Leafy

iTrader: (1)

To answer the next question, no you cant do lean cruise like that. Any values over lambda 1 in the closed loop table bumps you out of closed loop. You can do lean cruise by ******* with the o2 sensor scaling and then using one of the comp tables to add fuel back in at idle and low acceleration.


And onto the IC. Why not another stock one with 2 ratchet straps around it to keep the end tanks from popping off?

05pearl

iTrader: (4)

^ I don't understand how he can have all 0's and an IAM less than 1.0 on a reset ECU.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Reset ecu sets the IAM to 0.5, unless in the tune you tell it to set the IAM to 1 on resets like I do.

05pearl

iTrader: (4)

My maps always show 1.0 on a reset. But, then again, I never even looked at a LV until after my car was opensource tuned. So, stock ECU maps have 0.5 on resets - wow, learn something new every day. Still, 1.0 makes more sense to me - kind of like starting at 100% ok and going down from there, lol.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

Nope, its actually way smarter to start at .5 and let the car advance once it determines everything is ok. Best way to eliminate knock is by increasing in steps rather then reacting and pulling the multiplier.
Most people (myself included) will set it to 1 when tuning because its so much easier and faster when tuning and because you can let off right away should you encounter knock. After I'm done with a map I usually set it back to .5 on reset to be safe. Just my .02

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Yeah 0.5 would be what I'd set a tune to that I was putting on not my car. Whats the first thing anyone does that doesn't know any better do when they get a CEL? reset the ecu.

05pearl

iTrader: (4)

Yes, now I understand. 0.5 shouldn't let it knock in the first place vs. setting 1.0 which makes the assumption the tune is good.

skidude

iTrader: (3)

So, I replaced the intercooler, reset the ECU, and the codes came back the next day. So this weekend I swapped the Cyl 1 and 3 fuel injectors with the cyl 2 and 4 injectors to see if the codes moved from 2&4 to 1&3. The ECU reset when I had the battery unhooked, but it has been 3 days and a couple hundred miles and there is no code and this is what my learning view looks like. I'm not sure what that AF table is, but the knock correction looks fine. I'm going to have the fuel injectors cleaned over the summer regardless of whether the codes come back or not, since there was clearly SOME issue caused by the fuel injectors. I am not sure the car runs quite right still, but it is a lot better than it was last week. More power, less stumbling at idle, and overall just feels better. So weird.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

side feeds suck
definitely have them cleaned/flow tested

TurboTim

iTrader: (9)

Ahh so you already got an intercooler eh? I have the racerX/itsme FMIC on my '05 outback, I'd sell it for the right price. If you want an FMIC.

skidude

iTrader: (3)

I went with a used stock top mount for now. I am going to reinforce it as soon as I have the time. I really don't have much use for a frontmount on that car as it will never see anything beyond stage 1. The miata gets all my modding attention.