exception of the stock one will work fine.

Lastly, the level of psi you can safely run depends on quite a few things such as: Your elevation. Some say "I run 18psi, I'm FINE!" well thats nice, but in Denver, CO. one can run a bit more boost than in Orange, CA.

There are so many variables, but i've already written a novel. If you want the safe number, buy a wideband. The LC or LM-1. There is no other way to tell. If you want the standard, blanket answer, it's 15 psi general consensus.

The S-afc is suppose to have maps on it already that re map it so that wouldnt be good even if i was just staying with the stock 450's for good? would you get it? what would you get in its place? I understand the fuel pump thing but if i stuck with the 450cc's would you still only recommend the 190? I think ill stick with that clutch unless i have extra money now. A no go on the evo o2 housing. What turbo would you recomend thenn? And what psi can I run off the parts i will get next week? just give me a standard.

I want to know what you think I should do before I throw on a bigger turbo, not including the clutch, mbc, boost gauge. And what turbo i should get

Seriously. Check that sight out. Just read the whole thing. It's the foundation of your mods, it's worth every penny.
When you start with a tuning and logging device, your efficiency will be maximized. Your car will always be "fast for the mods." You'll KNOW what's happening under the hood.

Of course the SAFC will "work," just not as well. The main benefit of a piggyback controller is running larger injectors.
Without a FPR, get the 190. It'll flow plenty for the 450s.

Misunderstanding? Let me clarify. A Evo3 16G will bolt up to your stock manifold and o2 housing. You don't need (and can't use) an Evo3 o2 housing.

For a street/track turbo I love the Evo3 16G. Having said that, the turbo shines at higher boost, 20+ psi. If you want to stay around 15 psi, the Evo3 16G is the wrong choice because it's inefficient at that level. A small 16G would be much better. My recommendation is just to hold off on the turbo until you need it. Same with the clutch.

Aside from the: Boost gauge, MBC, and BOV, I'd buy DSMlink and a cheap laptop (serial port). Log-on to the DSMlink forums. Your new helpful tuning advice source. Awesome source.

Install it, do a couple test pulls, see what your car is doing. There is a lot of power hidden in a stock tune.

Install MBC and start raising the boost. From 11 to 15 psi is a kick-ass feeling. It'll be the last time you will get so much out of a simple, cheap mod. Enjoy it, it'll put a smile on your face for sure.

Next mods are your choice. Best is 3" exhaust, 3" downpipe. That clears a major restriction. Next up, all that crappy I/C piping, and the SMIC that can't flow worth a damn. I'm assuming you have an intake?

It's an endless cycle.

well woulgf it be safe to run 20+ psi with that turbo?

No, it wouldnt.

This just sounds like your not doing your homework. I would listen to UofACATS as he seems to be knowledgable in the world of DSMs also.

Let me just save you the effort on alot of things. It sounds like your wasting alot of money. For the horsepower numbers you are trying to push, and all the crap your buying (16g, 2g installkit, which is a ripoff/joke, and o2 housing) you can simply buy a 50 trim kit (or maybe a FP turbo) and tubular manifold. If you want real numbers (as it seems you do since you want to take on cars with 350+ hp) you have to buy real parts. That also will allow you to run the GM MAF setup with the 3" intake. I dont know what mods the car already has, but unless you have a 3" exhaust (see thermal) then you probably are wasting your time. Again dsmtuners .com has staged upgrade paths that should help you. Finally, please do not forget to re-wire the fuel pump. I attached a pic of my 98

Things to pray for prevention of in your nightly prayers are: Transmission, Transfer Case, Differential, and of course, crankwalk.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/gallery/fil...smallfront.jpg

the guy doesnt have 340whp is what i was saying, theres a t-25 in that motor he cant even get close tothat, especialy with very few mods he told me he had.

I have talked to a guy that already built up a talon this is around what he did what i have down and he said the exhaust was a waste of time, they are ig enough.