Toys! Glorious toys! SAD FACE :(
 

Picked up a few goodies this week. now to get off my lazy ass and do something about it...

http://www.boostedmiata.com/random/t...eels_seats.JPG

http://www.boostedmiata.com/random/t...%20%281%29.JPG

http://www.boostedmiata.com/random/t...%20%282%29.JPG

http://www.boostedmiata.com/random/t...%20%283%29.JPG


http://www.boostedmiata.com/random/t...%20%284%29.JPG


These wheels are going to be my new DD wheels, I have to swap my current tires over to them. I'm then going to mount some 215/45 RS2s on the Kosei's since they are 7.5" they should be better suited for my race tire.

I'm planing on swapping out my huge IC with this old Bell unit, it should net more better spool (i lost about 500rpm when I went to the bigger core) and since the car is 90% used to drive my fat ass to work, it will suffice.

I hand a line on some fixed back seats, however they were going to be black/yellow and I don't fit in most seats very well. I figured these would be a good compromise to leave in year-round and still work with harnesses. The bolsters fit me perfectly and should be pretty comfortable.

I don't see how a bigger IC hurts spool. Makes no sense whatsoever. Nice wheels though. What brand are they?

Look like Rotas to me.

Nice toys!

Rota C8's. I've wanted a pair in bronze and black for the longest time now. Did you get the silver or royal bronze? Its hard to tell by the pictures.

Vash-

The core likely has a large pressure drop. I saw a significant loss of spool when I upgraded from a 11x12x3 core. I guess it's in the 3-4psi range, which is enough to make me lose about 500rpm for peak boost:

Attachment 208401

Since this IC has the old vertical runner style it should have less pressure drop with a trade off in efficiency. But it's rated at 922CFM vs. 560CFM of my current one that's twice as large.




Yeah Rota Circuit 8s in 16x7. They are Steel Gray, but they look Nickel, really cool huh!

Pressure drop would be a function of resistance, or flow. If you actually lost 3-4 PSI in the mid range, from that IC, you'd be loosing 9-10 PSI across that IC by redline. Hard to believe it's that restrictive. Also, unless you have a 350 under the hood, you're not flowing 560CFM through the IC.

It's the only change to the system between those two dynos. If the turbo has to output 18psi to achieve 14psi in the IM, then that's extra time it takes to build peak.

If anything, it'll be an easy swap and ill be able to find out as soon as I take my first log.

Curious to see your results. I can't possibly imagine the IC being that restrictive unless you filled it full of leaves or something. Guess I'll have to measure the pressure drop across my 20x12x3 core one day. Someone else on the forum here measured a 1PSI drop across an 18x12x3 core IC. Figured mine's probably close to that. If you lost spool between dyno sessions, it's probably from something else IMO. But still curious to see your results.

I'm curious as well, because my core is 18x12x3 :P

it could be my EBC table, as you can see before it spiked then dropped, so the extra help of the wastegate being held shut could have been the difference.

Are you saying that your EBC table was different between dynos? I could see that affecting spool. :)

sweet mang. now bring me that temp sensor and thinset mortar!

Finally someone here goes and does what I've been saying all along. The small probe IC is one of the secrets of my spool. Way to go man, I'm pretty sure you'll pick up a couple hundred rpm at the very least, and also better throttle response beyond your threshold rpm.

about the clt sensor....

are you going to run it that lean on the track? I targeted 11.5:1.

gtfo

I heart your seats. If you decide later down the road that you dont want the IC let me know. You cleaned that thing up pretty damn good.
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Awesome. I love those wheels and the seats, though i probably wouldn't waste my time with the intercooler. I am curious to see if it makes any kind of difference.

I demand pictures of the car with those wheels on it!

Nice to see you kept the garage clean haha.

btw, brad and scott, we never went to the Transporter 3...

yeah we didnt! We'll catch the next good movie coming out. When does TransFORMERS come out?


BTW, I ordered two grommets to add the 5th-hole for the submarine strap for the seats. Corbeau sells them and they suggest it's a very simple install if I'm handy enough. Now to pick out harnesses.

http://corbeau.com/product_images/5t...Slot-A4-XL.jpg

Gah, I miss my C8s.

Good looking seats. I've got a Momo Rookie that has keeps looking at me like I am a horrible person sitting in the corner of my room.

Nice! Those seats look nice. I think the smaller intercooler will help your spool. Pipe length is a function of piping losses. Shorter intercooler = lower losses = better spool.

+1 on pictures of car with the new wheels.

Less intercooler talk, more talk about how you're considering buying STREET tires (R-S2) for TRACK use.

NT-01 or fail.

