Originally Posted by ApexOnYou
(Post 248658)
A 2.1 60' on street tires is not bad at all.
Looks like the exact same gears went on both of ours. One of those side gears went on mine, and two or three others split clean in half when the whole unit locked up. I wonder if cryo treating would help any? And for the record, I wheel hopped for the first time the run before I broke mine too, so maybe that has something to do with it. Cryo treating would help, but it's a band aid approach. The diff being weak isn't the problem. It's wheel hop that kills it. Kinda like knock on an engine. Dosn't matter what you have if you have knock, it will break your shit. If we didn't hop our rear ends would be much much better off. FWIW, I think it needs a pair of frame rails that tie to the factor rails and the rear subframe, and then brace the diff off of these. |
Originally Posted by patsmx5
(Post 248656)
Our 7" differential isn't the weak link IMO. Well, it sort of is. Wheel hop is what kills shit. Our diff winds up like a spring when you launch it. The front of the diff jumps up and nothing stops it. Look at how the RX7 diff is mounted. Ours needs to be supported just like that, with a brace between the frame rails holding the front of the diff. Stop wheel hop and the diff's would stop breaking.
I just sold a 1990 RX-7 TII with a LT-1 put 365hp to the wheels and had the worst wheel hop I have ever driven. I used poly on every point and welded the front of the diff to the mount to try and fix the hopping and nothing was fixing it. The RX-7 mount is NOT the answer. |
You guys dont think an ace hd w/6 puck going from 0 to 7k in an instant has anything to do with diff failure?
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I don't know RX7's well, but something had to be giving for it to hop. On our miata's, the front of the diff is just not supported. What do you think was giving on the RX7 for it to hop? Again I've been under an RX7 twice, so not real farmiliar with them, but I know they have a brace that holds the front of the diff. Granted, it was all connected with bushings.
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Originally Posted by thesnowboarder
(Post 248668)
You guys dont think an ace hd w/6 puck going from 0 to 7k in an instant has anything to do with diff failure?
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someone please define the term "welded diff" for my noobish self....
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Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 248684)
someone please define the term "welded diff" for my noobish self....
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Sav, get some 3.3 or 3.6 gears and have them cryo'd and shot peened, and get some diff mounts. Set your Konis to full stiff in the back, and cross yo fingas! You can track this set up and take it to the strip.
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Originally Posted by Zabac
(Post 248730)
Sav, get some 3.3 or 3.6 gears and have them cryo'd and shot peened, and get some diff mounts. Set your Konis to full stiff in the back, and cross yo fingas! You can track this set up and take it to the strip.
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R-Compounds aren't very effective for drag racing. The sidewalls are WAY too stiff and most don't have a lot of stick unless they are hot. You'd probably be better off with streets running low PSI.
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Installing a larger diff. won't solve wheelhop, and that needs to be eradicated.
You all need to look at some of the V8-swap Miata guys and what they've done to reduce/eliminate wheelhop. A few of them have fabricated longitudinal links that connect the lower rear A-arms to the frame rails, and that seems to pretty much eliminate the problem. |
Originally Posted by jayc72
(Post 248751)
R-Compounds aren't very effective for drag racing. The sidewalls are WAY too stiff and most don't have a lot of stick unless they are hot. You'd probably be better off with streets running low PSI.
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Originally Posted by reddroptop
(Post 248750)
Don't you mean full SOFT?
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Brian, can you think of anyone's build specifically? Having a hard time searching for it, but the m.net server seems to be going on and offline.
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Originally Posted by bripab007
(Post 248780)
Installing a larger diff. won't solve wheelhop, and that needs to be eradicated.
You all need to look at some of the V8-swap Miata guys and what they've done to reduce/eliminate wheelhop. A few of them have fabricated longitudinal links that connect the lower rear A-arms to the frame rails, and that seems to pretty much eliminate the problem. |
Originally Posted by jayc72
(Post 248751)
R-Compounds aren't very effective for drag racing. The sidewalls are WAY too stiff and most don't have a lot of stick unless they are hot. You'd probably be better off with streets running low PSI.
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Originally Posted by jayc72
(Post 248751)
R-Compounds aren't very effective for drag racing. The sidewalls are WAY too stiff and most don't have a lot of stick unless they are hot. You'd probably be better off with streets running low PSI.
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I think he was thinking, as am I, that softer sidewalls and less air pressure would limit the wheel hop which is speculated to be the killer here, not traction.
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Originally Posted by Ben
(Post 248789)
Brian, can you think of anyone's build specifically? Having a hard time searching for it, but the m.net server seems to be going on and offline.
Al Cooper was the first I remember seeing, but it looks like the pics are all broken on his cardomain site: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/291686/3 He does talk about it in post #4 here: http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread...oper+wheel+hop There's one other I've seen, but I can't think of the guy's name. I'll post when I find more. |
Originally Posted by bripab007
(Post 249044)
Yes, V8Nutz's is probably the nicest example, as I recall: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/398122/3
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