To Tom
 

https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/at...5&d=1176591985

Love Scott

Is that a template or a cover?

You ROCK! :pitlab:

Anyway, here's the pic for you!

Are you cutting the duct in all the way to the hood side edge of the lid?

I'd be concerned about a small strip of lid material remaining between the wide end of the duct and the hood breaking away.

whoa, I have green brake fluid too. lol

He is missing an AFM now.

And I guess making another one?

I'm making Tom a NACA duct like mine since he was helpful in sourcing some wheels for me. The pic is the template layed out before cutting. 8/10 of the cuts are made, then I gotta fibergalss it together and it's pretty much done.

(btw, buy touch-up paint :gay:)

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the AFM is gone cause no need it anymore.

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I figured that was the place to source the FP GND, I must have misinterpted the post I read....I still think there is a GND in the AFM harness, I'm going to try to ground it and see what happens before I rewire it there.

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Ben, that place is sturdy, been like that on mine for a while, and I constantly put weight on it cranking on the turbo...the duct itself does a good job keep the structural integrity in place.

What poor BRG had to die to make your NACA duct??? :vash: couldn't have used one of the thousands of faded-red miatae for it eh?:sadwavey:

lol, j/k :bigtu:

fuck BRGs

do those actually get enough air through that little hole to make a difference?

yes, very much so.

I'm talking cool to the touch piping (80*) vs. hot-ass pipes (140-160*)

based on the surface temps I've taken of the pipe that used to sit directly behind it. Even the filter could burn my hand without it.

I'm consierding buying the BEGi intake and coldair box...I'm more conserned about lowering the intake temp than the bay.

Tom, looking here: http://www.madracki.com/miata/images/wiring/93diag.pdf

the wire I tapped is the ground...so it should work(Figure 2. Section C on the right)

also, those ABS gears...well they turned out to be non-abs....so, i got smart and pulled the entire assembly that goes into the hub and swapped them...they are identical, so now my 1.8 axles have the abs gears ;)

on th afm the two wires on the right most side can be jumpered to keep the fuel pump on with the ingnition switch i am gonna do that on a toggle with mine,

yeah, it was my understanding that the AFM grounded the FP to tuen it on...looks like that way in the wiring diagram. Same thing as doing GND and F/P on the Diag. Box....although I don't see the need for a toggle switch, as the MS should control the ground circuit.

Scott, I would recommend jumping FP and GND from the underside of the diag connector (you can get into the underside). I would run the jumper through an inertia switch though.

So FP----->Inertia Switch------>GND

The purpose of mazda putting the afm in the fuel pump circuit was to act as a safety switch. When the flapper door completely closes due to no airflow, it opens the fuel pump circuit.

That way in case you get in an accident, the intertia switch will open the fuel pump circuit and shut it off. Otherwise, if you were unable to shut off the ignition, the pump would continue to run. I think magna was planning to use the toggle as a safety switch, but if you're unable to turn the key to off, then you're also going to be unable to flip a toggle. Though the idea of a toggle in a conceled area could definitely be used as a theft deterrent kill switch.

It was to my understanding that just tapping into the wire to the MS would be enough, I don't want to just ground it out.

If you run it off the MS, you should still install an inertia switch between the MS and FP. Same concept: if you wreck, the intertia switch will cut the FP circuit.

It's solely a safety feature. You can rip the switch out of a junker at the pick n pull.

if i crash, i hope it goes up in flames....

lol.

Does your insurance cover you at the track?

Mine doesn't.