Heh. They work if you aren't going to be hardcore about it. But, hell, I DD'd RS2s and 615s, I would want something a bit gripper for the track.

you mean the old model?



edit: my bad. they aren't a comp tire. lame.

It's not worth the cost for the for the two track weekends I might do this year. I will however run at least 5-10 autoxes.

Really though, I thought about getting r-comps, but it's all a compromise. 215/45 RS2s are $100 each. Or I could go with Rt-615s or the new Khumo XSs. What else is there?

The 245/35 TR1? at $162 a tire, I think the cost outweighs the benefit/use I'll get out of them.

no really. any help with tires would be appreciated :P


Harnesses ordered, opted for G-force 6-points with pull-up lap belts:

http://www.jegs.com/images/photos/40...471-6001BK.jpg


now i just need tires, pads (xp10/xp8) and corrado rotors and im ready for the track.....as soon as i fix my manifold and Marc ships the kit that is :P

Scot u know u wanna drop the IC altogether restricitve heatsink infront of your Rad BLeh. I like the seats though and look forward to seeing the fit they make. I like the RS2's but hell man get some hoosiers or bfg's since ur swaping in and out anyway some 225 r comps would be pretty slick and give lots of grip ud prob get 2-3 years of track time out of em alota serius auto-xrs do similiar. 150-160 bucks to kick everyones ass imo isnt to bad.

I got those, but I failed to read that they were bolt-in instead of wraparound shoulder harnesses, and since I don't have harness tabs or any desire to find a place to bolt them to the car, I got RCI 5-point pullups instead. They seemed like good quality though :bigtu:

I have no problem rubbing elbows with hoosier-shod SM2 cars on fresh NT-01s. T1Rs are crap for track, they get really greasy really fast and the car just floats around the entire time.

You won't regret the extra money spent, I guarantee it. The grip is simply unrealistic.

I should be able to remove the mounting tabs and simple wrap them around, no? That's what I did with my last harness...or are these sewn in?

http://www.jegs.com/images/photos/40...1-6001BK_4.jpg

this image suggests I should be able to unloop these and loop it around my harness bar instead.

Unfortunately they don't make a size I can use. I just don't like the idea of spending over $200 on a tire that wont get much use, I figure a street comp tire (which I've used in the past) will suffice.

looks like i could do the V710 215/40/16 @ $184.00, that's about all i can find that will fit...but still, I dunno if the cost is worth it. I'll more than likely do one HPDE this year, hopefully two and a handful of autoxes. I know r-comps are great, but I just dont think it's worth it for me.

Tire Details - Discount Tire Direct

azenis for 106 each. what's the problem here?

Everything I've read says that Azenis get greasy quickly when doing track duty.

$99 here :P


Falken AZENIS RT-615 Tires for Sale Online - Vulcan Tire Sales


I ran my 195 RT-215s on the track at 170rwhp. I was tire slightly limited, but they held up fine. I did my event in AUG and they only got greasy at the end of the day Sun, I was able to compensate with driving style.

I'll more than likely go that route.

yeah i checked vulcan after posting.

seriously the 615 is definitely more progressive at the limit of traction than the 215. and they didn't get greasy on me last time I tracked mine.

this is after maybe 300 miles plus one track day.

http://gallery.y8s.com/d/544-3/DSC00758_001.jpg

harness: latch link over camlock? $? Camlock scores more Nopi points. ;)

IIRC the Ecsta XS is said to have the same R-compound rubber as the V710s, but with a streetable tread design and at $99 -TireRack

Win.

Edit: After checking it was a reviewer that claimed it was their R-compound, not Kuhmo. But a 180 treadwear rating is a good indicator.

Pretty sure mine were sewn in, but I also got the cam-lock, maybe yours are different :dunno:

we'll see when i get them...

I was reading more about them and the 180 rating is there to pass as a SCCA street class tire, a few people have posted that the "thumbnail test" puts them just slightly harder than a v700. I think they may be a better choice than a 615, people who I've found running them like them better than their 615s and are saying the size runs wider...

one person took them to the track and said they didnt get at all greasy like his 615s and they should be on par with RE01Rs and Z1 Starspec which is nice. Being a brand new design helps too, wish Tire Rack would do a test of them soon.

You can do a test on them for me!
Tell me how they work out.

V710's aren't going to last a really long time on the track. They are a very soft compound specifically made for autocross and are somewhat prone to over heating. They don't stay fast after too many heat cycles.

I'd look into a fast cheap street tire (Azenis) or a long lasting R. I'd personally look into the RA-1. Quicker than a street tire, stays pretty consistent right to the cords and available in a lot of miata friendly sizes. Or go with used slicks.

I run 215/50/13 V710s and they are stupid sticky.

