Just don't give me shit when I start a build thread please!
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Originally Posted by PHEOX
(Post 1041676)
Just don't give me shit when I start a build thread please!
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Originally Posted by supercooper
(Post 1041678)
Nobody will give you shit on your build... Unless you do exactly everything that you shouldnt do, and expect amazing results. lol
No. I won't be doing that. No dorifto either. |
Originally Posted by PHEOX
(Post 1041676)
Just don't give me shit when I start a build thread please!
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Originally Posted by concealer404
(Post 1041682)
Do you want to play the Rape Game?
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You're already not playing it right.
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Originally Posted by concealer404
(Post 1041690)
You're already not playing it right.
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Originally Posted by PHEOX
(Post 1041696)
I figured. Oh well, live and get raped.
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:fawk: Okay, I get it now. I knew I had heard it somewhere.
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Well now that my clever analogy has been missed, butchered, and is now a good half page away from the post in which it would have made sense underneath....
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Originally Posted by Sam TII
(Post 1041545)
Yes, this is totally doable if the rotary is NA. I'd totally rock a three rotor NA, even in a daily car and expect it to be dead nuts reliable. The formula Mazda guys can go several seasons without a rebuild. It's when you add boost and try to make it fun that it sucks. If you had something small and light enough that a two rotor NA would do the job, more power to you. Only trouble is, a built NA rotary is a thirsty beast, expect mileage in the low teens at best which makes it a poor candidate for daily use but tons of reliable (and fairly cheap) fun on the track.
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Originally Posted by NA6C-Guy
(Post 1041792)
Agreed. While I didn't find a turbo rotary THAT unreliable, an n/a rotary is so much more reliable. My favorite cars I've ever owned have been my FB n/a rotaries. My black '83 with the Mikuni 44mm carbs and RB full street port exhaust was the best sounding car I've ever owned, and the most responsive and most fun car I've had. Plus it was a fucking breeze to work on, with all emissions stripped off. It literally had 2 or 3 lines, and less than half a dozen connectors, then two nuts on the engine mounts and the engine was ready to come out. Diagnosing any issues it did have was simple. I miss that car so much. Unfortunately I could never get a title for it, and had to scrap it.
Agreed, FBs are rad, never had one to call my own though, just driven friends. |
Originally Posted by Sam TII
(Post 1041800)
My turbo FC with basic mods was super reliable, I was talking mainly about FDs.
Agreed, FBs are rad, never had one to call my own though, just driven friends. |
Originally Posted by NA6C-Guy
(Post 1041805)
The only reason my Turbo II was ever unreliable was how butchered the engine electrical and emissions were. There is no other car like the FB to me. A properly built, carbed FB is my ideal everything car. Daily, fun weekend, occasional track, whatever.
I've heard of the handling on the FB being similar to a miata feel-wise, but the miata has more potential and "better" handling overall. |
You'll want to do something about the steering on an FB. Seriously the worst thing about those cars, and something that ruins the whole thing for me.
HERP DERP RAW SPORTS CAR WITH RECIRCULATING BALL STEERING BOX. |
Originally Posted by Fireindc
(Post 1041930)
I think if i ever decide to try a rotary, a FB would be for me. One with a nice n/a 13b swap, or one of the rare models that came with that motor. Sounds like fun.
I've heard of the handling on the FB being similar to a miata feel-wise, but the miata has more potential and "better" handling overall.
Originally Posted by concealer404
(Post 1041931)
You'll want to do something about the steering on an FB. Seriously the worst thing about those cars, and something that ruins the whole thing for me.
HERP DERP RAW SPORTS CAR WITH RECIRCULATING BALL STEERING BOX. On a related note, I wish now that I had kept all of my 12A parts to build a nice streetport carbed engine, just to have for when the time comes to buy my next FB. I will own another one day. I sold all of the parts for a pretty nice chunk of change though. About $800 for the old housings and rotors alone, plus $400 for a 15 year old rusted out RB exhaust. I only paid like $1200 for the whole car several years before that. So I got some fun out of it, and made a little profit. |
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