that sucks. If its not the only car, then put that bitch on a shark and call it a track car.

 

this is why i am so afraid of driving my miata on the street. I can't behave.

 

Suck cause I wasn't fooling around. I slowed down for a sharp corner and when i gave it gas out of it, the rear end was still off camber it and swung out, when i over corrected I turned it around and it slid across a concrete bridge. then slid across the guardrail and then into the pole. I was literally tell Brad how so many ******* nearly killed me on that corner going too fast, then wham.

my freaking neck is killing me right now.

I dunno what I'll do about it now, but I have no funds to do anything at the moment, so It's going back into hibernation.

 

sorry to hear this.

 

There are A LOT of factors involved here. It would be difficult to determine.
If it were my car, and we took a very simplistic look at it, I would absolutely come out better if the ins co totaled my car, as I'd get a ~$7500 check (I forget the exact value it's insured to). I'd then buy the salvage rights to the car, for probably $1500. So I'd have the carcass and $6000. My auto insurance is ~$100/mo. $6000 over 5 years is $1200 per year or $100 per month. So if my insurance rate doubled over 5 years, I gave myself a 5 year interest free loan. Of course my rate increase wouldn't be that severe, and the increase would diminish with time.

I'd also buy another car, like the $3500 95M I linked to earlier, and enjoy a new build. Swap over the good parts that interchange, sell the ones that don't, and add that money to the $2500 left over insurance money for parts and/or rainy day savings. My .00002

 

if they'd give me 7500 for it with 1500 for salvage rights I'd take it. I just dunno how much I'd get from them.

 

I went through hoops and contortions for over a year trying to find a place that would insure my car for what it was worth to replace - i.e. the price of all the parts new plus the price of labor. I figured, someone who buys a $50,000 car, insures that car for 50k, and gets that if he wrecks. If you buy a 10k car, put 40k into it, and you wreck it, you get 10k. Totally ridiculous.

There's "classic car" insurers, which will insure stuff as new as 1989 or something. And there's one just for porsches. These places you get the car evalutated and then you insure it for any (justifiable) amount you want. And they don't "depreciate".

Anyway, after talking to legal departments, etc, at various insurers, I ended up using my folk's agent. I don't like the company (at all), but the lady herself is great - she's helped my folks fudge things in the past - not ripping off the company, but bending the rules to make them reasonable. I told her my situation, and she said if everything was documented, she'd make sure things were handled right if it came down to it. So, now I overpay for "basic" coverage, but hopefully things will work out if it goes there.



Oh, and I've crashed three times, once I already talked about, twice in fieros - one of those someone changed lanes into me on the freeway. But the only "real" problem was just like you were saying - bad conditions, and I was driving more careful than normal because of it - but I think that was out of my groove, and I lost the back end cause I was trying to be careful. Downshifted an extra gear to go "extra slow".

So how you driving around in the meantime? Staying home and playing a lot of PONG?

 

Abe, you need to get agreed upon value coverage or add a rider to your existing coverage. I would NOT just "hope for the best" if there was a loss.

 

not to crash on your parade and all but kbb is saying 5K suggested retail value and only 3,900 for private party value. Defiently keep us up to date with any info on the situation!!!!!

 

Even if I could get $4K (only 83K), with 3K in my pocket and the car I'd take it buy another and transfer all my parts.

 

Seems like that's definitely the way to go. You ought to be able to score a solid, high-mileage car for <$3,000 and transplant the mechanicals, top, interior, etc.

 

Dude, sorry to see you wrecked your car. I'd say don't go through insurance if at all possible, it'll cost you more in the end. I'm sure you can find a replacement shell cheap. Newsauce, time to put those craigslist skillz to work.

If i see anything I'll PM ya. 1.6 only or would you like to step up to a 94?

 

wow im really sorry.... ive been there a few times with 240sx's... my last accident being exactly 1 year ago to the day. I wish the best of luck to you... when a girl hit my car her insurance was very willing to give "over bluebook" and let me keep teh car due to its "value" with all the parts. Get a parts list together and show them other cars with similar mods selling for certian amounts...it should help prove the value of the car. No matter what... keep it!

 

That sucks man. At least your not hurt. That was a big pole and a small car. I don't know what they will give you for your car. But I bet you can buy the car back for $800 or less. They sell salvage cars cheap at auction. And if you want to keep your car the ins company doesn't wanna mess with it. My brother always buys his back dirt cheap and sells them to a friend in need. Good luck!

 

You can add my $50 if you open one.

 

Not to hijack this thread, but... I sure had a hard time finding that when I was looking. I mean, I just couldn't find it. Any suggestions? All the "agreed value" policies were complete hedges - I forget the legal terms, but I knew them at the time. They all basically said "we pay you whatever we want to, and we don't tell you what that is until after an accident". So, they bill you $35,000 rates, and aren't obligated to pay you anything beyond low blue book value on the car.

 

ouch, sorry to see that, glad everyone's ok.

this list just popped up on the Chesapeake Roadsters club site. Not sure which car is on what list, but apparently it's a buyers market for these things.

I hope it's not the case, but I learned the ins and outs of the Miata suspension while swapping it off a NB that'd received similar damage from an ARMCO barrier at VIR (actually, about 18" to the left, but similar depth). I know some Spec racer guys who might help if you need to get rid of OEM parts.

A few Miatas for sale or trade on Craigs list
1989 Mazda Miata no title Lorton
1990 Mazda Miata - Mint, Only 44k miles, Waldorf
1991 Mazda Miata 113K Woodbridge
1994 MAZDA MIATA MANASSAS, VA
1995 Mazda Miata MX-5 - 81,785 miles Alexandria, VA
2000 Mazda Miata 33,400 miles, DC

 

that really sucks. i'm glad you guys are alright.

 

scott you defiently need to buy another miata and swap everything over. I would totally be down for helping out in a weekend to swap everything. LMK.

 

im playing TAPS for your car....sorry to see her like that....