I've never tracked Azenis, but they are known for getting really greasy. Emilio doesn't like them at all; he says they act like a race tire, with really snappy breakaway characteristics, but with none of the grip.

If I had to choose a street tire to do track/autocross with, it would be a Z1 Star Spec or a Toyo R1R or the RE01R, not an RS-2, and definitely not an RT-615. I wouldn't do a v710 either; they are autocross tires and they'll get greasy on track too.

A well-driven car on a basic R-comp (NT-01, R888, RA-1) will go 4-5 seconds faster around most tracks than a street-tire car. On an autocross course, they are worth the same 4-5 seconds. The car turns in better, it brakes SO much harder, the mid-corner grip is retarded, exit grip is way better. Street tires just SUCK.

edit: jesus, not as much as r-comp selection in 16" sizes. Are you deadset on keeping all your 16" wheels? You'd save a shitpile of money by selling a set and getting some 15s for track/autox duty.

I just don't see the worth in getting r-comps or crazy expensive street comp tires at this point in time...maybe down the road I can do something different. But I don't compete and will more than likely only do two HPDEs this year (if that), not worth the investment to be slightly faster competing against no one.

I think I'm going to give these XSes a try, the few members on the sccaforum that have tried them prefer them over the falkens and they are calling them "Falken Killers."

Street tires won't be as durable as a proper R. But if you only plan on doing a couple of track days it probably won't matter too much. I've seen guys cord nearly brand new street tires at autocrosses before. The RA-1 last a long time, I bought a set used that were near 4/32nd of tread. I used those for two seasons of autocross (1 was with a co-driver) and drove about 5000km on the street. Corded them at the last autocross of that season. I honestly don't think you'll see a high performance street tire take that kind of abuse and last nearly as long. A street tire for track/autocross is false economy.

If it were me, I'd buy a set of 14" RA-1 and put them on some stock wheels. In the end it'll be cheaper than using a single set of street tires for both purposes.

My 215s lasted years; I had only used them for autoxing and three trackdays. I bought them in 2004 and finally ditched them last year :P

I sold my stock wheels so I can fit over my 11" rotor in the front.

The 215's lasted me a long time too. I sold them when I was done with them, last I heard they were hard like hockey pucks but still had significant treat left.

yeah i still have tread on mine, but they grip worth shit now so I stopped using them.


If it makes you all feel better I got a line on a set of new xp10/xp8s for a good price.

[EDIT] I'm a tard

And if those are the ones I had, I raped that set for a another few thousand miles, they are great.

What all are you having to do to run the rado setup?

the kit from M-Tuned. Get in on it by Sunday....


https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t28696-7/#post367153

Aw.


Today was full of so much fail it hurt.


I had to pull my IM because a snapped stud on the head prevented it from sealing. When I started to pull it out I got 2-3 rotations on it before it snapped into the head. Spent a better part of the day trying to get it out. So I have to pull the head and to just get the thing running again, I'll be putting my spare head on. I'll hold onto the ported one, maybe slowly build it. :td:


Seats also don't fit. When I test fit them they seemed like they'd be good, but after spending a great deal of effort mounting them to the stock sliders, they are just a touch too large; too wide, too tall. Even if I bolt them to the floor, they just aren't going to be that great. Going to sell them and get something else.

Positve note: The harnesses came in today and they are nice and will wrap around my harness bar.

Aww, i know the disappointing feeling too...

Just got my oil lines from tunertoys today, was so ready to go put the turbo on this weekend...they sent me the wrong fucking oil drain flange.

Oh well...

Everything is always 2 steps forward and 3 steps back eh. :vash:

Having JUST fixed a damaged stud in a head (read, just finished, yeah!), I can tell you it can be fixed with the head on the engine. Drill that bitch out with left hand drill bits. If you get lucky, as you get close to the ID of the threads, it spins out because there's no longer much force pushing the threads against the head. Worst case is you drill till the stud and threads are gone. Then you drill, tap, helicoil, and install new stud.

I just fixed an exhaust manifold stud that was stripped in the head and now it don't leak! OMG I'm soooooooooooooooooo Happy it's fixed!

Anyways, it can be done, I'll break it down for you if you wish. I promise you don't have to pull the head though.

I made the mistake of using an extractor bit....since it's my luck, it broke off in the stud. and since it's hardened...

Extractors never work. It's ok though, like you said, it's harder than.... Just about anything. So take a piece of anything, grind it down to a point, and shatter the extractor into crumbs and blow them out. Then you pickup with the left hand drill bits. I've done this.... Like 20 times.

Though I've personally never broken (or even used) an easy out, I've helped others remove broken extractors, Just get a center punch and shatter it to nothing.